A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

北黄海沉积物中重金属分布及环境背景值

本文讨论了北黄海１１个柱状岩芯样的颗粒物（＜０．０６３ｍｍ）中重金属的分布，采用统计学方法对Ｃｕ，Ｐｈ，Ｚｎ和Ｃｄ进行态性检验，用柱样稳定段（拐点以下）作为背景段，获得重金属环境背景值．     

海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究

本文通过对海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究分析，着重研究了在规则波中平台沉垫总体波浪载荷和局部水动压力分布的情况，定性地考察了非线性影响、浅水影响的重要性，为今后波浪理论中粘性的引入，进而考虑粘性与波浪运动的非线性相互干扰提供实测依据     

渤海南部海域年极值波浪和设计波浪的特征研究

本文用统计计算和后报方法，获得了本海域不同海区多年年极值波高（Ｈ１／１０）资料。用Ｐ－Ⅲ型和短期测波资料频率分析方法，估算了各海区的设计波高，并依据文献［３］计算出对应的平均周期。用Ｋｏｌｍｏｇｏｒｏｆｆ适合度方法检验所得的结果表明，依Ｐ－Ⅲ型方法拟配的理论频率曲线与经验点十分吻合，从而确定了本海域不同海区最佳的设计波浪。分析本海域年极值波浪的基本特征表明，本海域除了渤海湾北部海区以外，主浪向一般为ＮＮＥ向，渤海海峡区的年极值波高和设计波高均为最大，而向莱州湾及渤海湾沿岸海区逐渐减小；在沿岸海区，由龙口至黄河口一带的极值波高较大。     

海洋沉积样品~(14)C测年差异来源及其结果解释

~(14)C测年已为海洋研究工作广泛应用,但由于时有不合理取样或在运用数据时没有充分考虑各种海洋环境和动力因素,因而产生无法使用数据作合理解释的现象。本文试从海洋样品本身和海洋各种营力作用分析各种数据差异的来源,认为海洋环境特别是海岸带环境的复杂性是造成海洋样品~(14)C测年数据差异的主要原因,它可能影响样品的代表性或使数据解释时得出错误结论.并指出在运用年代结果时一定要充分考虑地质地理和各种营力作用因素。     

红树林遥感智能分类方法研究

利用ＧＩＳ信息中的红树林地域分布规律作向导，充分利用械树林区的光谱信息进行红树林植被信息提取。在对比研究常规的红树林图象自理方法的基础上，提出了适用于红树林植被信息遥感监测的智能分类方法。     

Numerical and simplified methods for the calculation of the total horizontal wave force on a perforated caisson with a top cover

The VOF method and the k–ε model, combined with the equation of state of air at constant temperature, have been used to calculate the total horizontal wave force caused by monochromatic waves acting on a perforated caisson with a top cover. From comparison of various parameters, such as the total horizontal force, the pressure difference on the front wall, the pressure on the back wall and the pressure on the top cover, between the numerical results and test data, it can be seen that the numerical results agree well with the test data. It is concluded that the method described in this paper can be utilized to calculate wave forces acting on perforated caissons with a top cover in the case of nonovertopping, nonbreaking waves. A simplified method to calculate the total horizontal force has been developed, based on test data, using a least-squares method. A comparison between the numerical results and the values calculated from the simplified equations shows good agreement. Therefore the simplified equations can be used in engineering applications to evaluate the total horizontal force on a perforated caisson with a top cover.     

东海水系与生物关系的初步分析

本文利用中日黑潮联合调查研究期间1986年5—6月和1989年7—8月航次水文与生物的同步取样资料,分析了东海测区内水系组成与浮游甲藻类及浮游桡足类等分布之间的对应关系。指出了不同生态类型的生物需要不同的物理海洋环境条件。同时,某些指示生物的分布又为区分水系、了解流系情况提供了良好的示性指标,并且从某些生物数量的变化还可以判断出水系混合与变性的程度。     

In situ determination on food consumption and ecological conversion efficiency of a marine fish species, Hyporhamphus sajori

The food consumption and ecological conversion efficiency of a species marine pelagic andsmall size fish, Hyporhamphus sajori, were determined by using in situ stomach content method presented by Eggers. The results showed that: (1) the fish was taken in food all day, so empty-stomach rate was very low, taking up about 4.5% of the total determined fish number. However, the fish still has significant daily feeding rhythm. A feeding peak was found 0:00 o'clock at night, but feeding level was always high in the daytime; (2) relationship between instantaneous food content in stomach and corresponding time could be described as S_t = a ·e ~(-b ·t). There was not significant difference of instantaneous gastric evacuation rate between two determinations, with average value being 0.13 × 10~(-2)g/ (g·d) (wet weight); (3) the daily food consumption tended to change in irregular waving form, with average value being (10.16×l0~(-2)±1.19×l0~(-2) g/ (g·d) (wet weight) or (55.56 × 10~(-2) ±6.51 × 10~(-2) kJ/