Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.     

A Numerical Study on the Structure and Dynamics of Turbulence in Oscillatory Bottom Layer Flow over A Flat or Rippled Bed

1 .IntroductionUnder the influence of surface waves ,sandripples often appear on beaches . Whenthe amplitudeof water oscillationis sufficientlylarge ,vortices are formed onthe lee of every sand ripple crest . A-mongthese vortices ,the most important are t…     

Sugar and Lipid Components in Sea Foam near Kelp Beds

Abstract. A component analysis of the sugar and lipid fraction in foam layers around kelp beds on the South African west coast showed the following trends: In the residue of foam drainage of both 12 h and 120 h old foam the sugar fraction is represented by mannose (33–41 %), galactose (4–30%), fucose (3–29%) and glucose (19–26%). With the exception of fucose, the same components could be found in foam filtration. In the lipid fraction the main fatty acids are palmitic (23.3–27.3%), oleic (14.0–5.5%) and timnodonic acid (11.2–9.1%). Selacholeinic acid was only found in 12 h old foam while lignoceric acid could not be located in foam filtration. Against expectation mannitol was not identified in quantifiable amounts in foam samples although it is the dominant component of kelp mucilage, whose presence is of major importance for foam formation. Hypotheses explaining the lack of mannitol are forwarded. Component sugar and lipid content for 11 of foam was calculated and estimation of sugar and lipid content in an average foam patch (volume of 30001) is given. The importance of foam formation as a mechanism for binding and transfer of energy in the marine environment is emphasized.     

胶州湾三维变动边界的潮流数值模拟

基于Blumberg等（1986）的河口、陆架和海洋模式，引入变边界处理技术，建立了胶州湾三维变动边界的潮流模型，模型以σ-正交曲线坐标下三维非线性潮波方程为基本方程，引入2.5阶瑞封闭方程组，采用分裂算子法数值求解方程组，利用湍封闭方程求解垂直紊动粘滞系数，采用干湿网格方法模拟潮流漫滩过程，三维变动边界潮流模型计算结果与实测值吻合良好。     

水面皮层破坏-复原过程的实验室模拟研究

依据水面红外发射和红外遥感测温原理，采用HDG－高灵敏度红外测温仪和常规测量仪器相结合的方法，在实验室空气稳定条件下，模拟测得了水面皮层破坏－复原（重建）的热力过程和气－水温差对水面皮层复原过程的影响，获得了大量的测量数据。数据分析表明，当气－水温差从3．0℃变为11．5℃时，水面皮层破坏可导致皮温增量从气－水温差3．0℃时的0．15℃变到11．5℃时的0．45℃，并发现恢复时间与气－水温差呈负线性关系。     

浪流作用下系泊船舶撞击力和系缆力试验研究

以某25万吨矿石码头工程为例,分别进行了单流、单浪和浪流共同作用下,系泊船舶撞击力和系缆力试验。研究了不同水位、不同船舶载度、不同浪流夹角,单流、单浪和浪流共同作用时对船舶撞击力和系缆力的影响。分析了该码头工程护舷和缆绳的布置情况,为工程设计提供了依据。     

闽江口水动力和污染扩散数值模拟

本文建立了闽江口二维水动力、污染扩散数值模型，模型采用ＡＤＩ双向隐式求解。在水动力模拟中，对岸界的丁坝有用线性边界进行拟合，并考虑到河口区侧向摩擦作用；在污染扩散模拟中，用动态拟合的方法对浓度水边界进行了较为合理的改进。计算结果表明，本模型是成功的。     

Full-range equation for wave boundary layer thickness

Full-range equation covering all the flow regimes in a wave boundary layer is proposed for the boundary layer thickness. The results are compared with the available experimental data and good agreement has been found. In case of wave boundary layers, there are three definitions of boundary layer thickness in use. Therefore, the full-range equation is derived for three of the definitions. The findings of this study may be useful in calculating suspended sediment transport in coastal environments and studying wave–current combined motion.     

0516号热带风暴过程分析

利用气象海洋数据资料和卫星遥感图片,分析研究了2005年第16号热带气旋"韦森特"(VICENTE)的特征,从最先的初始扰动到自身环流的分裂发展重组过程,以至当时周围相对应的大气环流,发现该热带气旋活动过程具有很多特性。对其移动过程进行的综合分析表明,只要存在合适距离等一定有利的条件,弱的两个涡旋之间完全可以发生强的作用力,高空辐散场的抽气作用对气旋的发展有极好的作用,所得的结论可对今后的预报提供一些启示和参考。     

珠江口伶仃洋锋的类别及其对沉积的影响

根据近年在珠江口伶仃洋的观测资料，对比国外有关河口锋的定义，归纳了伶仃洋内几种锋的现象，计有潮侵锋、岬角锋及湖水退急时的浅滩锋等。解释了锋生的原因与潮汐进退，特别与随潮入侵的咸水关系。文中也探讨了这些锋对沉积环境的影响，认为它是陆架水入侵河口地区的一种不容忽视的沉积动力过程。