Wind waves and sediment transport regime off the south-central Kerala coast,India

Wind waves in the innershelf of the south-central Kerala coast, south-west India were measured at four locations during different seasons. Simultaneously, numerical models were developed to simulate the wave and sediment transport regime of the innershelf. Strong monsoonal influence is seen in the wave characteristics with greater amplitudes, lower periods and switch-over from SW to SWW–W direction. The net annual longshore sediment transport is southerly in the innershelf and northerly in the surf zone. These counter-directional transports are linked by seasonally reversing the cross-shore transports. In the locations where the transports in the longshore and cross-shore directions are balanced, stable beaches prevail. Erosion/accretion tendency prevails in locations where these transports are not balanced. The southern and northern parts of the coast where onshore transports are predominant could be accreting zones. The erosion/accretion pattern deduced from the sediment transport model corresponds well with the long-term erosion/accretion trend for this coast.