复杂结构形式的海堤波浪力及波浪形态数值模拟

依据雷诺方程和k-ε紊流模型,按流体体积(VOF)法追踪波浪自由表面,采用源造波法,建立数值波浪水槽,数值模拟波浪对复杂结构形式海堤的作用.数值模拟结果与经验公式、物理模型试验结果基本符合,说明所建立的数值波浪水槽合理可行.揭示了不规则波作用下复杂结构形式海堤波浪力分布规律,模拟了堤前波浪形态变化,为探讨合理的海堤结构形式提供了依据.     

共转换点道集的抽取与转换波时变静校正

纵横波速度比固定时,同一地震道中各时间采样点对应不同的转换点位置,因此,常规的整体抽道方法只能抽取特定深度或特定层位条件下的共转换点道集,它不能保证所有P-SV转换波的反射点位置都在同一水平位置处。提出了一种精确抽取共转换点道集的新方法,运用这种方法抽取的共转换点道集中所有数据对应的转换点在地面的投影都对应于同一位置,因此,该道集是一种真正意义上的共转换点道集,在此基础上提出了一种解决短波长问题的转换波时变静校正方法,实际资料处理取得了好的效果。     

A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.     

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.     

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

香港附近海区台风波浪的波群统计分析

根据香港附近海区１９８５，１９８６年两次台风大浪的实测资料，以有效波高为相应水平，对波群作统计分析，得出可供海洋工程参考的波群连长、波群重复长度、波群出现频率以及波群中最大波高与有效波高的关系等。并将统计值与理论值作比较，结果表明：统计值大于“连”的理论值，而与包线理论中采用合田修正公式的汁算值相近。     

不规则波折射物理模型试验研究

作者曾发表过“不规则波折射的数学模型〔１〕。为了与数学模型的计算结果相互验证，在大连理工大学海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室进行了不规则波折射物理模型试验。试验研究结果表明：提出的“不规则波折射数学模型”对频谱采用等能量分割、对方向分布采用等间隔（Δθ＝ｃｏｓｎｔ）分割的组成波折射线性叠加法是合理的、可行的，可供港口及海岸工程规划、设计应用     

先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻(Ⅰ).理论

根据作者导得的AfKdV方程，理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻，能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时，本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题，从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。     

不规则波的物理模拟

介绍了不规则波的生成方法，其中长波、反射及三皮是关键。对波－－充合成做了分析，讨论了水波中的与雷诺数有关的现象的模拟。     

狭窄河道的二维潮波模拟

本文用ADE方法对狭窄而弯曲的河道进行了水平二维的潮波模拟,并运用不等距网格处理了区域的大弯曲问题,对于谢才系数在狭窄区域的取值问题进行了探讨,认为在狭窄区域谢才系数还依赖于区域的横向尺度。