Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

带乘性噪声的一类非线性系统的滤波算法

针对带乘性噪声的一类非线性系统,给出了1种带单重渐消因子的强跟踪状态滤波算法。该算法将非线性系统线性化后,采用了线性最小方差估计方法来进行状态估计,通过运用正交原理和引入渐消因子,使得滤波效果具有强跟踪的优良性能。该算法扩展了卡尔曼滤波在带乘性噪声非线性系统状态估计中的应用范围。仿真结果表明了该算法的有效性。     

黄海冷水团演变过程及其与邻近水团关系的分析

黄海冷水团是出现在黄海的一种独特的水文现象.文中利用覆盖整个黄海的GDEM三维水温资料,结合近期一些大型调查所获得的有关观测研究结果,首先较系统地分析了黄海冷水团的形成和演变过程,并对冷水团3个冷中心的季节演变提出了一些与前不同的认识.同时,通过对黄海冷水团形成、发展和消亡与该海域温跃层演变关系的分析,进一步揭示了黄海冷水团演变的机理.然后,探讨了黄海冷水团演变过程中与青岛和仁川东南海域冷水团以及东海北部底层冷水的关系.分析表明,在黄海冷水团发展的鼎盛时期,青岛冷水团和仁川东南海域冷水团以及东海北部底层冷水皆包络其中.     

舟山群岛一次"晴天暴"过程分析

主要使用常规填图资料计算各种物理量,对一次“晴天暴”大风过程进行诊断分析,结果表明此次大风的形成机制是:在强盛的西北急流作用下,急行性干冷锋快速东移南下,形成中低层的强温度梯度和地面气压梯度,高空冷平流与地面加热共同作用,形成大的温度层结递减率,产生不稳定层结,引起垂直动量交换,因此地面出现强风。最后总结出此类大风的预报思路。     

Drag Coefficient,Dynamic Roughness and Reference Wind Speed

Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface. The parameterization of the drag coefficient of the ocean surface is simplified by referencing to wind speed at an elevation proportional to the characteristic wavelength. The dynamic roughness is analytically related to the drag coefficient. Under the assumption of fetch limited wave growth condition, various empirical functions of the dynamic roughness can be converted to equivalent expressions for comparison. For datasets covering a wide range of the dimensionless frequency (inverse wave age), it is important to account for the variable rate of wave development at different wave ages. As a result, the dependence of the Charnock parameter on wave age is nonmonotonic. Finally, the analysis presented here suggests that the significant wave steepness is a sensitive property of the ocean surface and a single variable normalization of the dynamic roughness using a wavelength or wave height parameter actually produces more robust functions than bi-variable normalizations using wave height and wave slope.     

Long-Period Distribution of Wave Heights and Its Application

This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.     

东海区近海强风预报模式

本文探讨东海区近海强风预报模式，首先介绍建立预报模式的思路和步骤，及使用说明，为了验证强风预报模式和判别条件，用１９８６、１９８７上日本传真天气图进行试报，准确和基本准确度为９１．１％，并给出了１９８９、１９９５年随船试验预报结果，准确和基本准确率为９０％以上。     

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。     

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves