Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

THE VERTICAL MIGRATION OF DIATOM IN LITTORAL OF XIBIAN AND XIAO''AO

The vertical migration of diatoms in mud-flats was studied in littoral of Xibian, Longhai County and Xiao'ao, Lianjiang County, the dominant species being Gyrosigma spencerii and Hantzschia virgata respectively. Both light and tide are important factors affecting the vertical migration of diatoms. With the advent of tide, the diatom community disappears from the surface. It reappears gradually when exposed to light. In the dark, the diatoms never appear in great quantity on the surface in laboratory or in littoral. Whether in the light or in the dark, the diatoms aggregate in maximum numbers in the upper 2 mm of the sediment. But when the tide has covered the sediments for 4 hr, Hantz. virgata penetrates the mud down to a depth of 14 mm, Gy. spencerii, 12 mm. We have found that Gy. spencerii posseses phototaxis, but no tide rhythm and no day-night rhythm in our laboratory.     

卫星海洋遥感的发展和预报中心遥感应用

本文简要介绍了卫星海洋遥感的发展情况和可获得的海洋气象观测数据,介绍了预报中心卫星遥感的发展历史和现今状况,以及为海洋环境监测和预报提供的海洋遥感信息产品,并给出了部分产品示例.     

凡纳滨对虾生物学及养殖生态学研究进展

凡纳滨对虾原产于太平洋沿岸水域秘鲁北部至墨西哥桑诺拉一带。1988年由张伟权教授引进我国。本文对国内外凡纳滨对虾生物学及养殖生态学的研究进行了总结，提出了凡纳滨对虾养殖生态学今后研究的方向。     

A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.     

Characteristics of Scour and Deposition in Front of Breakwaters Under Irregular Broken Clapotis

First the scour and deposition patterns of the sandy seabed in front of a vertical breakwater under the action of irregular broken clapotis are investigated experimentally and classified into five types: scour type Ⅰ , scour type Ⅱ, scour type Ⅲ, deposition type Ⅰ, and deposition type Ⅱ . Secondly, the processes of formation of scour and deposition patterns are probed in comparison with those induced by regular broken clapotis and standing waves. Thirdly, the criteria for distinguishing scour and deposition patterns under irregular broken clapotis are presented.     

Modeling of Multi-Freedom Ship Motions in Irregular Waves with Fuzzy Neural Networks

1 .IntroductionAshiptravelingatseaundergoesundesirablewave inducedmotions ,namely ,surge ,sway ,heav ing ,rolling ,pitchingandyaw .Thesemotionsoftencauseproblemstothecrew ,theonboardequip mentand ,intheworstcase ,thesafetyofthevessel.Tominimizethewave inducedshipmotions ,controlsystemsmaybeapplied .Theaccuratemodelingofshipmotionsisthereforeveryimportantforshipdesignanddesignofmotioncontrolsystems .Manyresearchershavedevelopedshipmotionpredictionmethodsbasedonthepotentialflowtheo ries (Dong ,…     

Modal Wave Number Tomography for South China Sea Front

1 .IntroductionTheSouthChinaSealiestothesoutheastpartoftheChinesecontinent.TheKuroshioflowsbytheeastsideoftheLuzonStraitfromsouthtonorthinwinter ,spring ,andautumn .TheKuroshioaf fectsnearcurrentfieldsandtemperaturefields,changingtheoceanenvironmentparametersandsoundpropagation .Thus ,theoceanacoustictomographytechniqueisofpotentialtolong term ,largescalemonitoringoftheocean .Themodalwavenumbertomographymethod (Rajanetal.,1 987;Frisketal.,1 989)isusedtoobtainthesoundspeedprofileinwatercol…     

A New Probability of Detection Model for Updating Crack Distribution of Offshore Structures

1 .IntroductionNondestructiveinspection (NDI)isveryimportantforensuringthereliabilityofoffshorestructuresintheirservicelives (Lauraetal.,1 996 ) .Itiswellknownthatdetectionofflawsinvolvesconsider ablestatisticaluncertainties.Asaresult,theprobabilityofdetection (POD)forallflawsofagivensizehasbeenusedintheliteraturetodefinethecapabilityofaparticularNDItechniqueinagivenen vironment.SincethedataofPODusuallyscatterlargely ,itisdifficulttodeterminewhichmodelfitstheavailabledatabest.Thismodelun…     

冬季和春季长江口及其近海水域浮游病毒丰度的分析

采用荧光显微技术,对2006年长江口及近海水域20个站点的表层及10m层或潜水体冬、春两季的浮游病毒丰度进行了检测,对浮游病毒丰度在季节（冬、春两季）、水平分布和垂直分布上的变化进行了探讨.调查区浮游病毒丰度在冬、春季节上并无明显差异,但在水平分布上存在很大差异,河口区浮游病毒直接检测量（Virus Direct Count, VDC）达到10^7个/ml,近海水域VDC为10^6个/ml,河口区的浮游病毒丰度都明显高于近海水域病毒丰度 （P＜0.01）.在垂直分布上,冬、春两季长江口水域水深小于10m的站位,表层浮游病毒丰度与底层病毒丰度无明显差别,水深大于10m的站位,表层水样的浮游病毒丰度都高于10m水层病毒丰度,说明长江口浮游病毒的垂直分布与站位总水深有关.还通过比较各站点VDC与叶绿素a含量的数据,分析了二者之间的相关性：冬季浮游病毒丰度与叶绿素a含量成正相关性;春季浮游病毒丰度与叶绿素a含量成负相关性,但病毒丰度受叶绿素a含量的影响仅为10%-11%.