The temporal and spatial variations in the Pacific wind and wave fields for the period 2002–2011

本文利用第三代海浪模式（WAVEWATCH III）分析了2002-2011年太平洋风速和海浪场的时空变化特征。首先，使用浮标观测数据对模式模拟的有效波高结果进行验证。结果表明模式可以有效地后报太平洋的有效波高。模式偏差较大的区域为中低纬度地区。随后将太平洋分为多个子区域，分别讨论了其风速和有效波高的时空变化特征。多年平均太平洋风速和有效波高存在类似的纬向分布特征，各子区域之间风速和有效波高的季节变化存在差别。模式刻画的太平洋有效波高年际变化最大的区域为南半球中高纬区域。进一步，我们研究了波浪能量的输入与耗散。相应的源函数项的各区域平均值显示了量化的表面波的变化。最后，对日平均的风速与有效波高值进行功率谱分析寻找序列的显著周期。结果表明有效波高时间变化对应的频谱和风速谱具有一定的差异。

The temporal and spatial variations in the Pacific wind and wave fields for the period 2002-2011

The temporal and spatial variations in the wind and wave fields in the Pacific Ocean between 2002 and 2011 are analyzed using a third-generation wave model (WAVEWATCH III). The model performance for a significant wave height is validated using in situ buoy data. The results show that the wave model effectively hindcasts the significant wave height in the Pacific Ocean, but the errors are relatively large in the mid- and low-latitude regions. The spatial distributions and temporal variations in a wind speed and the significant wave height in the Pacific Ocean are then considered after dividing the Pacific Ocean into five regions, which show meridional differences and seasonal cycles. Regional mean values are used to give yearly average time series for each separate zone. The high latitude region in the Southern Hemisphere had a stronger significant wave height trend in the model results than regions at other latitudes. The sources and sinks of wave energy are then investigated. Their regional mean values are used to quantify variations in surface waves. Finally, the spectral analyses of the daily mean wind speeds and the significant wave heights are obtained. The significant wave height and the wind speed spectra are found to be connected in some ways but also show certain differences.