Multi-scale variability of beach profiles at Duck: A wavelet analysis

Beach profiles have been observed to change over a range of spatial and temporal scales; however techniques for quantifying this variability have not been fully established. In this paper, a wavelet technique is introduced as a method to study the multi-scale variability of beach profiles. The beach profile data comprising a 22-year time series surveyed at the US Army Corps of Civil Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck are analysed using the adapted maximal overlap discrete wavelet transform (AMODWT). The analysis successfully identifies strong local features in the variability of beach profiles in time and space separately that cannot be isolated by traditional statistical methods. The analysis of spatial wavelet variances provides a new means of investigating the depth of closure. Analysis of variances by temporal scales shows that the combined effects of several temporal scales with one or two dominant scales can be seen at particular points across profiles whilst the dominant temporal scales are different at different portions of the profiles. The method allows for the extremely nonstationary behaviour of beach profile to be analysed into separate frequency bands that can facilitate the interpretation of morphological changes in terms of physical processes.     

珠江口伶仃洋锋的类别及其对沉积的影响

根据近年在珠江口伶仃洋的观测资料，对比国外有关河口锋的定义，归纳了伶仃洋内几种锋的现象，计有潮侵锋、岬角锋及湖水退急时的浅滩锋等。解释了锋生的原因与潮汐进退，特别与随潮入侵的咸水关系。文中也探讨了这些锋对沉积环境的影响，认为它是陆架水入侵河口地区的一种不容忽视的沉积动力过程。     

Numerical simulation of random wave slamming on structures in the splash zone

The numerical investigation of random wave slamming on superstructures of marine structures in the splash zone is presented in this paper. The impact pressures on the underside of the structure are computed based on the improved volume of fluid method (VOF). The governing equations are Reynolds time-averaged equations and the two equation k– model. The third order upwind difference scheme is applied to the convection term to reduce the effect of numerical viscosity. The numerical wave flume with random wave-maker suitable for VOF is established. Appropriate moving contact-line boundary conditions are introduced to the model wave in contact with and separated from the underside of structure. Parametric studies have been carried out for different incident waves, structure dimensions and structure clearance. The numerical results are verified by the experimental results.     

卤虫的发育与蜕皮

我国北方孤雌生殖卤虫在盐度为60,水温为19—28℃的条件下,自卵内孵出无节幼虫长成至性成熟产仔(无节幼虫或卵),需经蜕皮12—15次,其中多数为14次,历时15—18天,随后每次产仔即行蜕皮一次,本文描述了卤虫各个不同令期发育的外部形态变化,并根据其蜕皮次数和形态特征,将卤虫的发育分为十五令(15th instar)。此外还观察到在孤雌生殖的卵中有发育成为雄性的个体。     

A preliminary analysis of arcuate structures-relationship of the island arc and deep-sea trench to the dip angle of Benioff zone

The origin of arcuate islands and deep-sea trenches has been studied for a long time and various interpretations have been proposed. In this paper, some analytical models are put forward from a geometrical viewpoint and then the theoretical dip angles of the underthrusting slabs of circum-Pacific island arcs are computed and compared with those of the Benioff zone. As a result, it is found that the dip angle of the underthrusting slab is one of the main factors determining the curvature of the arcuate structure. The authors consider that this result may contribute to the plate theory.     

El Nio/La Nia过程影响因子的模糊诊断分析

基于模糊系统理论，讨论了从实测信号中滤除特定干扰噪音的途径和过程，研究了从观测资料中辩识El Nino／La Nina主要影响因子的诊断检测方法。结果表明，由于模糊系统具有非线性、容错性和自适应学习等特性，因此能够比较有效地辨认和检测出El Nino／La Nina事件的主要影响因子，并大致分析出它们对不同El Nino／La Nina事件的影响程度和贡献大小。     

海洋环境预报电视节目制作与回顾

作为海洋环境预报公益服务的窗口自开播至今,经历了20年的风风雨雨,海洋电视节目的内容从单一性的项目到海浪、海温、海冰、风暴潮、海水浴场综合性预报,电视视频信号从复合、分量信号到数字信号,通过光缆采用基带的方式传送视频信号到中央电视台.     

Cu2+、Zn2+、SDS、DBS对脊尾白虾的毒性试验

选用铜、锌2种常见重金属和十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)、十二烷基苯磺酸钠(DBS)2种阴离子表面活性剂对脊尾白虾Palaemon carincauda仔虾进行96h急性毒性试验。结果表明,Cu2 、Zn2 、SDS、DBS对脊尾白虾仔虾的96h LC50分别为0.34、0.82、14.3和14.4 mg.L-1。将脊尾白虾仔虾对这4种毒物的敏感性与文献报道的其它动物进行了比较,结果认为可以将其作为毒性测试的标准试验生物。     

波浪作用下孔隙海床-管线动力相互作用分析

波浪作用下海床中的孔隙水压力与有效应力是影响海底管线稳定性的主要因素。然而,在目前的海床响应分析中一般将管线假定为刚性,并不能合理地考虑海床与管线之间的相互作用效应,同时也没有考虑土体和管线加速度对海床动力响应的惯性影响,从而无法确定由此所引起的管线内应力。为此考虑管线的柔性,分别采用饱和孔隙介质的Biot动力固结理论和弹性动力学理论列出了海床与管线的控制方程,进而采用摩擦接触理论考虑海床与管线之间的相互作用效应,基于有限元方法建立了海床-管线相互作用的计算模型及其数值算法。通过变动参数对比计算讨论了管线几何尺寸、海床土性参数对波浪所引起的管线周围海床孔隙水压力和管线内应力的影响。     

东太平洋柱状沉积物的古气候和古环境记录

太平洋深海盆地的远洋沉积物在物质组成和来源上远较大陆边缘简单.由于远离大陆,又有海沟与周边大陆分隔,太平洋深海沉积物中通常不包含由河流水系搬运而来的悬浮物,因此从深海沉积物中提取古气候、古环境信息可以避免诸多地质因素相互叠加和干扰[1].深海远洋沉积物中的主要组分是风成陆源碎屑(包括火山碎屑)和来自上层海水的生源组分(降落到洋底的生物壳体)以及由海解作用形成的自生矿物[2],其中陆源碎屑的相对含量、粒度及矿物成分可以反映大气环流的强度及物源区的气候环境[1],生源组分的组成、相对含量和丰度以及种属含量变化则与表层海水的生产力和溶解作用有关.