Morphological characteristics and medium-term evolution of the beaches between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco)

This work presents the results of a combined study on the beach morphology and the evolution at short- and medium-term of the littoral between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco). It is an interesting sector showing a great increase of human occupation and coastal structures. The monitoring program allowed for the reconstruction of the beach morphological behavior and the seasonal changes. The studied beaches presented reflective profiles recording little seasonality, with the most notable morphological changes being strictly related to storms. Surf Similarity and Surf Scaling parameters highlighted the existence of intermediate and reflective beach states, characterized by plunging breakers. Aerial photographs and a satellite image have been geo-referenced and elaborated with GIS tools to reconstruct the short- and medium-term evolution of the littoral and the sediment transport pathways. The littoral showed important erosion at short- and medium-term related to a negative sedimentary budget because of offshore transport. Sand accumulation was recorded close to the main ports, i.e., Marina Smir and Marina Kabila. These port structures constituted impermeable, fixed limits, which divided the studied area into littoral cells. Other free, transit limits were also observed.     

河北省海岸侵蚀动态及成因机制研究

河北省沙质岸滩存在海岸侵蚀现象,对沙滩旅游、海滩工程建设造成严重威胁,制约河北省海洋经济社会发展。海岸侵蚀监测结果显示,区域海滩滩面受波浪、潮流影响较大,时冲时淤,摆动频繁,沙质岸滩整体处于侵蚀状态,各区段蚀淤情况有所差异,高潮线以上有所淤高,海滩坡度开始变陡,呈下蚀状态。海岸侵蚀灾害已引起沙滩沙质粗化、滩肩变窄、滩坡变陡及基岩裸露比率增多等问题。针对这一突出问题,通过定点测量与遥感监测相结合的方式,研究了河北省海岸线动态演变特征,经计算,河北省各侵蚀岸段海岸侵蚀速率达1.0~4.0m/a,单宽体积侵蚀量-1.42~-19.08m~3/m·a。综合分析显示,人类海岸工程建设、区域海洋水文条件及输砂量减少,是河北省发生海岸侵蚀发生的主要原因。     

Morphological, bathymetric and sedimentological surveys used to assess the coastline defensive measures

This paper outlines the results of a study recently carried out on the western coast of the Sestri Levante peninsula (Eastern Liguria-Italy), aiming to assess the effects of newly accomplished defensive measures against coastal erosion: the accretion of the beach with natural sand and its protection with artificial structures orthogonal and parallel to the shoreline. Through conventional and more innovative methodologies (respectively single beam echo sounders and global positioning system) the research work has resulted in a new evaluation of the morphological, bathymetric and sedimentological features that make up this shoreline and its volumetrical change over the century. The survey and the research carried out on the studied area have enabled us to give a more detailed picture of the evolution of the littoral, to assess the possible use of “non-traditional” techniques of beach development monitoring, to evaluate the volumetric variations of the emerged and submerged beaches, to establish the sedimentological activity of the beach after the latest nourishment measures, and finally, to verify the effectiveness of the protection measures implemented on this coastline. The acquired data have been stored in the database and a geographic information system has been used to process, analyze, and evaluate the results. The main findings show that the latest intervention has brought about a new phase in the evolution of the coastline, giving rise to a new pseudo-balanced condition. The re-distribution of materials used for the beach nourishment, leads us to believe that the defence underwater barrier has only partially worked. The main conclusion for a correct coastal zone management underline the necessity to plan local and more wide monitoring during at least 8–10 consecutive years.     

Beach and nearshore morphodynamic changes of the Tabarka coast,Northwest of Tunisia

Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics.     

An analysis of beach profile changes subsequent to the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project,Sri Lanka

Man-made coastal structures directly affect sediment balance and sediment dynamics on the surrounding beaches. The Colombo Harbor Expansion Project has created about 5-km-long breakwater nearly perpendicular to the beach. The present study is focused on quantitatively and qualitatively analyzing the effect of the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project on economically important beaches in and around Colombo city area. In this study, the authors measured monthly variations of beach width, beach profile and the mean grain-size of the sediments at mean sea level for complete annual monsoon cycle. Data were analyzed to establish site-specific erosion vulnerability. Monitoring results show that cumulative beach erosion has increased after the construction of the breakwater (rate = 0.7 m/year from May 2000 to April 2011 and rate = 28.2 m/year from April 2011 to June 2012). In addition, the cumulative and site-specific sand accretion and erosion patterns have a clear relationship with the monsoon seasonality. Beaches were narrower during the stormy southwestern monsoon, whereas beaches were wider during fair weather of northeast monsoon and inter-monsoon periods. In contrast, the constructed breakwater obstructs natural longshore sediment dynamics. For example, a significant amount of sediments from the Kelani-Ganga River were buried in the Colombo Harbor due to alteration of prominent longshore sediments transportation on the western coast of Sri Lanka. Therefore, this study shows enhancement of coastal erosion in the studied southern beaches due to a lack of sediment deposition.     

河口三角洲海岸侵蚀及防护措施浅析——以黄河三角洲及长江三角洲为例

进入20世纪50年代以来,我国海岸侵蚀日趋明显,一些海岸带资源或油田设施遭到破坏。针对我国黄河三角洲和长江三角洲海岸线的侵蚀现状,分析了我国海岸线侵蚀的主要因素:河流泥沙减少;海平面的上升或海洋动力因素增强以及人为因素的影响。并对目前我国所采用的海岸防护措施进行了分析。提出了我国海岸防护工程类型较多,应根据海岸侵蚀的特点采用不同的措施或多种形式组合,因势利导,使工程达到最好的防护效果。     

A Modeling Approach to Assess the Key Factors in the Evolution of Coastal Systems: the Ebro North Hemidelta Case

One-Line shoreline evolution models have been used as a tool to understand and forecast long-term coastal evolution. However, in some coastal environments, where the influence of the wind is important, the limitations of existing models preclude its direct application to characterize its effect on sediment transport processes. To fill this knowledge gap, we have developed a shoreline evolution model that includes the effect of wind on longshore sediment transport and accounts for beach-dune sedimentary exchange due to aeolian transport. The model produces quantitative estimates of sediment transport and exchanges rates alongshore, easing the assessment of the role of different forcing agents in coastline evolution. The model was applied to the Ebro north hemidelta coast. The results are used to discuss the relative importance of the wind interaction in the evolution of different coastline stretches. Aeolian sand transport at Riumar Beach could cause coastal erosion. At the rectilinear coast, aeolian exchange does not seem to influence the shoreline evolution but the wind-current interaction does. The model provides valuable data when considering the approach to be taken regarding conservation measures. Alongshore aeolian sediment transport can be useful when designing and placing aeolian sediment traps. Conservation of the Ebro north hemidelta coast needs to focus on increasing the river sediment supply. The application herein presented can be regarded as a first step in understanding wave and wind coupling effects in shoreline evolution.     

Coastal vulnerability to wave storms of Sele littoral plain (southern Italy)

This paper presents a new method for coastal vulnerability assessment (CVA), which relies upon three indicators: run-up distance (as a measurement of coastal inundation), beach retreat (as a measurement of potential erosion), and beach erosion rate (obtained through the shoreline positions in different periods). The coastal vulnerability analysis of Sele Coastal Plain to storm impacts is examined along a number of beach profiles realized between 2008 and 2009. This particular study area has been selected due to its low-lying topography and high erosion propensity. Results are given in terms of an impact index, performed by combining the response due to coastal inundation, storm erosion, and beach erosion rate. This analysis is implemented on the basis of morphosedimentary characteristics of the beach, wave climate evaluation, and examination of multitemporal aerial photographs and topographic maps. The analysis of the final results evidences different coastal responses as a function of the beach width and slope, which in turn depend on the local anthropization level. The comparison of this method with a Coastal Vulnerability Index method evidences the better attitude of CVA index to take into account the different beach features to explain the experienced damages in specific stretches of the coastline considered.     

