台风"杜鹃"影响期间福建大风天气的特点及成因

台风“杜鹃”影响期间，福建大风天气出现的比较早，而且范围比较大．本文通过对天气尺度的环境场、具有代表性的单站资料的对比分析，寻求大风出现的原因．还深入利用MM5模式对台风的气压场、风场、流场等进行数值模拟，分析结果表明台湾地形倒槽的形成对此次大风天气出现有着重要的作用，此外从流场分型的角度进一步分析台湾地形倒槽的形成原因．     

A GIS-based step-wise procedure for assessing physical exposure in fragmented archipelagos

Wind and waves are major forces affecting the geomorphology and biota in coastal areas. We present a generally applicable method for measuring and calculating fetch length, fetch direction and wave exposure. Fetch length and direction, measured by geographic information system-based methods, are used along with wind direction and wind speed data to estimate wave height and period by applying forecasting curves. The apparent power of waves approaching the shore, used as a proxy for wave exposure, is then calculated by a linear wave model. We demonstrate our method by calculating fetch lengths and wave exposure indices for five areas with varying exposure levels and types of meteorological conditions in the Finnish Archipelago Sea, situated in the northern Baltic Sea. This method is a rapid and accurate means of estimating exposure, and is especially applicable in areas with geomorphologically varying and complicated shorelines. We expect that our method will be useful in several fields, such as basic biogeographical and biodiversity research, as well as coastal land-use planning and management.     

一个基于TOPEX卫星极端海面风速预测的海洋地理信息系统

在基于 TOPEX卫星数据建立全球极端海面风速预测模型的基础上 ,开发出用于极端海面风速预测和可视化预测结果的海洋地理信息系统 (MGIS)。并论述全球极端海面风速预测的意义和 MGIS在预测过程中的重要性及必要性 ;给出全球极端海面风速预测的统计模型 ;简述极端海面风速预测海洋地理信息系统的结构、工作流程和功能 ;同时 ,对系统的预测结果进行初步分析     

Reduction of sand demand for shore protection

Beach nourishment is an environmentally preferred method of shore protection, but the annual sand requirement may lead to substantial maintenance costs. The shoreline processes, involving the surf zone, beach and dune, are reviewed with the aim of reducing the annual sand requirement of eroding shorelines. It is shown that surf zones with equilibrium profiles, on which the wave energy conversion is evenly distributed across the surf zone, from experience for given conditions indicate least loss of sand. On steep, eroding shorelines it may be difficult to establish an equilibrium profile. For such cases, the use of perched surf zones is recommended, which are supported at the seaward limit by an underwater sill. For reduction of littoral transport, the use of pervious pile groynes is recommended. These are arguably more efficient than impervious groynes. The sand loss from a usually dry beach by raised water levels is shown to be a function of the beach slope and is least when the storm waves at raised water levels do not cut an erosion escarpment. The loss of sand from a dune by infrequent severe storm tides can be prevented with the aid of a built-in membrane. These sand losses are usually large and constitute an uneconomic use of this sand resource. The proposed concepts and measures are linked to existing knowledge, augmented by data from the large wave flume (LWF) in Germany and field data from the North and Baltic Sea coasts.     

海州湾淤泥质海滩剖面堆积过程的计算模式

分别于1986年12月和1985年3月1日—1987年3月1日在海州湾进行了波浪和含沙量观测，运用所获资料以及本区长期水文、地形资料，采用流体力学、沉积学和泥沙运动力学相结合的研究方法，建立了海州湾淤泥质海滩剖面堆积过程的二维计算模式。结果表明，在堆积型淤泥质海滩，由于浮泥的经常性存在，使波浪急剧衰减，其对岸滩的作用甚为微弱，潮流成为塑造淤泥质海滩的主要动力，岸滩在淤涨过程中，在平均高潮位厂沿和平均低潮位附近出现两个凸点，上一个凸点外推速率大于下一个凸点，潮下带变化缓慢。     

南海大气低层风场的气候特征分析

分析１９８０－１９８７年欧洲中长期预报中心（ＥＣＭＷＦ）每日风场、温度场格点资料及同期南海区域测站和船舶资料，讨论南海低层风场的气候特征。南海为典型的季风活动区，冬季盛行东北季风，夏季盛行西南季风。流场的季节转换表现为季风系统的交替，相应不同的季风系统，南北温度梯度有一逆转过程，南海北部是温度梯度大且发生明显逆转的海区。１２°Ｎ以南海区气温全年变化极小，整个海区大气温度的季节变化不如流场变化快和显著。     

AEL—1型风向,风速仪

本文介绍并叙述了AEL-1型风向、风速仪的设计原理,仪器各部分的电路设计,工作过程及系统软件。该仪器适用于气象台站、工矿企业、海上浮标及科研单位等部门。     

风浪周期分布与谱宽度的关系

本文通过分析实验室风浪周期分布,发现风浪周期累积概率分布曲线低于Longuet-Higgins理论结果,在小概率周期区域实验结果与理论结果的差异明显。对实验结果进一步分析发现,在谱不是很窄时,在小概率处风浪周期累积概率随谱宽度的增大而降低,这与窄谱假定下的理论结果相反,Longuet-Higgins理论结果在小概率处不便于描述周期分布随谱宽度的变化。根据实验结果提出风浪周期的Weibull分布经验公式,Weibull分布中的参数依赖于谱宽度。     

A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves

- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.     

山西临汾盆地黄土剖面重金属分布特征及其影响因素

山西临汾盆地2条黄土剖面重金属分布特征及其影响因素研究表明,Pb、Cu和Zn的垂向变化特征非常相似,而As、Cd和Hg在剖面中的分布特征与前三者不同。各重金属元素在黄土剖面中的变化特征首先均受到黄土源区物质成分的控制,其次不同程度地受到古气候变化的影响。依据Pb、Cu、Zn与各古气候替代性指标(例如磁化率,w(SiO2)/w(Al2O3)等)均呈显著相关,As、Cd和Hg与古气候替代性指标的相关性较差,推断剖面中Cu、Pb、Zn的分布特征受古气候变化的影响,其原因可能主要是这3个金属元素易以类质同象形式赋存在磁性矿物中;而As、Cd和Hg在剖面中的分布特征与古气候无关。但各重金属元素与源区指示元素的相关性表明其在剖面中的分布特征均受黄土源区物质成分的影响和控制。