| A nearshore wave breaking model |
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| 作者姓名： | Li Shaowu Wang Shangyi Tomoya Shibayama |
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| 作者单位： | Department of Water Resource and Harbor Engineering, Tianjin University, Tianjin 300072, China;Department of Water Resource and Harbor Engineering, Tianjin University, Tianjin 300072, China;Department of Civil Engineering, Engineering Faculty, Yokohama National University, Yokohama 240, Japan |
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| 摘 要： | ＡｎｅａｒｓｈｏｒｅｗａｖｅｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｍｏｄｅｌＬｉＳｈａｏｗｕ，ＷａｎｇＳｈａｎｇｙｉ，ＴｏｍｏｙａＳｈｉｂａｙａｍａ（ＲｅｃｅｉｕｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ８，１９９６；ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＦｅｂｒｕａｒｙ２６，１９９７）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ－Ａｗａｖｅｂ...
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| 关 键 词： | Boussinesq equations wave breaking eddy viscous coefficient |
| 收稿时间： | 1996/10/8 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 1997/2/26 0:00:00 |
A nearshore wave breaking model |
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| Li Shaowu,Wang Shangyi,Tomoya Shibayama.A nearshore wave breaking model[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1998,17(1):121-132. |
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| Authors: | Li Shaowu Wang Shangyi and Tomoya Shibayama |
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| Institution: | 1.Department of Water Resource and Harbor Engineering, Tianjin University, Tianjin 300072, China2.Department of Civil Engineering, Engineering Faculty, Yokohama National University, Yokohama 240, Japan |
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| Abstract: | A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking en the surf zone.The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Iioussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave.The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation.Good agreements are obtained. |
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| Keywords: | Boussinesq equations wave breaking eddy viscous coefficient |
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