“平均位置”法在波高观测中的应用

一、引言SBA1-2型岸用光学测波仪是海滨测站从事波浪观测的常规仪器(二型测波仪),它是在HAB-1(一型测波仪)改型基础上研制生产的。经过改型,克服了一型仪在分划板设计上采用等高逐步刻度法进行波高观测,随着波高的增加误差亦增大的缺点。由于在设计原理上采用了定点等高刻度刻划波高标尺,使二型仪的设计更为合理,测量精度也相应提高。但从设计原理所导出的“逐个波高计算”方法中可以看出,二型测波仪观测、计算繁索复杂,比一型的工作量增加了数倍以上,这也是当时二型仪难以推广的原因。能否找     

完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟

探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。     

数值波浪水槽消波器的改进与检验

数值波浪水槽技术是一种新兴的水波动力学数值模拟技术, 它能够实现水波现象的精确模拟。作为数值波浪水槽的一个重要功能, 消波技术被用于消除传入波浪在水槽末端的反射效应, 以防止反射波对有效实验区域的污染, 从而保证特定要求的水波实验的精确性。目前被广泛采用的消波技术可分为阻尼消波区和主动消波器两类。     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

Parameterization of Wave Breaking Probability and Whitecap Coverage

1 .Introduction Wave breaking and associated whitecapping have long beeninteresting due totheir close relationto many fields of ocean study,including air-sea interaction,remote sensing,ocean engineering,aswell as wave dynamics .The breaking probabilityBan…     

Three-dimensional numerical simulation of obfique wave action on vertical walls

A three-dimensional numerical model based on the potential theory was developed to study the oblique wave action on vertical walls. A source term inside the domain was used to generate incident waves and outgoing waves were dissipated by sponge layers and transmitted by radiation boundaries. The finite difference method was used to solve the governing equations and boundary conditions in the regular transformed domain in σ-coordinate. Satisfactory agreements between the numerical predictions and experimental results of wave force were obtained. It is concluded that the maximum wave force acting on the vertical walls is induced by the obliquely incident waves rather than the normally incident waves.     

用贝叶斯方法推算设计波高

采用长期概率预报提供波浪要素设计值是海洋工程中不可缺少的内容之一，文中介绍了一种基於贝叶斯原理的新计算方法，它较传统统计方法有明显的优越性，不仅可以通过补充新信息不断修正原有的估算结果，而且可以避免传统方法带来诸多不确定性，文中以北海中部百年一遇设计波高为例进行了计算。     

任意截面大尺度垂直柱体的波浪力和水动作用力

许多海洋工程结构物和水工结构物,如海上贮油罐、各种支墩等,具有等截面柱状体外形,或在足够精确的工程近似意义上可视为这类柱体。它们的下端固置于水底,上端穿透水面,它们的波浪载荷是设计中的一个重要考虑因素;在许多场合,它们与周围流体的耦联振动也是相当重要的。对大尺度结构物而言,我们可在势流理论的范围内求解这一问题。通用的三维源汇分布法无疑是适用的,但对这类特殊的结构形式显得极不经济。     

连云港南部近岸冲淤变化分析

选取连云港南部近岸带南北不同岸滩4个典型断面的样品点进行主成分分析，得出研究区控制泥沙交换和冲淤变化的主要动力因素为潮流作用和潮流波浪混合作用，据此，尝试建立冲淤变化的协方差数学模型，经过对计算结果显著性分析和实证检验得出研究区域的冲淤趋势为、整体冲淤平衡，局部略有冲刷”，从北到南，依次出现淤积平衡，冲淤平衡，冲刷平衡三种较为稳定的自然冲淤环境。