风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较（英文）

海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在,如何进行分离风浪和涌浪一直是海浪理论研究和海洋工程应用中的重要问题。本文利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法（2D法）和三种一维谱风涌浪分离方法（PM法、WH法、JP法）进行了检验,分析发现：2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。

Comparison of spectral partitioning techniques for wind wave and swell

The ocean waves are generally mixed with wind wave and swell. In order to separate these two kinds of ocean waves, many wave spectral partitioning techniques have been proposed. In this study, a two-dimensional（2D） and three one-dimensional （1D） wave spectral partitioning techniques （denoted as PM, WH, and JP） are examined based on the model simulations and in-situ observations. It is shown that the 2D technique could provide the most reliable results as a whole. Compared with 2D technique, PM and JP techniques obviously overestimate the wind-wave components, and the same situation happens for WH technique at low wind speed. With the adjustment of the partitioning frequency ratio, the 1D PM technique is modified, in which the result agree well with that of the 2D scheme.