渤海的潮波系统及其变迁

采用二维非线性潮波微分方程对渤海M_2、S_2、K_1、O_1四个分潮进行数值模拟,得出四个分潮的潮波图,椭圆长短轴图,同潮流时图以及潮汐、潮流性质图和S_2与M_2、K_1与O_1的迟角差图。依此可以系统地了解渤海潮波系统的分布变化规律。依据30～40年代测得的渤海海图以及假设数十年后渤海的岸形对渤海进行数值模拟,从而了解过去和现在渤海潮波的变化情况,以及对未来潮波的变化作出判断。计算表明,从30年代到70年代以来,渤海南部的半日分潮波发生了很大的变化,而日分潮的潮波变化较小。     

龙口平均海平面变化原因的研究

本文通过对实测海平面高度的对比，发现龙口平均海平面从１９９１年起有明显的升高趋势。作者猜测此乃龙口在码头扩建后有系统下沉所致。     

江苏岸外条子泥二分水滩脊的沉积特征

2000年1月16日在江苏岸外条子泥沙洲二分水滩脊选取三条断面，进行底质沉积物采样及滩面高程测量。共采集样品27个，对其用激光粒度仪进行粒度分析，发现沉积物的粒度参数、粒度组分及其分布均具有一定的变化规律，且与滩面高程变化具有很好的相关性。     

ECOM模式在丁字湾的应用

应用河口、陆架和海洋模式 (ECOM模型 ) ,引入干湿网格法模拟潮滩涨落的改进 ,并建立丁字湾及近岸海域的三维变动边界潮流模型。该模型考虑了湾口拦门沙、湾内水道和人工围海等地形特点。计算结果与实测值比较符合良好 ,较好地刻画出丁字湾 M2 分潮潮流场的时空分布特点。     

渤海海峡断面温度结构及流量的季节变化

作者采用 POM模式 ,利用从卫星遥感资料反演的风和海表温度 (SST)数据并考虑 M2分潮作用 ,对渤海海域的温度、流场的三维结构进行数值计算。根据数值模式的计算结果 ,重点分析渤海海峡温度结构和水交换的季节变化特征。结果表明风应力和 SST的季节性变化导致渤海海峡的水交换流型、温度结构和流量有明显的季节性变化。     

Two-Dimensional Mathematical Model of Tidal Current and Sediment for Oujiang Estnary and Wenzhou Bay

A 2-D mathematical model of tidal current and sediment has been developed for the Oujiang Estuary and the WenzhouBay. This model accomodates complicated features including multiple islands, existence of turbidity, and significant differ-ence in size distribution of bed material. The governing equations for non-uniform suspended load and bed load transport arepresented in a boundary-fitted orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system. The numerical solution procedures along with theirinitial conditions, boundary conditions, and movable boundary technique are presented. Strategies for computation of thecritical condition of deposition or erosion, sediment transport capacity, non-uniform bed load discharge, etc. are suggested.The model verification computation shows that, the tidal levels computed from the model are in good agreement with the fielddata at the 18 tidal gauge stations. The computed velocities and flow directions also agree well with the values measuredalong the totally 52 synchronously observed verticals distributed over 8 cross sections. The computed tidal water throughputsthrough the Huangda‘ao cross section are close to the measured data. And the computed values of bed deformation fromYangfushan to the estuary outfall and in the outer-sea area are in good agreement with the data observed from 1986 to 1992.The changes of tidal volumes through the estuary, velocities in different channels and the bed form due to the influence of thereclamation project on the Wenzhou shoal are predicted by means of this model.     

Sea-level fluctuations in a coastal lagoon

Sea-level observations made during December, 1979, at six stations in Great South Bay (which is a coastal lagoon on the south shore of Long Island, New York) reveal that there were significant subtidal fluctuations in addition to the tidal oscillations. Harmonic analysis of the tidal oscillations of sea level indicates that M₂ is the dominant tidal constituent. The M₂ amplitude, however, suffered a more than 50% reduction in the interior of the Bay due largely to the narrow inlet. The subtidal sea level fluctuations within the Bay were forced primarily by the low-frequency fluctuations of the adjacent shelf water. The active subtidal exchange induced by this Bay-shelf coupling appeared to have suffered only minor attenuation within the Bay. As a consequence, the variance associated with subtidal sea level fluctuations was greater than that associated with the tidal oscillations over most of Great South Bay.     

Implementation of High Resolution Tidal Current Fields in Electronic Navigational Chart Systems

A system for displaying tidal currents in an electronic chart display and information system (ECDIS) has been developed and implemented in compliance with the standards of the International Hydrographic Organization (IHO). The tidal current fields can be displayed in real time on the electronic navigational chart and several options and functions for updating and zooming have been designed. The current fields are calculated from a data base with the harmonic constants for the four major tidal constituents. The harmonic constants are obtained from a high resolution numerical model with horizontal grid resolution of 100 m. The model is validated by comparing with sea level and current measurements. The depth matrix for the central part of the model domain was calculated from data from multibeam bathymetric surveys. An application example of the implementation is given for Trondheimsleia, a part of the main sailing route along the western coast of Norway.     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.     

海南岛海岸环境特征

海南岛虱热带季风岛屿型气候，为南海大陆架岛屿，中央为山地，临海为多种类型海岸，以处于动态平衡的海蚀-海积型海岸为主。海南岛主要是基岩岬湾海岸，潮汐属日潮型，东部与南部为不规则日潮混合潮。海岸构造运动与气候变化的双重影响，更新世初期，海岸属基岩港湾型，晚更新世构造运动频敏，使不少海湾底部抬升为阶地。构造抬升运动持续到全新世，使一些珊瑚抬升为高出海面数米的阶地。海岸类型按其成因与形态可分为两大类：基岩港湾海岸与砂砾质平原海岸。基岩港湾海岸分布于山地与丘陵临海处，砂砾质平原海岸（或为三解洲平原海岸）其表现形式多为沙坝与泻湖海岸，沙坝上叠置发育着海滩、沙堤或沙丘，随着海岸加积展宽或地壳上升，老的沙坝可抬高成为海积阶地。潮流作用对洪湾众多的海南岛的发育演变以及开发利用亦有重要作用。潮汐汊道港湾规模较大，水域面积达数十平方公理。