Simulating nonlinear waves on the free surface in surf zones with two-dimensional sloping beach

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface in shallow water and over slopes of various geometries are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. Either linear or Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with various wave periods and sea bottom slopes in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing computational and experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.