元洪港设计波高参数的推算和分析

根据福建元洪港无长期海浪和风观测资料及该水域的多岛礁地形的特征，以邻近的平潭海洋站３０ａ实测海浪资料，采用考虑底摩擦效应的浅水波浪折射数值模式进行港区设计波高计算，并与港工程规范算法相比较，得出码头，航道口门和航道中段的设计波高参数。     

浅水波浪变形数学模型与淤泥质海岸底摩擦系数的确定

波浪是主要的海岸动力因素之一。港口及海岸工程多位于浅水区,工程的规划设计工作需要确定相应的浅水波要素。根据历史天气图推算所得的常是深水处的波要素或波浪观测点是位于不同的水深处,所以需要进行浅水波浪要素的推算。本文选择的浅水波浪变形数学模型考虑了波浪在浅水区传播过程由于水深变化而引起波浪折射和由于底摩擦波能损耗而引起波高衰减。本模型假设波动为线性简谐波。波浪在浅水区传播过程由于底部摩擦,沿程波能逐渐衰减。因此当波浪在浅水中传播距离较长时要考虑底摩擦波能损耗的影响。本文引用连云港-16米和-5米深浅水同步观测的波浪资料,进行了确定淤泥质海岸底摩擦系数的研究工作。对于采用H～T组合进行计算建议取底摩擦系数f=0.01。     

近岸波浪浅水变形的非线性分析

本文就近岸波浪具有非线性特征提出了应用椭圆余弦波理论来研究波浪浅水变形的非线性问题。本文在椭圆余弦波数值计算的基础上，进一步分析了浅水波浪在ＨＬ~２／Ｄ~３＞２６情形下波高的变化规律，其中考虑了床面底摩擦、底坡和传质水流等因素对波高变化的影响及相应的程度分析。计算结果分析表明，浅水波浪的非线性性质和底部摩擦对波高变化的影响不能忽略，这对确定海岸工程标高有较大的实际意义和经济价值。     

非线性效应对浅水水波变形的影响

本文采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程建立了一个考虑非线性作用的浅水水波变形数值模型,模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能守恒方程一起来求解波浪在浅水中变形的波浪要素,在波能守恒方程中考虑了底摩擦的影响。利用本文提出的数值模型对一个斜坡浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象进行了验证,验证计算中用一个非线性经验弥散关系近似浅水水波变形的非线性效应并与用线性弥散关系的计算结果进行了比较,结果说明使用非线性     

日照帆船港港域波高的数值计算

考虑波浪的浅水变化、折射、绕射、反射和破碎等现象的影响,以文氏谱作为输入谱,建立了浅水区域随机波浪传播变形的改进数值模型。对日照帆船港港域波高的数值计算结果表明:在没有越浪的情况下,计算值与物理模型试验观测值吻合。改进的数值模型成为求解港口水域波高的1种有效方法。     

复杂地形下海浪数值模式的特征线计算格式

LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式是一种第三代海浪数值模式，通过求解波数谱平衡方程，并考虑风输入、波浪破碎耗散、底摩擦耗散、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用等源函数，模拟波数空间下的海浪方向谱，并依此获得海浪的波高、周期和平均波向。该模式的一个显著特点是采用特征线嵌入格式求解海浪的传播。在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。为此LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。结果表明，采用该计算方法，能够使数值模拟结果与实测结果很好符合。     

考虑底摩擦的波动折射绕射联合摸式的应用

本文利用考虑底摩擦的简单波折射绕射联合模式计算了某港附近区域中海浪要素.用本文结果与用简单波折射模式计算所得的结果及与1985年一次台风期间的实际观测资料作比较可以看出,用本文给出的模式算得的海浪要素是合理的,计算结果与实际观测相当好地一致.可以断定,这种模式对于计算复杂海底地形上的近岸波要素是有效的.     

综合考虑多种变形因素的近岸规则波传播数学模型Ⅰ. 基本方程的导出

推广了Kirby的有环境水流影响的缓坡方程,得到了综合考虑环境水流(水流因子)、非线性弥散影响(非线性因子)、底摩擦波能损失(底摩擦因子)、非缓坡地形影响(地形因子)、折射、绕射、波浪破碎多种变形因素的波浪传播控制方程,并给出了非线性因子、地形因子、底摩擦因子、水流因子的确定方法。基于导出的方程做进一步推导,得到了波高和波向为变量的综合考虑多种变形因素的波浪传播基本方程,该方程有许多优点:1)其绕开了求解波势函数的困难,将椭圆型方程的边值问题化为初值问题;2)直接求解波高和波向;3)可采用有限差分法离散求解,对空间步长没有限制,适合大面积海区波场计算;4)综合考虑了多种波浪变形因素,方程更为合理,5)容易处理波浪破碎问题。     

BSCS海浪数值预报方法

本文介绍一种适用于深、浅海的海浪数值预报模式——BSCS模式,它不仅考虑了波-波间非线性能量转移,而且包含了折射、底摩擦等浅水效应,因而具有广泛的应用性。为了求解这一方程,将计算区域依水深不同划分为不规则的三角形元,计算每个格点上以△t为时间间隔的离散谱值。时间差分用改进的两步Lax-Wendtcff格式,空间微分用空间中三角形平面对x, y方向的斜度来近似。已知条件为网格点的位置及其水深、风场等,通过计算机计算所得到的结果为方向-频率谱(或浪要素)的时空分布。     

