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Suspended sediment transport in the swash zone of a dissipative beach
Institution:1. Faculty of Civil Engineering, Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, 81310 Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia;2. Coastal and Offshore Engineering Institute (COEI), Universiti Teknologi Malaysia Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Semarak, 54100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia;3. School of Marine Science and Technology (Faculty of Science and Technology), University of Plymouth, Drake Circus, PL4 8AA Plymouth, United Kingdom;4. Centro de Investigación Científica y Educación Superior de Ensenada (CICESE), Carretera Ensenada-Tijuana No. 3918, Zona Playitas, C.P. 22860 Ensenada, B.C. México;1. Laboratori d''Enginyeria Marítima, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, Barcelona, Spain;2. Fluid Mechanics Section, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Imperial College London, London, UK;1. School of Geography and Environmental Sciences, Ulster University, Coleraine, Northern Ireland, United Kingdom;2. School of Geosciences, The University of Sydney, Sydney, NSW, Australia
Abstract:Simultaneous high frequency field measurements of water depth, flow velocity and suspended sediment concentration were made at three fixed locations across the high tide swash and inner surf zones of a dissipative beach. The dominant period of the swash motion was 30–50 s and the results are representative of infragravity swash motion. Suspended sediment concentrations, loads and transport rates in the swash zone were almost one order of magnitude greater than in the inner surf zone. The vertical velocity gradient near the bed and the resulting bed shear stress at the start of the uprush was significantly larger than that at the end of the backwash, despite similar flow velocities. This suggests that the bed friction during the uprush was approximately twice that during the backwash.The suspended sediment profile in the swash zone can be described reasonably well by an exponential shape with a mixing length scale of 0.02–0.03 m. The suspended sediment transport flux measured in the swash zone was related to the bed shear stress through the Shields parameter. If the bed shear stress is derived from the vertical velocity gradient, the proportionality coefficient between shear stress and sediment transport rate is similar for the uprush and the backwash. If the bed shear stress is estimated using the free-stream flow velocity and a constant friction factor, the proportionality factor for the uprush is approximately twice that of the backwash. It is suggested that the uprush is a more efficient transporter of sediment than the backwash, because the larger friction factor during the uprush causes larger bed shear stresses for a given free-stream velocity. This increased transport competency of the uprush is necessary for maintaining the beach, otherwise the comparable strength and greater duration of the backwash would progressively remove sediment from the beach.
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