Nonlinear progressive waves in water of finite depth — an analytic approximation

An analytical solution using homotopy analysis method is developed to describe the nonlinear progressive waves in water of finite depth. The velocity potential of the wave is expressed by Fourier series and the nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are satisfied by continuous mapping. Unlike the perturbation method, the present approach is not dependent on small parameters. Thus solutions are possible for steep waves. Furthermore, a significant improvement of the convergence rate and region is achieved by applying Homotopy-Padé Approximants. The calculated wave characteristics of the present solution agree well with previous numerical and experimental results.     

局地凝结加热对大气赤道波动稳定性的影响(英文)

利用β平面上大气斜压强迫模式,探讨了局地海表温度异常所造成的非绝热加热影响的赤道小振幅“拦截波”的稳定性。指出当加热函数是半余弦形式时,在加热区大气的反应是局地性的,但这个加热函数的小扰动能产生非局地性的大尺度反应。平均海表温度降低了赤道波动的稳定性。当稍超过临界值时,小尺度海表温度异常有可能使波动不稳定。     

Nonlinear Dynamic Analysis of Flexible Marine-Risers

A nonlinear dynamic analysis model is estabilished on the basis of "lumped mass" approach, which takes the influence of the fluid flow within the pipe into consideration. Numerical results are compared with the published works, and the effects of internal fluid flow, internal pressure, dyanmics as well as the nonlinear characteristics on the behavior of flexible risers are discussed. From this work, some useful conclusions are drawn.     

Maxima for Gaussian seas

The probability distribution of the height of global maximum for a Gaussian random field evolving in time is studied. In particular, the effect of spreading is studied and the role of the wave kinematics is discussed. It is observed that taking into account time dynamics of spatial characteristics results in distributions different from those obtained for the static case. The results are illustrated by computing the derived distribution for different Gaussian seas for three distinct sampling schemes. The resulting distributions are also used to compute return periods for rogue waves.     

Numerical Simulation of Freak Waves Based on the Four-Order Nonlinear Schroelinger Equation

A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schoedinger （NKS） equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is perforated by changing sideband condi- tions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed.     

Influence of Coupled Rossby Waves on Primary Productivity and Tuna Abundance in the Indian Ocean

Interannual coupled Rossby waves in the extratropical Indian Ocean propagate westward in covarying pycnocline depth, sea surface temperature, and meridional surface wind anomalies from the west coast of Australia between 15°S and 35°S, taking 3–4 years to transit the interior ocean to Madagascar. In the interior subtropical gyre, where the tuna longline catch (TLC) mainly concerns two species (albacore and bigeye), these waves have been observed to affect year-to-year changes in catch, with wave crests (troughs) in the main pycnocline associated with high (low) TLC anomalies. This suggested that tuna longline catch is associated with the entrainment of nutrient-rich pycnocline water into the photic zone and a subsequent increase in primary productivity there. Here, this hypothesis is examined within the context of SeaWiFS chlorophyll concentration (CC). We find the situation the opposite of that expected, with wave crests (troughs) in the main pycnocline associated with low (high) CC anomalies averaged over the photic zone. These results are shown to be consistent with a model relating the anomalous CC tendency to upper-layer divergence in the wave, not unlike that relating surface slicks to upper-layer divergence in internal gravity waves. Thus, the connection between interannual coupled Rossby waves and TLC in the interior subtropical gyre does not appear to derive from wave-induced modulation of the pelagic food web. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes

Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.     

近岸区直墙波浪力的模拟

在水槽中进行了几种不同坡度的斜坡平台上规则波作用下直墙波浪力试验，系统分析了直墙上相对最大压强和相对最大总力，给出了它们之间的比较关系。还进行了不同坡度的不规则波模型试验，并讨论了波浪力之间的特性。结果表明采用1：10、1：15的斜坡与平台相结合的试验室模拟，可得到与平底地形相近的直墙波浪力。     

Transition of Tidal Waves from the East to South China Seas over the Taiwan Strait: Influence of the Abrupt Step in the Topography

Observations of tidal waves between the East and South China Seas (ECS and SCS) over the Taiwan Strait (TS) suggest that the diurnal tides simply appear as one southward-propagating wave from the ECS to the SCS through the TS. The semidiurnal tides, however, behave differently in that they appear as a southward-propagating Kelvin wave in the western TS and a nearly standing wave in the eastern TS, and then diminish rapidly over the shallow shoal in the southern TS. A smaller-domain model, with sea-level boundary conditions derived from a larger-domain tidal model, was first used to simulate tides in the TS to an overall percentage of accuracy of about 90%. Subsequent numerical experiments and theoretical analysis revealed that the southward-propagating semidiurnal tides to be impeded and then reflected as they arrive at an abrupt, deepened step in the topography of the southern TS. This reflection enhances the amplitudes of the incident semidiurnal tides and contributes to the formation of a nearly standing wave in the eastern TS. The southward-propagating diurnal tides in the TS are connected by the diurnal tides in the northern SCS when the amplitudes of the two tide systems are comparable and their phases nearly equal at the step. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Air-Sea Interactions under the Existence of Opposing Swell

Data of a comprehensive laboratory study on the coexistent system of wind waves and opposing swell (Mitsuyasu and Yoshida, 1989) have been reanalyzed to clarify the air-sea interaction phenomena under the coexistence of wind waves and swell. It is shown that the magnitude of the decay rate of swell due to an opposing wind is almost the same as that of the growth rate of swell caused by a following wind, as measured by Mitsuyasu and Honda (1982). The decay rate is much smaller than that obtained recently by Peirson et al. (2003), but the reason for the disagreement is not clear at present. The effect of an opposing swell on wind waves is very different from that of a following swell; wind waves are intensified by an opposing swell while they are attenuated by a following one. The phenomenon contradicts the model of Phillips and Banner (1974), but the reason for this is not clear at this time. The high-frequency spectrum of wind waves shows a small increase of the spectral density. Wind shear stress increases a little due to the effect of opposing swell. The intensification of wind waves by opposing swell and the small increase of the spectral density in a high-frequency region can be attributed to the increase of wind shear stress. Such organized phenomena lead to the conclusion that the hypothesis of local equilibrium for pure wind waves (Toba, 1972) can also be satisfied for wind waves that coexist with opposing swell. The recent finding of Hanson and Phillips (1999) can be explained by this mechanism.