Impact of the four-wave quasi-resonance on freak wave shapes in the ocean

Ocean Dynamics - Two freak waves were observed a day apart in October 2009 at a 5000-m deep moored station in the northwest Pacific Ocean. As the typhoon passed by, the wave system transitioned...     

A three-dimensional numerical study of river plume mixing processes in Otsuchi Bay,Japan

The three-dimensional numerical model SUNTANS is applied to investigate river plume mixing in Otsuchi Bay, an estuary located along the Sanriku Coast of Iwate, Japan. Results from numerical simulations with different idealized forcing scenarios (barotropic tide, baroclinic tide, and diurnal wind) are compared with field observations to diagnose dominant mixing mechanisms. Under the influence of combined barotropic, baroclinic and wind forcing, the model reproduces observed salinity profiles well and achieves a skill score of 0.94. In addition, the model forced by baroclinic internal tides reproduces observed cold-water intrusions in the bay, and barotropic tidal forcing reproduces observed salt wedge dynamics near the river mouths. Near these river mouths, vertically sheared flows are generated due to the interaction of river discharge and tidal elevations. River plume mixing is quantified using vertical salt flux and reveals that mixing near the vicinity of the river mouth, is primarily generated by the barotropic tidal forcing. A 10 ms^?1 strong diurnal breeze compared to a 5 ms^?1 weak breeze generates higher mixing in the bay. In contrast to the barotropic forcing, internal tidal (baroclinic) effects are the dominant mixing mechanisms away from the river mouths, particularly in the middle of the bay, where a narrow channel strengthens the flow speed. The mixing structure is horizontally asymmetric, with the middle and northern parts exhibiting stronger mixing than the southern part of the bay. This study identifies several mixing hot-spots within the bay and is of great importance for the coastal aquaculture system.     

Development of waves under explosive cyclones in the Northwestern Pacific

The development of ocean waves under explosive cyclones (ECs) is investigated in the Northwestern Pacific Ocean using a hindcast wave simulation around Japan during the period 1994 through 2014. A composite analysis of the ocean wave fields under ECs is used to investigate how the spatial patterns of the spectral wave parameters develop over time. Using dual criteria of a drop in sea level pressure below 980 hPa at the center of a cyclone and a decrease of at least 12 hPa over a 12-h period, ECs are identified in atmospheric reanalysis data. Two areas under an EC were identified with narrow directional spectra: the cold side of a warm front and the right-hand side of an EC (relative to the propagating direction). Because ECs are associated with atmospheric fronts, ocean waves develop very differently under ECs than they do under tropical cyclones. Moreover, ECs evolve very rapidly such that the development of the ocean wave field lags behind the peak wind speed by hours. In a case study of an EC that occurred in January 2013, the wave spectrum indicates that a warm front played a critical role in generating distinct ocean wave systems in the warm and cold zones along the warm front. Both the warm and cold zones have narrow directional and frequency spectra. In contrast, the ocean wave field in the third quadrant (rear left area relative to the propagation direction) of the EC is composed of swell and wind sea systems propagating in different directions.     

Predictability of storm wave heights in the ice-free Beaufort Sea

A predictability study on wave forecast of the Arctic Ocean is necessary to help identify hazardous areas and ensure sustainable shipping along the trans-Arctic routes. To assist with validation of the Arctic Ocean wave model, two drifting wave buoys were deployed off Point Barrow, Alaska for two months in September 2016. Both buoys measured significant wave heights exceeding 4 m during two different storm events on 19 September and 22 October. The NOAA-WAVEWATCH III^? model with 16-km resolution was forced using wind and sea ice reanalysis data and obtained general agreement with the observation. The September storm was reproduced well; however, model accuracy deteriorated in October with a negative wave height bias of around 1 m during the October storm. Utilising reanalysis data, including the most up-to-date ERA5, this study investigated the cause: grid resolution, wind and ice forcing, and in situ sea level pressure observations assimilated for reanalysis. The analysis has found that there is a 20% reduction of in situ SLP observations in the area of interest, presumably due to fewer ships and deployment options during the sea ice advance period. The 63-member atmospheric ensemble reanalysis, ALERA2, has shown that this led to a larger ensemble spread in the October monthly mean wind field compared to September. Since atmospheric physics is complex during sea ice advance, it is speculated that the elevated uncertainty of synoptic-scale wind caused the negative wave model bias. This has implications for wave hindcasts and forecasts in the Arctic Ocean.