Wave Run-up on A Vertical Seawall Protected by An Offshore Submerged Barrier

Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave run-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave run-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall.     

Experimental investigation of tsunami bore impact pressure on a perforated seawall

Catastrophic failures of many tsunami barriers along the affected coasts during the 2011 Tohoku earthquake tsunami has prompted extensive investigation into improving and revising design codes for tsunami defence structures. To date, researchers and coastal engineers are investigating to understand the failure mechanisms and to find solutions so that the structures merely remain intact in the extreme event such as tsunami. Thus, the present work is motivated to experimentally study tsunami-induced bore pressures exerted on vertical seawalls; a solid vertical wall and a porous vertical seawall that consisted of a perforated front wall and a solid rear wall. Bores with various heights and velocities were generated by using the dam-break method. A porous seawall with 20% porosity of perforated front wall was used in this study. Bore pressures exerted on the solid rear wall and chamber oscillations that occurred in the experiments were also discussed. The experimental results showed that multiple peak pressures were observed during bore run-up phase in the time series of bore impacts. A predictive equation to estimate the maximum bore pressure on a perforated seawall was developed using multiple regression analysis. The proposed equation was also compared with previous empirical formulas.     

Numerical investigation on the dynamics of a vertical wall defenced by an offshore breakwater

The numerical and experimental investigations on the performance of an offshore-submerged breakwater in reducing the wave forces and wave run-up on vertical wall are presented. A two-dimensional finite-element model is employed to study the hydrodynamic performance of the submerged breakwater under the action of regular and random waves. The numerical prediction has been supported with experimental measurements. The wave forces and wave run-up on the vertical wall were measured for different breakwater configurations. The applicability of linear theoretical model in the prediction of wave forces on the wall by a submerged breakwater has been discussed.     

Wave Run-up on A Vertical Seawall Protected by An Offshore Submerged Barrier

Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave run-up is further analyzed ...     

Forecast of wave run-up on coastal structure using offshore wave forecast data

In this paper, first we introduce the wave run-up scale which describes the degree of wave run-up based on observed sea conditions near and on a coastal structure. Then, we introduce a simple method which can be used for daily forecast of wave run-up on a coastal structure. The method derives a multiple linear regression equation between wave run-up scale and offshore wind and wave parameters using long-term photographical observation of wave run-up and offshore wave forecasting model results. The derived regression equation then can be used for forecasting the run-up scale using the offshore wave forecasting model results. To test the implementation of the method, wave run-up scales were observed at four breakwaters in the East Coast of Korea for 9 consecutive months in 2008. The data for the first 6 months were used to derive multiple linear regression equations, which were then validated using the run-up scale data for the remaining 3 months and the corresponding offshore wave forecasting model results. A comparison with an engineering formula for wave run-up is also made. It is found that this method can be used for daily forecast and warning of wave run-up on a coastal structure with reasonable accuracy.     

Wave impacts on structures with rectangular geometries: Part 1. Seawalls

This paper considers steep wave impact on seawalls of various geometries. A simple analytical model for the pressure impulse due to a wave of idealized geometry and dynamics is developed and applied to the following geometries: (a) vertical seawall with a berm, (b) vertical seawall with a ditch at its base and (c) vertical seawall with a block missing (damaged condition).The method uses eigenfunction expansions in each of the rectangular regions that satisfy some of the rigid surface conditions and a simplified free-surface condition. Their unknown coefficients are determined from the impact boundary condition, rigid wall conditions and by matching the values and the horizontal derivatives of the solutions in each rectangular region at their mutual boundary. The method yields the pressure impulse throughout the entire region. The overall impulse and moment impulse on the seawall and a simple model for the uprush of the spray jet after the impact are also presented. The effects of different impact regions and different geometries can therefore be quickly estimated and used to show trends in the results. It is shown that berms generally have a beneficial effect on reducing the impulse, moment impulse and uprush, but not the maximum pressure impulse on the seawall, whereas ditches are generally and sometimes strongly detrimental for all effects except uprush. A missing block in the seawall gives an almost constant or linearly decreasing value inside the gap (depending on the boundary condition applied at the rear of the gap being hard or soft respectively); the soft case can affect the pressure impulse on the front face of the seawall, thereby affecting the impulse and moment impulse.     

