The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation, the following problems are analyzed in the present study:the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents, the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves, the breaking criteria of irregular waves, a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope, the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents.