Profiles of fully developed (Airy) waves in different water depths |
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Authors: | JP Le Roux |
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Institution: | Departamento de Geología, Facultad de Ciencias Físicas y Matemáticas, Universidad de Chile, Casilla 13518, Correo 21, Santiago, Chile |
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Abstract: | Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t, given by η(x,t) = (Ho/2) cos2πx/Lo − 2πt/Tw], where Ho is the deepwater height, Lo is the deepwater wavelength, and Tw is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height, wave shape, and displacement of the water surface with respect to the still water level for any water depth. |
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Keywords: | Airy waves Stokes waves Cnoidal waves Wave profile |
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