Numerical investigations of wave overtopping at coastal structures

Under the numerical modelling work package of the EU funded CLASH project, the time accurate, free surface capturing, incompressible Navier–Stokes solver AMAZON-SC has been applied to study impulsive wave overtopping at Samphire Hoe, near Dover in the United Kingdom. The simulations show that the overtopping process on this vertical, sheet pile, seawall is dominated by impulsive, aerated, near vertical overtopping jets. In order to perform the simulations AMAZON-SC has been extended to incorporate an isotropic porosity model and for validation purposes the solver has been applied to study overtopping of a low crested sea dike and a 10:1 battered wall. The results obtained for the battered wall and Samphire Hoe tests are in good agreement both with predicted overtopping discharges calculated using the UK overtopping manual and with available experimental results.     

Wave run-up and overtopping on smooth and rough slopes of coastal structures

A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators.     

孤立波与带窄缝双箱相互作用模拟研究

针对孤立波与带窄缝双箱的作用问题,应用时域高阶边界元方法建立了二维数值水槽。其中,自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,对瞬时自由表面流体质点采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日法追踪,采用四阶龙格库塔法对下一时刻的自由水面的速度势和波面升高进行更新。采用加速度势法求解物体湿表面的瞬时波浪力。采用推板方法生成孤立波。通过模拟孤立波在直墙上的爬高以及施加在直墙上的波浪力,并与已发表的实验和数值结果对比,验证本数值模型的准确性。通过数值模拟计算研究了窄缝宽度、方箱尺寸对波浪在箱体迎浪侧爬高,窄缝内波面升高,箱体背浪侧透射波高及箱体受波浪荷载的影响。同时研究了有一定时间间隔的双孤立波与带窄缝双箱系统作用问题。     

Benchmark computations of wave run-up on single cylinder and four cylinders by naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver

The benchmark simulations of wave run-up on a fixed single truncated circular cylinder and four circular cylinders are presented in this paper. Our in-house CFD solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU is adopted which is an unsteady two-phase CFD code based on the open source package OpenFOAM. The Navier-Stokes equations are employed as the governing equations, and the volume of fluid (VOF) method is applied for capturing the free surface. Monochromatic incident waves with the specified wave period and wave height are simulated and wave run-up heights around the cylinder are computed and recorded with numerical virtual wave probes. The relationship between the wave run-up heights and the incident wave parameters are analyzed. The numerical results indicate that the presented naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver can provide accurate predictions for the wave run-up on one fixed cylinder and four cylinders, which has been proved by the comparison of simulated results with experimental data.     

孤立波低顶海堤越浪的数值模拟研究

灾害性波浪是中国沿海地区最具破坏性的自然灾害之一。采用开源程序OpenFOAM中interFoam求解器,对低顶海堤（在风暴潮和海平面上升情况下所面临的不利工况）的孤立波越浪特性开展数值模拟研究。通过孤立波冲击海堤的基准算例,验证模型在模拟波浪爬升和越浪过程中大变形波面以及剧烈波浪力方面的精度。基于验证的数值模型,对孤立波在低顶海堤上的越浪特征以及防浪墙高度对越浪的影响开展参数化研究。结果表明堤顶超高减小导致更为剧烈的越浪。针对尚无低顶海堤孤立波越浪量经验公式的问题,提出新的适用于堤顶超高小或为0的孤立波越浪量经验公式。此外,研究发现增加防浪墙高度可有效减少越浪,但防浪墙所受的波浪力也增大。综合考虑防浪墙减少越浪以及自身所受波浪力,针对文中研究采用的海堤截面和波浪条件,建议无量纲防浪墙高度取为1.00。     

A coupled numerical model for simulation of wave breaking and hydraulic performances of a composite seawall

