Drift velocity at the wave breaking point |
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| Authors: | Hsiang Wang Tsuguo Sunamura Paul A Hwang |
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| Institution: | 1. Department of Civil Engineering and College of Marine Studies, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19711 U.S.A.;2. Institute of Geoscience, The University of Tsukuba, Ibaraki, 300-31 Japan;3. Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19711 U.S.A. |
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| Abstract: | Wave-tank studies were conducted on the measurement of the drift velocity at the breaking point under different types of breaking waves on a rigid, plane beach. The drift velocity has onshore direction near the surface and close to the bottom; in the main flow column, the drift velocity is always offshore. The offshore drift velocity shows a more uniform vertical distribution than that in the offshore region. The experimental data are compared with theoretical values of three different second-order constant-depth wave theories. Comparisons with data from other sources are also made. |
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