The structure and development of foredunes on a locally prograding coast: insights from ground-penetrating radar surveys, Norfolk, UK

The internal structure of coastal foredunes from three sites along the north Norfolk coast has been investigated using ground‐penetrating radar (GPR), which provides a unique insight into the internal structure of these dunes that cannot be achieved by any other non‐destructive or geophysical technique. Combining geomorphological and geophysical investigations into the structure and morphology of these coastal foredunes has enabled a more accurate determination of their development and evolution. The radar profiles show the internal structures, which include foreslope accretion, trough cut and fill, roll‐over and beach deposits. Foredune ridges contain large sets of low‐angle cross‐stratification from dune foreslope accretion with trough‐shaped structures from cut and fill on the crest and rearslope. Foreslope accretion indicates sand supply from the beach to the foreslope, while troughs on the dune crest and rearslope are attributed to reworking by offshore winds. Bounding surfaces between dunes are clearly resolved and reveal the relative chronology of dune emplacement. Radar sequence boundaries within dunes have been traced below the water‐table passing into beach erosion surfaces. These are believed to result from storm activity, which erodes the upper beach and dunes. In one example, at Brancaster, a dune scarp and erosion surface may be correlated with erosion in the 1950s, possibly the 1953 storm. Results suggest that dune ridge development is intimately linked to changes in the shoreline, with dune development associated with coastal progradation while dunes are eroded during storms and, where beaches are eroding, a stable coast provides more time for dune development, resulting in higher foredune ridges. A model for coastal dune evolution is presented, which illustrates stages of dune development in response to beach evolution and sand supply. In contrast to many other coastal dune fields where the prevailing wind is onshore, on the north Norfolk coast, the prevailing wind is directed along the coast and offshore, which reduces the landward migration of sand dunes.     

Coastal morphology and beach stability along Thiruvananthapuram,south-west coast of India

Shoreline changes are largely dependent on coastal morphology. South-west coast of India is a high energy coast characterised by monsoon high waves, steep beach face and medium-sized beach sand. Waves are generally from west and west south-west during rough monsoon season and from south-west during fair weather season. Shoreline change along this coast is studied with reference to coastal morphological features. Various morphological features, modifications and chronological positions of shoreline are analysed with the information derived from multidated satellite imageries, toposheets and GPS shoreline mapping along with extended field survey. Image processing and GIS techniques have been used for the analysis of data and presentation of results. Sediment accumulation on the leeward side of artificial structures such as harbour breakwaters and groynes is used as a sediment transport indicator. Artificial structures such as seawalls, groynes and harbour breakwaters modify morphology. Shoreline south of headlands/promontories and breakwaters are stable or accreting due to net northerly longshore sediment transport while erosion tendency is observed on the north side. Lateritic cliffs fronting the sea or with seasonal beach undergo slumping and cliff edge retreat as episodic events. Spits adjoining tidal inlets are prone to shoreline variations due to oscillations of inlet mouth. Interventions in the form of inlet stabilization and construction of coastal protection structures trigger erosion along adjoining coasts. Seawalls constructed along highly eroding coasts get damaged, whereas those constructed along monsoon berm crest with frontal beaches for protection against monsoon wave attack are retained. Fishing gaps within seawalls are areas of severe temporary erosion during rough monsoon season. Accretion or erosion accompanies construction of harbour breakwaters in a stable coastal plain. Close dependence of shoreline changes on morphology necessitates detailed understanding of impacts on morphology prior to introducing any intervention in the coastal zone.     

Holocene evolution of an estuary on a tectonically rising coast: the Pakarae River locality, eastern North Island, New Zealand

Estuarine and beach deposits in the vicinity of the present coastline at Pakarae River record the infilling of an estuary and subsequent development of a sequence of seven marine terraces during Holocene time.

At the maximum of the last glaciation about 18,000 years ago the shoreline at the ancestral Pakarae River was approximately 20 km east of the present shoreline. By about 9000 years BP the sea had transgressed across most of that coastal plain to lie within a few hundred metres of the base of the present coastal hills. Seventeen radiocarbon ages from estuarine deposits record the overall rise in post-glacial sea level, but in the period c. 9500-7000 yrs BP there are reversals to the overall rising trend. Between 9500 and 8500 yrs BP there appears to have been a eustatic fall in sea level of at least 4 m. This observation is supported by data from several other localities around New Zealand. Maximum transgression occurred about 6500–7000 yrs BP when the sea reached the base of hillslopes and an extensive estuary existed behind a barrier bar.

Since that time the barrier bar disappeared, probably due to stranding in an uplift event, and the coastline advanced progressively outward toward its present position. Coastal progradation (sea level regression) and subsequent erosion have occurred in association with episodic large earthquakes at about 6700, 5400, 3910, 2450, 1570, 1000 and 600 yrs BP. The present distribution of terraces has been influenced by coastal erosion, which has removed all trace of some terraces from some areas, and river erosion has modified the marine terraces near the river.     