A numerical model is developed by combining a porous flow model and a two-phase flow model to simulate wave transformation in porous structure and hydraulic performances of a composite type low-crest seawall. The structure consists of a wide submerged reef, a porous terrace at the top and an impermeable rear wall. The porous flow model is based on the extended Navier-Stokes equations for wave motion in porous media and k−ε turbulence equations. The two-phase flow model combines the water domain with the air zone of finite thickness above water surface. A unique solution domain is established by satisfying kinematic boundary condition at the interface of air and water. The free surface advection of water wave is modeled by the volume of fluid method with newly developed fluid advection algorithm. Comparison of computed and measured wave properties shows reasonably good agreement. The influence of terrace width and structure porosity is investigated based on numerical results. It is concluded that there exist optimum value of terrace width and porosity that can maximize hydraulic performances. The velocity distributions inside and in front of the structure are also investigated.     

片状分布植被对孤立波爬高影响的数值模拟研究

近岸植被对波浪爬坡具有一定的衰减作用。在自然界中，由于植被的死亡、再生或人为破坏等原因，近岸植被通常呈片状分布，且其内部分布也是不均匀的。本文以完全非线性Boussinesq方程为基础，引入植被作用项，建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数值模型，验证了模型可靠性，进而采用该模型模拟分析了片状分布植被对孤立波爬高的影响。数值模拟结果表明，片状分布植被能有效减小孤立波爬高；对于均匀分布的片状植被，高密度片状植被对孤立波爬高的消减效果优于低密度片状植被；对于相同密度、不同分布形式的片状植被，均匀分布的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于不均匀分布的片状植被；对于不均匀分布的片状植被，前密后疏的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于前疏后密的片状植被。     

基于粘性流模型的筒型基础防波堤波浪力数值分析

筒型基础防波堤是一种新型港口海岸工程结构,其基础上部是由连续排列的圆筒构成的直立防浪墙.采用粘性流数值模型,研究连续圆筒防波堤上波浪力竖向分布、水平(沿圆筒环向)分布和波浪力合力特性,并对粘性流数值模型计算的平面直墙波浪力与海港水文规范方法计算结果;粘性流数值模型计算的连续圆筒墙面波浪力与平面直墙波浪力;无限长连续圆筒墙面波浪力与有限长连续圆筒墙面波浪力进行比较分析.针对所选工程算例,建议按<海港水文规范>中平面直墙波浪力计算方法确定连续圆筒防波堤上的波浪力时,波峰时考虑0.90左右的折减系数,波谷时考虑0.95左右的折减系数.     

海堤坡角变化对海啸波传播过程影响数值分析

针对近岸海域极端海况的防灾减灾问题,准确模拟追踪海啸波传播过程,再现液面局部射流、崩破波等波面湍动现象。建立SPH数值水槽,边界条件基于固壁粒子法,减少海堤坡角改变对计算域精度的影响,讨论粒子间距设置对模拟精度的影响。模拟7种不同海堤坡角下波浪的爬高与衰减情况,讨论了海堤坡角变化对消波系数的影响。当粒子间距设置为0.002 m时,模型能准确地捕捉海啸波的强非线性现象。随着海堤坡角增大,海啸波峰值爬升率增大,波浪越堤后因崩破波的产生,波能衰减进一步加剧。当坡角较小时,消波系数随坡角的增大提升明显,而后趋于缓慢增长。     

Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

This paper considers the numerical simulation of nonlinear wave run-up within a highly accurate Boussinesq-type model. Moving wet–dry boundary algorithms based on so-called extrapolating boundary techniques are utilized, and a new variant of this approach is proposed in two horizontal dimensions. As validation, computed results involving the nonlinear run-up of periodic as well as transient waves on a sloping beach are considered in a single horizontal dimension, demonstrating excellent agreement with analytical solutions for both the free surface and horizontal velocity. In two horizontal dimensions cases involving long wave resonance in a parabolic basin, solitary wave evolution in a triangular channel, and solitary wave run-up on a circular conical island are considered. In each case the computed results compare well against available analytical solutions or experimental measurements. The ability to accurately simulate a moving wet–dry boundary is of considerable practical importance within coastal engineering, and the extension described in this work significantly improves the nearshore versatility of the present high-order Boussinesq approach.     

