Cross-shore variation of long-term average longshore current velocity in the nearshore zone

The cross-shore variation of long-term average longshore current velocity was investigated on the basis of a 15-year data set of longshore current, wave and wind. The longshore current velocities were measured once a day along a 427-m-long pier. The results show that the direction of the long-term average longshore current velocity away (>200 m) from the shore was the opposite to that near the shore. The southward current was dominant offshore, whereas the northward current was dominant near the shore. The cross-shore variation of the long-term average longshore current velocity was formed owing to a difference between the wave and wind conditions when the northward and southward currents developed. When the northward current developed, the offshore wave height was relatively small and the frequency of the southward wind velocity was almost equal to that of the northward one. As a result, the northward current developed only near the shore and decayed outside the narrow surf zone. On the other hand, when the southward current developed, the offshore wave height was relatively large and the southward wind velocity was predominant, which resulted in the southward current developing not only in the wide surf zone but also outside the surf zone. The superposition of the two cross-shore variations produced a cross-shore variation of the long-term average longshore current velocity with a northward velocity near the shore and a southward velocity away from the shore.     

Development of a GPGPU-parallelized hybrid finite-discrete element method for modeling rock fracture

The hybrid finite-discrete element method (FDEM) is widely used for engineering applications, which, however, is computationally expensive and needs further development, especially when rock fracture process is modeled. This study aims to further develop a sequential hybrid FDEM code formerly proposed by the authors and parallelize it using compute unified device architecture (CUDA) C/C++ on the basis of a general-purpose graphics processing unit (GPGPU) for rock engineering applications. Because the contact detection algorithm in the sequential code is not suitable for GPGPU parallelization, a different contact detection algorithm is implemented in the GPGPU-parallelized hybrid FDEM. Moreover, a number of new features are implemented in the hybrid FDEM code, including the local damping technique for efficient geostatic stress analysis, contact damping, contact friction, and the absorbing boundary. Then, a number of simulations with both quasi-static and dynamic loading conditions are conducted using the GPGPU-parallelized hybrid FDEM, and the obtained results are compared both quantitatively and qualitatively with those from either theoretical analysis or the literature to calibrate the implementations. Finally, the speed-up performance of the hybrid FDEM is discussed in terms of its performance on various GPGPU accelerators and a comparison with the sequential code, which reveals that the GPGPU-parallelized hybrid FDEM can run more than 128 times faster than the sequential code if it is run on appropriate GPGPU accelerators, such as the Quadro GP100. It is concluded that the GPGPU-parallelized hybrid FDEM developed in this study is a valuable and powerful numerical tool for rock engineering applications.     

Stress-induced crack path in Aji granite under tensile stress

The double-torsion test using Aji granite was carried out to investigate the interaction between stress-induced crack path and mineral grains. Crack velocities were controlled at range 10^–7 m/s to 10^–1 m/s. After the stressed specimens were dyed, we checked the crack path by thin section analysis, using an optical microscope. The stress-induced crack path was divided into two types, transgranular and intergranular cracks, and each path was subdivided with respect to mineral grains. In spite of the extensive range of crack velocities, the ratios between the transgranular and intergranular crack lengths did not change. The crack paths were all jagged, and often showed detour around the grain boundary when faced with obstacles like hard grains or preexisting cracks. That is to say, quartz grain played an important role as an obstacle. Feldspar grain could change the crack path because of its cleavage plane. Biolite grain had a serious effect on the path even if its constitution ratio is very small. Fractal dimensions of the crack paths were calculated by three methods, as indicators of surface roughness. The fractal dimensions were shown in a slight trend with the change of crack velocity. This trend can be explained from the point of limited cracking rate in stress corrosion.     

Adjustment of Wind Waves to Sudden Changes of Wind Speed

An experiment was conducted in a small wind-wave facility at the Ocean Engineering Laboratory, California, to address the following question: when the wind speed changes rapidly, how quickly and in what manner do the short wind waves respond? To answer this question we have produced a very rapid change in wind speed between U _low (4.6 m s^?1) and U _high (7.1 m s^?1). Water surface elevation and air turbulence were monitored up to a fetch of 5.5 m. The cycle of increasing and decreasing wind speed was repeated 20 times to assure statistical accuracy in the measurement by taking an ensemble mean. In this way, we were able to study in detail the processes by which the young laboratory wind waves adjust to wind speed perturbations. We found that the wind-wave response occurs over two time scales determined by local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment, Δt ₁/T = O(10) and Δt ₂/T = O(100), respectively, in the current tank. The steady state is characterized by a constant non-dimensional wave height (H/gT ² or equivalently, the wave steepness for linear gravity waves) depending on wind speed. This equilibrium state was found in our non-steady experiments to apply at all fetches, even during the long transition to steady state, but only after a short initial relaxation Δt ₁/T of O(10) following a sudden change in wind speed. The complete transition to the new steady state takes much longer, Δt ₂/T of O(100) at the largest fetch, during which time energy propagates over the entire fetch along the rays (dx/dt = c _g) and grows under the influence of wind pumping. At the same time, frequency downshifts. Although the current study is limited in scale variations, we believe that the suggestion that the two adjustment time scales are related to local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment is also applicable to the ocean.     

