浙江中部三门湾波浪特征统计分析

为了研究浙江中部三门湾海域的波浪特征，本文基于AWAC波浪观测仪在该海域进行了连续1年的观测，对观测得到的波浪参数进行了统计分析、线性回归分析，同时研究分析了三门湾海域受台风影响时，波浪参数和波浪谱的变化情况，探讨了波浪变化的原因。研究表明，三门湾海域常浪向和强浪向均为E向，地形是主导因素；显著波高绝大部分在0.8 m以下，期间的最大波高为2.71 m；该海域的波浪特征分布是一个比较典型的瑞利分布；台风“泰利”期间波能谱以双峰为主，外海涌浪和研究海域风区内的风浪形成混合浪，其中0.08 Hz左右的低频涌浪成分占比很大，而0.25 Hz左右的高频风浪成分占比较小。本文的研究工作为沿海海洋工程结构物的设计建造以及防灾减灾提供重要参考依据。

Statistical analysis on wave characteristics in the Sanmen Bay of Zhejiang middle coast

In order to study the wave characteristics in the Sanmen Bay,field observation based on AWAC data acquisition equipment was continued for one year,and the statistical analysis,linear regression analysis was done.Moreover,statistics and spectral variations of waves during the typhoon occurrence were investigated,and the reason for the variations was determined on the basis of wave data collected.The results show that the dominant wave direction and the strong wave direction are both E due to the topography of coastal areas;during the wave observation period,H1/10 is mainly under 0.8 m,and Hmax is 2.71 m;the distribution of wave characteristics is a typical Rayleigh distribution in this region;the wave spectra estimated during Typhoon Talim is double-peaked,and the total wave is a combination of swell and wind sea,when the low frequency swell about 0.08 Hz is in a dominant position and the high frequency wind sea about 0.25 Hz is relatively weak.This study will be important as reference in the design of offshore structures as well as for disaster prevention and mitigation.