埕岛油田海域波—底相互作用

基于1976，1993年埕岛油田海域测深资料，应用HISWA浅水海浪数值计算模式，研究风暴浪入侵该海域导致的波-底相互作用后果。数值计算结果表明，海区固定点海底冲刷导致波场强化；波参数增量与冲刷深度有关；海底水质点轨道流速峰值，底摩擦耗散峰值及临界波高值相对水深分布均表明，该海域深水区海底冲刷将减弱，浅水区海底冲刷将加强。     

多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟

在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型,综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论,将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后,分别计算各组成波的传播变形,再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解,计算效率高,稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证,数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟,给出了合理的港内波高分布。     

港池中波浪折射、绕射的数值模拟方法

从流体运动方程和动量方程出发,引入海底摩擦力和港池不完全反射作用,推导出了Berkhoff折射、绕射方程。在深海部分解析方法用精确解(含待定系数)、在复杂地形用数值离散方法求解,中间过度段用的光滑匹配将离散数值(有限元)和解析解(精确解)一同求解。通过极值问题建立泛函,利用泛函的驻定性将海岸(港湾)问题进行数值离散,建立了可行的数值模拟模型。     

Wave refraction in the southern North Sea

The computerised model on surface wave refraction by Wilson (1966) is applied to the topographic data of the southern North Sea. A series of wave refraction diagrams has been produced and the refraction coefficients are evaluated from these diagrams. It is found that there is an agreement between these refraction coefficients and the coefficients calculated from wave data obtained at various stations in the same area. Both the model and the data suggest that the area of wave ray convergence is highly coherent with the area of concentrated wave energy in which the higher waves are detected.It is the purpose of this paper to demonstrate the relationship between the theoretically derived model and the real data obtained in the southern North Sea where the bottom topography provides a pronounced refraction effect on surface waves as well as to show some spatial variation of wave height in that area.     

Parabolic Approximation of the Weakly Nonlinear Mild Slope Equation with Bottom Friction

This paper presents a refined parabolic approximation model of the mild slope equation to simu-late the combination of water wave refraction and diffraction in the large coastal region.The bottom frictionand weakly nonlinear term are included in the model.The difference equation is established with the Crank-Nicolson scheme.The numerical test shows that some numerical prediction results will be inaccurate in com-plicated topography without considering weak nonlinearity;the bottom friction will make wave height damp-ing and it can not be neglected for calculation of wave field in large areas.     

减少航道外波浪集聚对策研究

进港航道开挖引起波能重新分布 ,导致航道外近区域波能聚集 ,波高增大 ,从而影响防波堤稳定及港内泊稳条件。文章介绍了 Boussinesq方程的推导过程和发展过程 ,基于深水和缓变地形的色散关系 ,建立了波浪数学模型。该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射。并提出了减少波能聚集、降低堤前波高的多种措施。结合大窑湾港实际工程 ,经过多方面的数物模比选 ,利用数学模型优化出一种可行的喇叭口航道开挖方案并付诸实施 ,降低了防波堤的堤前波高 ,满足了预期的设计要求。     

规则波在缓坡上变形与破碎数值分析

通过在二维数值水槽内用边界元法直接求解Laplace方程,对规则波在缓坡上的变形及破碎进行了数值计算。分析了不同底坡及采用不同底摩阻系数时规则波的破碎特征,并对规则波破碎的极限坡度进行了研究。重点分析了规则波破碎时海底坡度、底摩阻系数及波形不对称性对破碎指标的影响。     

强台风“珍珠”引起的近岸波浪场数值分析

台风浪的研究对于船舶航行、避风以及港口、海洋和近岸建筑物的安全有着重要的现实意义.本文基于考虑波浪折射、底部损耗及波浪破碎等的波谱模型,在充分考虑风能量输入、白帽耗散、水深诱导以及波-波间的非线性相互作用等物理过程,对袭击广东省和福建省沿海的0601号强台风“珍珠”引起的台风浪过程进行了数值模拟计算,计算结果与云澳海洋...     

An extended time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation with weakly nonlinear amplitude dispersion

In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.     

Calibration and verification of a spectral wind–wave model for Lake Okeechobee

A spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulation WAves Nearshore) that represents the generation, propagation and dissipation of waves was applied to Lake Okeechobee. This model includes the effects of refraction, shoaling, and blocking in wave propagation. It accounts for wave dissipation by whitecapping, bottom friction, and depth-induced wave breaking. The wave–wave interaction effect also is included in this model. Measurements of wind and wave heights were made at different stations and different time periods in Lake Okeechobee. Significant wave height values were computed from the recorded data. The correlation between wind stress and significant wave height also was analyzed. A 6-day simulation using 1989 data was conducted for model calibration. Another 6-day simulation using 1996 data was conducted for model verification. The simulated significant wave heights were found to agree reasonably well with measured significant wave heights for calibration and verification periods. Agreement between observed and simulated values was based on graphical comparisons, mean, absolute and root mean square errors, and correlation coefficient. Comparisons showed that the model reproduced both general observed trends and short term fluctuations.