基于实测数据的台湾海峡中部波浪特征分析 *

利用台湾海峡中部2号大浮标2017年全年的实测波浪资料, 对海浪的基本波要素及其与风的相关性、波谱特性进行统计分析, 得出了重要特征波参数之间的回归关系和适合台湾海峡中部的海浪谱形式。研究结果显示: 1) 台湾海峡中部的常浪向是NE向, 强浪向是NNE向, 月均有效波高的变化范围为0.87~2.98m, 7月波高最小, 12月波高最大, 波周期与波高有着相似的月际变化趋势; 2) 主要波浪类型是以风浪为主的混合浪, 谱型上以单峰为主, 波高与风速整体上呈正相关关系, 大浪主要由台风和强劲的东北季风引起; 3) 波浪的平均周期与大部分特征波周期之间具有良好的线性相关性, NNE、NE方向的波浪有效波高和有效波周期线性相关性较强; 4) 相比于Jonswap谱, 规范谱一是更符合本区域的海浪谱模式, 给出了基于有效波高和谱峰周期拟合的规范谱一形式。这些研究成果可为海洋工程设计和波浪数值模拟提供参考。

Analysis of Wave Characteristics in the Central Taiwan Strait Based on Measured Data

Using the measured wave data in 2017 in the central Taiwan Strait, we analyze the basic features of wave, including spectral features, and their relationships with wind. The regression relationship among important characteristic wave parameters and the appropriate wave spectrum form are also investigated. The results are as follows. 1) The most frequently occurring wave direction is NE, and the strong wave direction is NNE. The monthly average significant wave height varies from 0.87 to 2.98 m. The wave height is the smallest in July and the highest in December. The wave period has similar inter-month change to wave height. 2) Mixed waves dominated by wind wave and single-peaked spectra make up the majority. The wave height is positively correlated with the wind speed as a whole. Strong wave is mainly generated by typhoons and strong northeast monsoon. 3) There are good linear correlations between mean wave period and most characteristic period parameters. The significant wave height and its corresponding wave period are strongly linearly related in the directions of NNE and NE. 4) Compared with the Jonswap spectrum, the Code spectrum 1 is more reasonable for the fitting of sea wave spectrum in this area. A spectrum in the form of Code spectrum 1 is given, which is fitted by significant wave height and spectral peak period. These results can provide references for ocean engineering design and numerical simulation of wave.