Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

渤海三维海洋温度和海流数值预报

"十·五"期间,我国开展了三维海洋温度和海流数值预报的业务化研究工作.经过3年的努力,渤海三维海洋温度和海流数值预报系统研制完成,并于2003年10月,开始试预报.本文对该预报系统以及运行情况进行了介绍,并分析了所存在的问题和发展方向.     

E1 Nio phenomenon in simple ocean data assimilation data

1 IntroductionIt is well known that interaction between the trop-ical ocean and atmosphere produces the largest inter-annual climate signal, El Nino-Southern Oscillation(ENSO). In past decades many efforts have been madein understanding and predicting ENSO: such as the hy-pothesis of Bjerknes (1969) that ENSO arises as aself-sustained cycle in which SSTA in the Pacific O-cean causes the trade winds to strengthen or slackenand that this in turn drives the ocean circulation changesthat …     

A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.     

Long-Term Effect of TMD on Vibration Control of An MDOF Offshore Fixed Platform

A three-dimensional fixed offshore platform in deep water modeled by the finite element method is studied in this paper. Analysis of the dynamic response of the MDOF structure is realized taking the non-linearity of the wave drag force and the wave-structure interaction into account. The structural response statistics, which have Gaussian distributions, are used to evaluate the vibration effect of the structure without TMD and with TMD. And an optimal method to design TMD controlling the first mode of the multi-mode structure is proposed. Moreover, the probabilities of occurrence of sea states at the platform site are considered for prediction of the long-term effect of a TMD. Simulation results demonstrate that the long-term effect of a well-designed TMD is good and the practical use is possible due to the good stability of its optimal parameters under different sea states.     

西洋东大港水道流速垂线分布研究

对辐射沙洲海域东大港4#站位连续2个潮周期的流速测量资料进行了分析、研究,拟合给出了流速垂线分布关系,并根据实际测量资料确定了该站位6个水层的浑水水流尾流函数项表达式。这些表达式表明浑水水流尾流函数是相对深度和摩阻速度的函数。探讨分析了尾流函数的空间分布和潮周期过程。非恒定流的水流尾流函数项的准确表达,对于揭示含沙水流流速结构及水、沙相影响作用规律将起到启发和推动作用。     

河口涨落潮槽水动力特征及河槽类型判定

在前人对河口冲刷槽研究的基础上,选择长江口南支、新桥水道、南小泓和南港主槽作为典型涨、落潮槽研究对象,以2001年洪季和2003年枯季实测资料为根据,比较分析了长江口涨落潮槽的水流、泥沙、优势流和优势沙等动力特征,结果表明用单一因子分析河槽性质不够全面.提出了一个(无量纲因子)河槽类型系数(λ)来综合表述河槽的多种水文泥沙特征,可以较全面地用多个影响因子来合理地判断河槽类型.     

9711号北上台风演变及暴雨过程的位涡诊断分析

通过对 971 1号台风登陆北上穿过山东造成山东特大暴雨过程的湿位涡的分析 ,并从湿位涡的角度研究了台风演变及山东特大暴雨的形成机制 ,揭示了冷空气在台风演变及暴雨过程中的重要作用。结果表明 :倾斜涡度发展是暴雨产生和台风加强的重要机制之一 ,暴雨产生在 θe线陡立密集区内 ;湿位涡在这次暴雨过程中对流层低层具有 MPV1 <0 ,MPV2 >0的特征 ,此次暴雨产生在负的MPV1等值线密集区中 ;对流层上部及平流层下部高位涡的下传使得低层斜压性增大 ,引起低层的对流稳定度减小 ,促使气旋性涡度发展 ,有利于位势不稳定能量的释放 ,使得暴雨增幅 ,导致台风的加强并演变为温带气旋。     

Characteristics of Scour and Deposition in Front of Breakwaters Under Irregular Broken Clapotis

First the scour and deposition patterns of the sandy seabed in front of a vertical breakwater under the action of irregular broken clapotis are investigated experimentally and classified into five types: scour type Ⅰ , scour type Ⅱ, scour type Ⅲ, deposition type Ⅰ, and deposition type Ⅱ . Secondly, the processes of formation of scour and deposition patterns are probed in comparison with those induced by regular broken clapotis and standing waves. Thirdly, the criteria for distinguishing scour and deposition patterns under irregular broken clapotis are presented.     

合浦珠母贝26S蛋白酶体S4,S7亚基基因片段的分离与分析

26S蛋白酶体是真核生物中一种具有ATP依赖性的蛋白酶复合体,主要通过泛肽途径选择性降解细胞内与代谢调控、细胞周期有关的功能蛋白及异常蛋白,参与多种细胞活动的调控过程。26S蛋白酶体由具有催化活性的20S亚复合体和一个具有调节作用的19S亚复合体组成,其中19S亚复合体中的ATP酶亚基是调节26S蛋白酶体活性的重要组件。本通过简并引物PCR手段,从软体动物合浦珠母贝(Pinctada fucata)中扩增到参与构成19S亚复合体的S4和S7(MSS1)两个亚基的基因片段。这两个基因片段所编码的ATP酶组件包含有Gx4GKT,DEID,SAT和H／QRxGRxxR等26S蛋白酶体ATP酶亚基的共同功能基序。这是首次在软体动物中报道26S蛋白酶体的ATP酶亚基基因序列,为研究软体动物中26S蛋白酶体的结构与功能奠定了分子基础。