Coastal erosion in response to wave dynamics operative in Sagar Island, Sundarban delta, India

Coastal erosion at Sagar Island of Sunderban delta, India, has been critically studied. The area is in the subtropical humid region. There are mainly three seasons viz: winter, summer and the monsoon. Different wave dynamic parameters were measured from theodolite observations with leveling staff and measuring gauges during lunar days at two sections of the western and eastern parts of the coastal zone during post-and pre-monsoons. A comparative study was made on the erosion/depositional pattern between the two sections in relation to different hydrodynamic parameters prevailing in these two sections. Plane table mapping was carried out to demarcate the different geomorphic units. The marine coastal landforms show dune ridges with intervening flats bordered by gently sloping beach on one side and a flat beach on the other side. The western part of the beach is mainly sandy; whereas the eastern part is silty and clayey with mud bank remnants. Actual field measurements indicate that the coastal dune belt has retreated to the order by about 20 m since 1985. The eastern part of the beach has lowered by about 2 m since 1985 and the western part was raised almost to the same tune. It is observed that accretion in the western and central parts of the beach took place; whereas severe erosion in the eastern part made the beach very narrow with remnants of mud banks and tree roots. Frequent embankment failures, submergence and flooding, beach erosion and siltation at jetties and navigational channels, cyclones and storm surges made this area increasingly vulnerable.     

Two timescales in beach erosion due to decrease in sediment sources with special reference to the formation and reduction of the delta of the Kurobe River flowing into the Japan sea

Beach erosion has advanced in many countries of the world, especially in Japan, because of a decrease in sediment sources from rivers and a lack of longshore sediment transport from the adjacent coasts due to coastal structures. The former cause concerns the reduction of river deltas due to a decrease in sediment input from the river. Two timescales important in beach erosion, a longer timescale which concerns a change in the location of the river mouth, and a shorter one which is due to a decrease in longshore sediment transport, are discussed in the formation and reduction of the delta of the Kurobe River. Based on these timescales, beach erosion control is considered.     

Coastal changes along the coast of Vere, Jamaica over the past two hundred years: data from maps and air photographs

Analysis of air photographs and maps indicates complex patterns of shoreline changes along the south coast of Vere, Jamaica, between the mouths of the Rio Minho and Milk River. These include up to half a kilometre of shore-normal coastal recession between 1941 and 1991, the largest known shoreline change in Jamaica over the past 60 years. Previously, the coastline had been prograding seawards from a low cliff cut into the Rio Minho alluvial fan, in the process constructing a shore-parallel ridge and lagoon complex. The cliff itself is evidence of earlier coastal erosion. Maps published in 1804 and 1885 confirm the mobility of this coastline in historical times. They suggest that the more easterly complex of shore-parallel lagoons was constructed prior to about 1880, while the more recent, westerly beach ridges developed, at least partly, from progressive destruction of the lagoon complex, following a change in orientation of the Rio Minho mouth in the late 19th Century. Photographs of 1999 indicate the onset of accretion, probably resulting from the gradual onshore movement of massive quantities of sediment deposited off the Rio Minho mouth during the extreme flood event of 1986 and several lesser events in 1988 and the 1990s.     

海南博鳌玉带沙海滩冲淤演变及脆弱性分析

玉带沙是海南岛东部博鳌万泉河口的一条细长沙嘴,也是我国重要旅游海滩之一。为了揭示近期玉带沙的冲淤演变趋势,选择了1988年以来4个年份的RS图像,利用现场GPS监测的海滩地形推算出校正后的低潮位水边线,并使用GIS软件计算各年份低潮线以上的玉带沙面积。结果表明：1988～2005年玉带沙呈显著蚀退趋势,平均蚀退70m（4.1m/a）,面积减少35%。分析认为：玉带沙蚀退主要原因是海平面上升和万泉河入海泥沙的减少。在气候变化与人类活动的双重作用下,玉带沙呈现高度脆弱性,值得关注。     

Environmental impacts of Baltim and Ras El Bar shore-parallel breakwater systems on the Nile delta littoral zone,Egypt

This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems.     

