Two-phase hydrodynamic and sediment transport modeling of wave-generated sheet flow

This numerical investigation was carried out to advance mechanistic understanding of sediment transport under sheet flow conditions. An Euler–Euler coupled two-phase flow model was developed to simulate fluid–sediment oscillatory sheet flow. Since the concentration of sediment particles is high in such flows, the kinematics of the fluid and sediment phases are strongly coupled. This model includes interaction forces, intergranular stresses and turbulent stress closure. Each phase was modeled via the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes equations, with interphase momentum conservation accounting for the interaction between the phases. The generation and transformation of turbulence was modeled using the two-equation k–ε$k''–''\epsilon$ turbulence model. Concentration and sediment flux profiles were compared with experimental data for sheet flow conditions considering both symmetric and asymmetric oscillatory flows. Sediment and fluid velocity variations, concentration profiles, sediment flux and turbulence parameters of wave-generated sheet flow were studied numerically with a focus on sediment transport characteristics. In all applications, the model predictions compared well with the experimental data. Unlike previous investigations in which the flow is driven by a horizontal pressure gradient, the present model solves the Navier–Stokes equations under propagating waves. The model’s ability to predict sediment transport under oscillatory sheet flow conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology.     

Geoid Determination through Ellipsoidal Stokes Boundary-Value Problem

Martinec and Grafarend (1997) have shown how the construction of Green's function in the Stokes boundary-value problem with gravity data distributed on an ellipsoid of revolution is approached in the O(e ₀ ² )-approximation. They have also expressed the ellipsoidal Stokes function describing the effect of ellipticity of the boundary as a finite sum of elementary functions. We present an effective method of avoiding the singularity of spherical and the ellipsoidal Stokes functions, and also an analytical expression for the ellipsoidal Stokes integral around the computational point suitable for numerical solution. We give the numerical results of solving the ellipsoidal Stokes boundary-value problem and their difference with respect to the spherical Stoke boundary-value problem.     

随机波浪下斯托克司漂移速度是否引起水面漂移物离散的研究

漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究（以Herterich和Hasselmann（1982）为代表）普遍认为，随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散，这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知，随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量，因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪（P-M谱）作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。     

四种改进积分法的低空扰动引力计算

针对Stokes积分方法计算扰动引力中计算点从空中趋近地面时存在积分奇异和不连续的问题,该文提出了去中央奇异点法、奇异点积分值修正法、中央格网加密算法和改进积分式法4种改进Stokes积分的计算公式,并进行了实验计算。计算结果表明:近地空间范围内,4种改进算法都能在一定程度上改进原始积分的奇异性问题;相同条件下,奇异点积分值修正法和改进积分式法计算精度最高,适宜于低空计算;改进积分式法通过理论推导,得到了从球外部到球面统一、连续且无奇异的改进Stokes积分公式,理论严谨。     

Nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves

This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea.     

二维情况下波浪对潮流场作用的数值分析

波浪和潮流是近岸地区主要的动力因素,两者之间存在着复杂的相互作用.波浪与潮流在时间尺度、空间尺度上都有很大的差别,因此现阶段对于波流相互作用的研究主要采用两种不同的概化方法.第一种方法是把周期变化的潮流概化成具有某一特征的海流叠加到波浪运动方程中去,用来模拟波流运动结构在短时间内所发生的变化.对于波浪来说,海流的作用既有动力学影响又有运动学的影响,在运动学方面,包括水深和海流对波浪频散关系的影响,另外还有由于顺流或逆流引起的波长的变化;在动力学方面,海流会引起波浪波高的变化;另一种方法是把波浪过程概化为在潮周期中具有平均意义的波浪要素叠加到潮流运动方程中,用来计算波浪对流的运动状态的影响,主要着眼于波浪和潮流对于泥沙的输运研究.     

Modelling of run up of steep non-breaking waves

A Navier–Stokes solver is used to examine steep waves as they run up a steep beach (10.54°). The volume of fluid method (VOF) is used to model the free surface. Comparison with experimental results shows reasonable overall agreement in the prediction of the free-surface, velocities and accelerations within the flow. A spurious feature at the free-surface was found which does reduce the quality of the results. For a steep wave we see the transition from a steep wave front to a smooth run-up tongue at the beach that is in qualitative agreement with experiment.