| Approach to Calculating Methods of Wave Breaking Depth and Height |
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| 作者单位： | Wang Liang
Du Heng Lecturer，Hohai University，Nanjing 210024 Engineer，Jiangsu Communication Planning and Design Institute，Nanjing 210005 |
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| 摘 要： | - Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enumerated, the laws of wave transformation before and after wave breaking are investigated, an adequate supposition is made, and the effect of beach slope, bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered. By applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate and combining with proper formulas of solitary waves, a new calculating formula of wave breaking depth and height on the movable bed is derived and examined with the data from experimental pools of different sizes, and it is proved to be of practicability.
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Approach to Calculating Methods of Wave Breaking Depth and Height |
| |
| Authors: | Wang Liang
Du Heng Lecturer Hohai University Nanjing Engineer Jiangsu Communication Planning and Design Institute Nanjing |
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| Institution: | Wang Liang
Du Heng Lecturer,Hohai University,Nanjing 210024 Engineer,Jiangsu Communication Planning and Design Institute,Nanjing 210005 |
| |
| Abstract: | - Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enumerated, the laws of wave transformation before and after wave breaking are investigated, an adequate supposition is made, and the effect of beach slope, bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered. By applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate and combining with proper formulas of solitary waves, a new calculating formula of wave breaking depth and height on the movable bed is derived and examined with the data from experimental pools of different sizes, and it is proved to be of practicability. |
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| Keywords: | wave breaking breaking depth breaking height calculating method wave energy dissipation rate |
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