吸收式造波机和宽式波浪槽

介绍一种宽式波浪槽，槽中设有一组吸收式造波机，它能吸收反射波。     

规则波在缓坡上变形与破碎数值分析

通过在二维数值水槽内用边界元法直接求解Laplace方程,对规则波在缓坡上的变形及破碎进行了数值计算。分析了不同底坡及采用不同底摩阻系数时规则波的破碎特征,并对规则波破碎的极限坡度进行了研究。重点分析了规则波破碎时海底坡度、底摩阻系数及波形不对称性对破碎指标的影响。     

数值波浪水槽消波器的改进与检验

数值波浪水槽技术是一种新兴的水波动力学数值模拟技术, 它能够实现水波现象的精确模拟。作为数值波浪水槽的一个重要功能, 消波技术被用于消除传入波浪在水槽末端的反射效应, 以防止反射波对有效实验区域的污染, 从而保证特定要求的水波实验的精确性。目前被广泛采用的消波技术可分为阻尼消波区和主动消波器两类。     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

双层局部开孔板沉箱对波浪反射的理论研究

提出了一种用于研究由双层开孔板和一个不透水后板的开孔结构对斜向波反射率的理论分析方法。整个流域被分成三个子域，在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法以得到该域内包含未知展开系数的势函数的表达式，在速度势的展开中，考虑了非传播模态波浪的影响。通过匹配开孔板处的边界条件可以求解待定的展开系数，继而求解双层开孔板防波堤结构对斜向波的反射率。数值计算结果与试验结果进行了比较，符合较好。并进一步讨论了几个重要因素对反射系数的影响。     

Second-Order Solutions for Random lnterfacial Waves Under Steady Uniform Currents

In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interracial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displacements of the density interface and the associated velocity potentials in two-layer fluid are solved to the second order, and the wave-wave interactions of the wave components and the interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the extended solutions include those obtained by Song (2004) as one special case where the steady uniform currents of the two fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions reduce to those derived by Sharma and Dean (1979) for random surface waves if the density of the upper fluid and the current of the lower fluid are both taken as zero.     

直立堤前为任意地形时立波运动的数值分析

本文利用MAC法(marker and cell method)对直立堤前求解域为任意形状(有突基床存在、海床起伏)的情况下立波波面及流场进行了数值分析,得到了实验资料及现有理论近似解的验证。在计算中为克服因堤面反射给入流界条件的确定带来的困难,我们根据立波形成的原理采用了”镜像法“技术。通过算例分析,揭示了当突基床尺度足够大时立波波节和波腹的位置向堤面方向前移从而波长缩短的原因,指出了因突基床的存在堤前立波节点附近离堤和向堤的水平流速分布的不对称性。     

高能波控陆架的风暴沉积和风暴层序——以澳大利亚东南部陆架为例

根据浅层地震和钻孔资科,将澳大利亚东南部研究地区高能波控陆架风暴沉积分为直立风暴层、叠瓦状风暴层、无序风暴层、水平风暴层和纹层状风暴层等五类.各类风暴层及风暴层与非风暴层组合而成悬移风暴层序、悬移-推移混合风暴层序和推移风暴层序三大类.中陆架风暴沉积与现今近岸和水下岸坡相似,岩性、岩相和古生物属海岸带,风暴沉积厚,底板埋深大,组成物质粗.推断中陆架风暴沉积当形成于冰后期海侵、该地带处在近岸带和水下岸坡环境时,此时海面上升速度可能减缓,或趋近于零,甚至可能有短时间的下降.     

具有内波特性的渤海南部次重力波

次重力波(infragravity waves)是频率范围介于局地平均Brunt-V¾is¾l¾频率和0.05Hz(涌浪频率)之间的一种海洋波动,其能量在深水大洋中一般甚低,但在浅海中却很强.该波动的研究对于浅海海洋内部混合、近岸海洋工程、海洋生态学、海洋沉积学及军事海洋学均有重要的意义.Munk[1]很早就开始研究这类波动,然而主要由于观测技术的限制,对于该类波动的动力学机制的研究进展迟缓.