Breaking Criteria for Regular Waves on Gentle Slopes |
| |
| Authors: | LI Yucheng GUI Lifang
YU Yang TENG Bing Professor Ph D Student Supervisor the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian P R China
Graduate Student Dalian University of Technology Dalian P R China
Ph D Candidate Dalian University of Technology Dalian P R China |
| |
| Institution: | LI Yucheng GUI Lifang
YU Yang TENG Bing Professor,Ph. D. Student Supervisor,the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,P. R. China
Graduate Student,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,P. R. China
Ph. D. Candidate,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,P. R. China |
| |
| Abstract: | Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion (H/d)b for gentle slopes (i < 1/100) , in which H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point, is smaller than that for beach slopes of i > 1 /100 , i. e., the value of (H/ d) b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6. Goda indicated that the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study, so it should be also correct and can be used for gentle beaches, i. e., the value of (H/d)b for gentle slopes may be still larger than 0.7. By use of high order nonlinear wave theory, this problem is analyzed in this study and the reason why there is a large difference between different studies is explained. Moreover, the bottom energy loss during wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed. |
| |
| Keywords: | wave beach slope breaking |
| 本文献已被 CNKI 等数据库收录！ |
| 点击此处可从《中国海洋工程》浏览原始摘要信息 |
| 点击此处可从《中国海洋工程》下载免费的PDF全文 |
|
