Onshore/offshore wind influence on breaking waves: An empirical study

Beach based and in-situ observations of plunging and spilling breakers, with associated localised wind data, have isolated important characteristics regarding breaking waves in the surf zone. Offshore winds enhance the development of plunging breakers; onshore winds, the development of spilling breakers. Extremely strong offshore, or onshore winds, may re-introduce more spilling or plunging breaker-type characteristics, respectively.