Nutrient regeneration at bottom after a massive spring bloom in a subarctic coastal environment,Funka Bay,Japan

Nutrient regeneration and oxygen consumption after a spring bloom in Funka Bay were studied on monthly survey cruises from February to November 1998 and from March to December 1999. A high concentration of ammonium (more than 4 μmol l⁻¹) was observed near the bottom (80–90 m) after April. Phosphate and silicate gradually accumulated and dissolved oxygen decreased in the same layer. Salinity near the bottom did not change until summer, leading to the presumption that the system in this layer is semi-closed, so regenerated nutrients were preserved until September. Nitrification due to the oxidation of ammonium to nitrate was observed after June. Nitrite, an intermediate product, was detected at 4–7 μmol L⁻¹ in June and July 1999. Assuming that decomposition is a first order reaction, the rate constant for decomposition of organic nitrogen was determined to be 0.014 and 0.008 d⁻¹ in 1998 and 1999, respectively. The ammonium oxidation rate increased rapidly when the ambient ammonium concentration exceeded 5 μmol L⁻¹. We also performed a budget calculation for the regeneration process. The total amount of N regenerated in the whole water column was 287.4 mmol N m⁻² in 4 months, which is equal to 22.8 gC m⁻², assuming the Redfield C to N ratio. This is 34% of the primary production during the spring bloom and is comparable to the export production of 25 gC m⁻² measured by a sediment trap at 60 m (Miyake et al., 1998).     

The steepness and shape of wind waves

Variations are found in the shape and the steepness of wind-generated surface gravity waves between very young waves, such as seen in a laboratory tank, and larger waves of various wave ages encountered at sea as the result of wind stress over larger fetches. These differences in the characteristic shape of wind waves are presented as a function of the wave age. The wave steepness is also expressed as a function of wave age, the measurement of which is consistent with the 3/2-power law connecting wave height and characteristic period, normalized by the air friction velocity.     

Abundance and biomass of scyphomedusae, Aurelia aurita and Chrysaora melanaster, and Ctenophora, Bolinopsis mikado, with estimates of their feeding impact on zooplankton in Tokyo Bay, Japan

The abundance of a scyphomedusae, Aurelia aurita and Chrysaora melanaster, and a ctenophore, Bolinopsis mikado, in Tokyo Bay was investigated from 1995 to 1997. Aurelia aurita appeared throughout the year with a peak in abundance occurring from spring to summer. The average abundance and biomass during this period for the three successive years was 4.8, 43.8 and 3.2 ind. m⁻², and 1.02, 10.0 and 0.42 gC m⁻², respectively. The values in 1995 and 1997 were comparable with those previously reported for A. aurita abundance from 1990 to 1992. Values were very high in 1996, but the size composition of the bell diameter did not differ from other years, which suggested the absence of food limitation for A. aurita in 1996. C. melanaster was scarce over the survey period (<1.0 ind. m⁻²) while Bolinopsis mikado was more abundant during September to December, with maximum values of 172 ind. m⁻² and 0.33 gC m⁻² observed in December 1997. The weight-specific clearance rate for A. aurita on zooplankton (mainly copepods and their nauplii) was 0.16 ± 0.05 lgWW⁻¹ h⁻¹ (n = 13). Population clearance rate peaked from spring to summer, with average levels of 14.2%, 162% and 5.0% day⁻¹ obtained from spring to summer for respective years. Population clearance rates for B. mikado, calculated based on minimum carbon requirements, was 7.1% day⁻¹ in December 1997. Consequently, the trophic role of gelatinous zooplankton as predators in Tokyo Bay is important all the year round, considering the high impact of A. aurita from spring to summer and B. mikado from autumn to winter.     

Contractual solution to the tragedy of property right in coastal fisheries

This article aims to analyze how private property regimes can co-exist with common property regimes in a coastal area. The case study shows how the dynamics of private property and common property right holders is in creating commitment to make symbiosis in resource use. This is based on a case study in two villages in West Lombok, Indonesia, where pearl-culture as a private property resource exists in a common property regime. This is a successful story in dealing with the tragedy of property rights in the country wherein established institutional arrangement is still absent. Nevertheless, this may be site specific, and fragile if there is no institutional arrangement combining formal and informal rules and involving both formal and informal authorities. To make a robust solution, multilevel solution must be considered: national, local, and community level, with reference to Japan case.     

Statistical study on the local equilibrium between wind and wind waves by using data from ocean data buoy stations

The local equilibrium between the wind and wind waves, which is defined by a range of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law between the non-dimensional significant wave height and period, is statistically investigated by using wind and wave data obtained at four ocean data buoy stations in the seas near Japan. The friction velocity is calculated from the wind speed measured at one height together with the significant wave period by using formulas of the wave dependent drag coefficient proposed by Tobaet al. (1990). The data for small waves or for weak winds indicate that the waves do not satisfy the criterion for the local equilibrium, because they may be affected by changing winds or remotely generated swells. In the seas near Japan, the data which satisfy the local equilibrium are about 6% through a year. Otherwise swells are dominant in most situations. Changing winds also cause deviations from the local equilibrium. The degree of satisfaction of the local equilibrium can be classified by ranges of the significant wave height. As the significant wave height exceeds 4 m, the local equilibrium is more frequently satisfied.     

Heat balance of the surface layer of the sea at ocean weather station T

Heat balance of the upper 200 m of the sea south of Japan is studied, by the use of marine meteorological and oceanographic data at Ocean Weather Station T (29°N, 135°E), intensively obtained from June 1950 to November 1953. Local time change of the heat content in the surface layer and the net heat flux through the air-sea interface are calculated directly from these data, and the heat convergence in the sea is estimated from their residuals. Regarding the relative importance of one- and three-dimensional processes, it is found that, on a time scale of a few days to one month, the variation of heat content depends on heat convergence in the sea, while on a seasonal time scale, the heat content is determined primarily by the heat flux through the sea surface in December through February, by heat convergence within the sea from March to May, and by both processes from June to November. It is inferred that the heat convergence in the sea is caused by advection of water masses which are bounded by sharp fronts. Spectral analysis of sea surface temperature indicates that they typically take 2 to 3 days to pass the station, and their typical size is estimated as around 20 km by assuming the typical advection velocity of water masses to be 10 cm s^?1.