Beach dynamics and oscillations of shoreline position in recent years at Miramar Beach,Goa, India: a study from a GPR survey

Consideration of human influences is crucial to understanding the coastal sediment supply and associated shoreline responses prior to undertaking coastal hazard management studies. Observation of the widening of some selected Indian beaches, especially over the last 6 decades, is of significance. From this perspective, Miramar Beach, Goa, India, was studied using three ground-penetrating radar shallow subsurface profiles (4 m depth). Based on a series of depositional siliciclastic packages, six progradational packages were recognised, which were interrupted by sharp erosional boundaries. These erosional boundaries represent transgressive phases of the shoreline migration. It was observed that the shoreline migration is coupled with the deposition and erosion of sediments, and this is supported by the historical admiralty charts. The optically simulated luminescence dating of the sediments collected at the first progradation period reveals that the age corresponds to the years 1952–1957, which also corroborates the information provided by the local populace. In the past 6 decades, the shoreline growth has been rapid because of the heavy sediment influx from the Mandovi River caused by increased mining activities (since the 1950s) in upstream areas. Since the 1950s, the shoreline has prograded rapidly, building a beach from ~40 to ~280 m wide (average rate of 4 m/year) in response to enhanced sediment supply from the Mandovi River created by mining activities upstream. Superimposed on this overall regressive trend is a series of deposition and erosion cycles. Perhaps, if a similar trend continues, then there will possibly be a further widening of the beach in the future. A close monitoring network is needed to understand the causes of the cycles in shoreline position and to predict their future behaviour. The present investigation on the nature of the coastal response to anthropogenic activities in a river basin as well as the role of short-time cycles on shoreline behaviour in the last 6 decades could be an ideal reference study and motivate the search for similar areas along other coastal locations.     

三沙湾海岸线时空演变

海岸带是海陆之间的过渡区域,是人类活动和经济发展较为活跃的地区。海岸线时空演变研究对海岸带资源开发与保护有重要意义,但国内外对三沙湾海岸线时空演变研究较少。本文基于25 a的卫星遥感资料,解译出4个时相的三沙湾海岸线,定量分析海岸线变化趋势,并研究海岸线演变的主要因素。研究表明,25 a的三沙湾海岸线总体长度呈增长趋势：1988-1996年岸线总长度变化不大;2003年较1996年增加约6 947 m、增长约11.5%;2003-2013年岸线总长度增加较为明显,2013年较2003年增加约24 128 m、增长约39.6%,其增速约为1996-2003的3.4倍。砂质岸线长度基本稳定,基岩和泥质岸线长度有所减少,人工岸线在逐年增加,这主要是滩地围垦、港口建设和海岸人工改造等人为因素造成的。     

Computer application on evaluating beach sediment erosion and accretion from profile survey data

Handling and visualizing of beach profile data using visual programming provides better and more user-friendly effects to geologists, environmentalists, and policy makers. Several computer programs are available to visualize beach profile data. But in all programs, the raw field data cannot be used to calculate the sediment erosion and accretion. In this report, we describe the development of a simple piece of software BEACH using Visual Basic 6.0 that can store and analyze large volumes of profile survey data obtained from graduated pole or level surveys. The program precisely calculates the beach width, slope, and sediment volume above any user-specified datum. It also estimates the erosion and accretion made in a beach. This program is very useful for coastal zone management and environmental impact assessment studies.     

Coastal erosion in Shandong of China: status and protection challenges

Shandong has more than 70% of natural coasts are under erosion. Coastal erosion started from the 1970’s and became a very serious problem at 1990’s. The dramatic decrease of sediment supplies from rivers caused rapid erosion at the delta and estuary areas, especially in the abandoned Yellow River Delta. Most sandy coasts along the Peninsula were eroded due to lack of sand supply and interruption of alongshore sediment drift, sand dredging from the beach or the offshore area caused serious erosion during short time. Sea-level rise causes slow but constant shoreline retreats and became a more serious threat. Different types of hard solutions for coastal protection against erosion were used in Shandong. Seawalls are most widely used, especially at the Yellow River Delta and city center waterfront. Groynes, jetties and breakwater are used on the north and east sandy coast of the Peninsula. Hard approaches are effective to protect the coast erosion but not change the erosion causes and led secondary impact on the coast. Soft engineering solution or the combined solutions are taken into acts. Beach nourishment is mostly considered as the better soft solution, especially to those tourists attracting sandy beaches along the Shandong coast. Long term monitoring and continuous lessons learning from the coastal erosion management will be adaptive for better coast solution in the future.