Morphological characteristics and medium-term evolution of the beaches between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco) |
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Authors: | G Anfuso J A Martínez del Pozo D Nachite J Benavente A Macias |
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Institution: | (1) Dpto de Ciencias de la Tierra, Facultad de Ciencias del Mar y Ambientales, Universidad de Cádiz, Polígono Río San Pedro s/n, 11510 Puerto Real (Cadiz), Spain;(2) UFR “Sciences de la Mer”, Laboratoire d’Océanographie Appliquée, Fac. Sciences, 93000 Tetuan, Morocco;(3) área de Análisis Geográfico Regional, Facultad de Ciencias del Mary Ambientales, Universidad de Cádiz, Polígono Río San Pedro s/n, 11510 Puerto Real (Cadiz), Spain |
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Abstract: | This work presents the results of a combined study on the beach morphology and the evolution at short- and medium-term of
the littoral between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco). It is an interesting sector showing a great increase of human occupation
and coastal structures. The monitoring program allowed for the reconstruction of the beach morphological behavior and the
seasonal changes. The studied beaches presented reflective profiles recording little seasonality, with the most notable morphological
changes being strictly related to storms. Surf Similarity and Surf Scaling parameters highlighted the existence of intermediate
and reflective beach states, characterized by plunging breakers. Aerial photographs and a satellite image have been geo-referenced
and elaborated with GIS tools to reconstruct the short- and medium-term evolution of the littoral and the sediment transport
pathways. The littoral showed important erosion at short- and medium-term related to a negative sedimentary budget because
of offshore transport. Sand accumulation was recorded close to the main ports, i.e., Marina Smir and Marina Kabila. These
port structures constituted impermeable, fixed limits, which divided the studied area into littoral cells. Other free, transit
limits were also observed. |
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Keywords: | Beach volume Port Littoral cell GIS Morocco |
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