Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone |
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| Authors: | Y H Zheng Y M Shen X G Wu Y G You |
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| Institution: | a Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Guangzhou 510070, People's Republic of China;b State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, People's Republic of China |
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| Abstract: | Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography. |
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| Keywords: | Wave energy dissipation Water waves Breaking wave height Numerical simulation |
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