A Nonlinear Model of Surf Beat

A nonlinear short-wave-averaged (surf beat) model is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called weighted-averaged flux (WAF) method (eg Watson et al., 1992), with time-operator splitting used for the treatment of some of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short-wave (or primary-wave) energy equation is solved using a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. Results of validation indicate that the model performs satisfactorily in most respects.     

Wave Loads and Protective Techniques of An On-Shore Wave Power Device

In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec     

Effect of Berm Width and Elevation on Irregular Wave Run-Up

This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.     

Numerical Analysis of Wave Forces on Arbitrarily Shaped Multi-Pillars Over Varying Topography

The modified hybrid element method (MHEM) is utilized to predict and analyze wave forces on arbitrarily shaped multiple bodies. This method can be applied to waves of all water depths, i. e. shallow, intermediate, and deep waters, on slowly varying seabed. The MHEM employs the ICCG method to save CPU and storage, thus the computation of wave forces for large multi-body systems can be carried out on microcomputers. Numerical results of the present method are compared with experimental data and other solutions. It is shown that the MHEM provides more accurate solutions of the wave forces than other numerical methods do. Therefore, the methodology presented herein can be used in the design of coastal and ocean structures.     

渤海湾表层沉积硅藻组合

分析了渤海湾潮间带4条长度为2~3 km的测线的14个站位的表层沉积硅藻,结合前人在浅海区(低潮线以下至水深约30 m处)15个站位的表层沉积硅藻资料,发现并统计了分属于21属的46种硅藻。应用对应分析方法,将渤海湾潮间带及浅海区表层沉积硅藻初步划分为3个组合。其中,组合Ⅰ为条纹—柱状小环藻-圆筛藻组合,分布在以泥质为主的潮间带区;组合Ⅱ为双眉藻-曲壳藻组合,分布在砂质为主的潮间带区;组合Ⅲ为条纹—柱状小环藻-菱形藻-圆筛藻-具槽直链藻组合,分布在浅海区。从潮间带向浅海区,随水深的增加,呈现出条纹—柱状小环藻数量减少、具槽直链藻数量增加的趋势。     

潟湖潮汐通道水力特性与治理

综合论述了潟湖潮汐通道口门之流速、断面面积、通道长度、延时角和饱满系数之间的关系,以及沿岸漂沙对口门的影响。对不同类型的潟湖潮汐通道,提出了中潮位射流导流堤、口门复式断面和通道分汊等治理方法及其通道口门相关尺度的具体计算。     

使用简易测试平台检测马哈克扭力仪的性能

本文描述简易测试平台的原理与制作，对马哈克MAIHAK MDS－820型扭力仪检测模拟负载的准确性进行探讨。     

Wave-Current Forces on Small Square Cylinders (Part I)

-Based on the extended Morison Equation and model tests, the in-line forces on small square cylinders caused by waves (regular and irregular) and currents are analyzed in detail in this paper. The hydrodynamic coefficient CD and Cu related to KC number and the effect of direction of wave incidence are also given, which can be used in engineering practice.     

Research on Characteristics of Density Current Under the Action of Waves

In this paper,the characteristics of density current under the action of waves are describedwith the help of flume experiment and theoretical analysis.The study shows that turbid water under the ac-tion of the waves can present three types of motion,i.e.significant stratification,fragile stratification andstrong mixing.The motion of turbid water presents significant stratification when(H/D)/△ρ/ρ~(1/2)≤4.5,generally this state is known as density current.The formulas of motionvelocity,thickness,and discharge of density current moving on horizontal bottom are derived by use of ba-sic equations such as momemtum equation,equation of energy conservation and continuity equation offluid.The time-average velocity and the thickness of density current under the action of waves have a rela-tionship with such parameters as relative density(△ρ/ρ),wave height(H),and water depth(D).Whenthese parameters are determined,the time-average thickness and motion velocity of density current are al-so determined.The relat     

Estimation of Axial Pile Bearing Capacity According to Shear Strength Parameters of Soil

At pesent,it is very popular to estimate pile bearing capacity by use of empirical formula andphysical indexes of soil provided in the design codes for civil construction in China.This paper attempts toapply mechanical indexes of soil and semi-empirical formulas,which are based on soil mechanical theoriesand were summarized and presented by Meyerhof in 1976,to calculate the axial pile bearing capacity.Lo-ading test results of 24 single piles in Tianjin area have been collected and compared with the proposed cal-ulation approach.