Numerical study on cnoidal wave run-up around a vertical circular cylinder

A finite element model of Boussinesq-type equations was set up, and a direct numerical method is proposed so that the full reflection boundary condition is exactly satisfied at a curved wall surface. The accuracy of the model was verified in tests. The present model was used to further examine cnoidal wave propagation and run-up around the cylinder. The results showed that the Ursell number is a nonlinear parameter that indicates the normalized profile of cnoidal waves and has a significant effect on the wave run-up. Cnoidal waves with the same Ursell number have the same normalized profile, but a difference in the relative wave height can still cause differences in the wave run-up between these waves. The maximum dimensionless run-up was predicted under various conditions. Cnoidal waves hold entirely distinct properties from Stokes waves under the influence of the water depth, and the nonlinearity of cnoidal waves enhances rather than weakens with increasing wavelength. Thus, the variations in the maximum run-up with the wavelength for cnoidal waves are completely different from those for Stokes waves, and there are even significant differences in the variation between different cnoidal waves.     

Tsunami-like solitary waves impinging and overtopping an impermeable seawall: Experiment and RANS modeling

This study investigates tsunami-like solitary waves impinging and overtopping an impermeable trapezoidal seawall on a 1:20 sloping beach. New laboratory experiments are performed for describing three typical cases: a turbulent bore rushes inland and subsequently impacts and overtops the seawall (Type 1); a wave directly collapses on the seawall and then generates overtopping flow (Type 2); and, a wave straightforwardly overtops the seawall crown and collapses behind the seawall (Type 3). A two-dimensional volume of fluid (VOF) type model called the COBRAS (COrnell BReaking And Structure) model, which is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and the k–ε turbulence closure solver, is validated by experimental data and then applied to investigate wave dynamics for which laboratory data are unavailable. Additionally, a set of numerical experiments is conducted to examine the dynamic wave acting force due to waves impacting the seawall. Effects of wave nonlinearity and freeboard are elucidated. Special attention is given to a distinct vortex evolutionary behavior behind the seawall, in which the dynamic properties of entrapped air-bubbles are briefly addressed experimentally and numerically.     

Stochastic analysis of the second-order hydrodynamic quantities for offshore structures

The present study considers the prediction of extreme values of the second-order hydrodynamic parameters related to offshore structures in waves, where the application of Gaussian distribution is not valid. Particularly, this study focuses on a characteristic function approach in the frequency domain to estimate the probability distribution of the second-order quantities, and the results are compared with direct simulations in the time domain. The stochastic behaviors of the second-order hydrodynamic quantities are investigated with the characteristic function approach, which involves eigenvalue analyses of Hermitian kernels constructed with quadratic transfer functions. Three different second-order responses are considered: the springing responses of TLP tendons representative of the sum-frequency problem, the slow-drift motions of a semi-submersible platform moored in waves as a representative of the difference-frequency problem, and the wave run-up around a vertical column for regular and irregular waves. The applicability of the present approach in predicting extreme values is assessed by comparing the results with the values obtained from time-domain signals.     

Wave interaction with tension leg platforms

The design of deep water offshore platforms requires the analysis of wave-structure interaction phenomena which have not been as critical for shallower water platform designs. In the case of tension leg platforms (TLPs) interaction phenomena such as wave run-up on the vertical legs and the amplification of the waves beneath the deck are major design considerations. The research investigation reported here focuses on a series of small scale wave tank tests on four column TLP models examining these phenomena. The role of vertical leg spacing and comparative tests of the TLP models with and without pontoons was investigated. As the vertical legs were moved closer an increase in wave run-up and a shifting of the incident wave period corresponding to the maximum wave upwelling were noted. Comparisons with wave measurements for single cylinders from previous experimental studies and the TLP configurations used in this study are presented. A design formula for estimating wave run-up on TLPs is suggested based upon these experiments. The wave run-up on a leg directly in the wake of another leg is presented. A comparison of the wave upwelling measurements with previously published numerical results are discussed. A wave uplift force model which allows for the inclusion of the experimentally obtained wave upwelling measurements is presented and discussed with regard to the design specification of platform deck elevation.