The breaking of wind-generated waves is an important phenomenon in the ocean, having close relation to many aspects of the ocean, such as air-sea interaction, ocean wave dynamics, oceanic remote sensing and ocean engineering. The first problem encountered in both its theoretical study and practical measurement is how to detect the breaking of waves. 相似文献
In various regions along the east and southeast coast of China and on the outer shelf of the East China Sea, series of cheniers have been found and studied. Their geomorphological and sedimentological features have been described and the main conditions for their formation established.
The development of cheniers in China can be divided into three periods: 24,000-15,000 yrs B.P., 7000-5000 yrs B.P. and 5000 yrs B.P. onwards. These periods have been based on 14C datings of 80 shell samples. The chenier groups of the three periods are distributed throughout various geomorphological locations.
Using the geomorphological locations of the cheniers in combination with their age of formation, the palaeopositions of the Chinese coastline in the various periods since 24,000 yrs B.P. are described. The history of the position of the east coast of China, including the features attesting to sealevel changes during this era, is briefly discussed. 相似文献
The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately wit 相似文献
1 .Introduction Submarine pipelines are one of the safest and the least environmentally disruptive means for ma-rine gas or oil transport . With the development of exploitation of submarine oil or gas ,the safety ofsubmarine pipelines has becomethe major … 相似文献
Based on Iwan‘s wake oseillator model developed with the classical van der Pol equalion, the differential equation for the response of the vortex-induced vihration (VIV) of the riser considering the effect of the internal flowing fluid and the external marine environmental condition is derived. The effect of the intermal flowing fluid on the response of VIV of the riser is studied by means of the Finite Element Method. The results show that the effect of the internal fluid velocity on the VIV of the riser is strong when the natural frequency of the riser is close to the vortex shedding frequency. In addition, the increase of the top tension can decrease the sensitivity of the riser to the internal fluid velocity. 相似文献
Mangroves are special woody plant communities in the intertidal zone of tropical and subtropical coasts. They prove to be a natural microorganisms and new metabolites storage. In the study of mangrove endophytic fungi metabolites, four new compounds, Compounds 1, 2, 3 and 4, as well as a known octaketide, cytosporone B (5), are isolated from an endophytic fungus, Dothiorella sp., HTF3. They all show cytotoxic activities. The elucidation of these structures is mainly based on 1D/2D NMR and ESI-MS spectral analyses. 相似文献