Modeling of the eddy viscosity by breaking waves

Breaking wave induced nearsurface turbulence has important consequences for many physical and biochemical processes including water column and nutrients mixing,heat and gases exchange across air-sea interface.The energy loss from wave breaking and the bubble plume penetration depth are estimated.As a consequence,the vertical distribution of the turbulent kinetic energy(TKE),the TKE dissipation rate and the eddy viscosity induced by wave breaking are also provided.It is indicated that model results are found to be consistent with the observational evidence that most TKE generated by wave breaking is lost within a depth of a few meters near the sea surface.High turbulence level with intensities of eddy viscosity induced by breaking is nearly four orders larger than υwl(=κuwz),the value predicted for the wall layer scaling close to the surface,where uw is the friction velocity in water,κ with 0.4 is the von Kármán constant,and z is the water depth,and the strength of the eddy viscosity depends both on wind speed and sea state,and decays rapidly through the depth.This leads to the conclusion that the breaking wave induced vertical mixing is mainly limited to the near surface layer,well above the classical values expected from the similarity theory.Deeper down,however,the effects of wave breaking on the vertical mixing become less important.     

基于MPI的LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式并行算法研究

在LAGFD-WAM海浪串行数值模式基础上,利用MPI信息传递机制实现其并行化。通过对模拟区域合理划分,对数据采取分块加载,实现了各个节点的负载平衡;通过对算法的改进实现了粗粒度计算,大幅度减少了通信量,从而提高了程序的执行效率。对串行计算和并行计算的效率比较表明,本文建立的方法能够得到较高的加速比。对全球海浪模式,加速比和CPU数目大致呈线性关系。对高分辨率的区域海浪模式,在128 CPU条件下加速比可以达到91.9。     

A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.     

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.     

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

香港附近海区台风波浪的波群统计分析

根据香港附近海区１９８５，１９８６年两次台风大浪的实测资料，以有效波高为相应水平，对波群作统计分析，得出可供海洋工程参考的波群连长、波群重复长度、波群出现频率以及波群中最大波高与有效波高的关系等。并将统计值与理论值作比较，结果表明：统计值大于“连”的理论值，而与包线理论中采用合田修正公式的汁算值相近。     

不规则波折射物理模型试验研究

作者曾发表过“不规则波折射的数学模型〔１〕。为了与数学模型的计算结果相互验证，在大连理工大学海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室进行了不规则波折射物理模型试验。试验研究结果表明：提出的“不规则波折射数学模型”对频谱采用等能量分割、对方向分布采用等间隔（Δθ＝ｃｏｓｎｔ）分割的组成波折射线性叠加法是合理的、可行的，可供港口及海岸工程规划、设计应用     

地球深部:地幔的结构和构造

地幔是位于地核和地壳之间的部分。地壳的厚度在不同的地方是不一样的 ,从洋底的数千米至大陆上某些造山区域的６０ｋｍ。地幔扩展到２９００ｋｍ的深处 ,地核的半径是３４７０ｋｍ。在科学和科普文章中常常讨论地球深部结构和地球动力学特征。有关地幔壳层结构的结论主要建立在地震Ｘ 射线立体截面照相和在高压条件下矿物改造试验资料的基础之上。地震Ｘ 射线立体截面照相（逐层的再造）确定了由地震引起的地震波速度的改变 ,揭露了深部显著的不均一性。这很好地反映在起始于中大西洋、穿过非洲直达印度洋中部的４００ｋｍ上地幔剖面中。横…     

天然气水合物的热流特征及影响因素

热流特征是研究天然气水合物的重要指标之一，不同地质环境下的天然气水合物的热流特征不尽相同。天然气水合物的热流分布主要受地壳年龄和沉积作用、地形及断裂构造和流体迁移等因素影响。     

先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻(Ⅰ).理论

根据作者导得的AfKdV方程，理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻，能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时，本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题，从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。