基于微结构图像的风生微尺度波频率谱初探

利用海面微结构光学测量装置实验获取到的微尺度波图像来给出风生微尺度波的波数谱,在此基础上利用频散关系建立微尺度波波数谱和频率谱之间的关系,最终得到微尺度波频率谱.对微尺度波的频率谱随频率变化的响应进行了研究,发现频率谱与频率的a次方成正比关系,a的值随风速的增加而增加,同一风速下a几乎为定值.     

基于微结构图像的风生微尺度波频率谱初探

利用海面微结构光学测量装置实验获取到的微尺度波图像来给出风生微尺度波的波数谱,在此基础上利用频散关系建立微尺度波波数谱和频率谱之间的关系,最终得到微尺度波频率谱。对微尺度波的频率谱随频率变化的响应进行了研究,发现频率谱与频率的α次方成正比关系,α的值随风速的增加而增加,同一风速下α几乎为定值。     

浅海水下地形的SAR遥感仿真研究

结合连续性方程和布拉格后向散射模型,在准一维简化浅海水下地形情况下,建立了浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度仿真模型,将浅海水下地形区域的SAR海面后向散射强度的相对变化与大尺度背景流场、海面风场和雷达系统参数等联系起来.海上实验和研究结果表明,浅海水下地形的SAR成像主要由通过受水下地形影响的海表层流场对海表面风引起的微尺度波的水动力调制而获取浅海水下地形信息,其中潮流与水下地形的相互作用过程改变海表层流场,变化的海表层流与海表面微尺度波之间的相互作用改变海表面波的空间分布,雷达波与海表面波之间的相互作用决定雷达海面后向散射强度.因此SAR图像中浅海水下地形或水深信息量的多少不仅与海表层流场和海面风速有关,而且与雷达工作波段、雷达波束入射角和极化方式也密切相关.认为由水下地形变化引起的缓慢变化的表层流场中海表面定常微尺度波谱能量密度的变化满足波作用量谱平衡方程;而在波数空间中,海表面微尺度波谱的成长过程也可以用波数谱平衡方程描述,在此基础上,得出了海表面波高频谱(毛细-重力波)形式的解析表达式.众所周知,浅海水下地形信息是由于水下地形影响下SAR海面后向散射强度与背景海面后向散射强度的相对差异而在SAR图像上的呈现,从而在建立浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度仿真模型的基础上,仿真计算了浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度相对于海表层流场、海面风场等海况参数和SAR工作波段、SAR波束入射角、极化方式等雷达系统参数的数值仿真结果,分析得到了有关浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度的特征和SAR浅海水下地形遥感的最佳海况参数与最佳雷达系统参数,为研究和开展SAR浅海水下地形遥感研究提供了有价值的参考.     

基于卫星海面高度资料的太平洋海区涡旋能谱分析

在空间均匀和各向同性的假定下,地转湍流理论认为涡旋动能随尺度分布遵循k–n定律(k为波数)。但实际海洋受边界、地形、层结等,具有明显的非均匀、各向异性特征。鉴于此,我们基于近30a卫星高度计资料,分别计算了热带、副热带、中高纬度等海洋涡旋强度不同区域的海面高度异常(SSHA)波数谱,进而利用线性回归拟合方法估算出中尺度波段上SSHA波数谱的斜率,并与地转湍流理论预测进行了对比。研究结果显示:SSHA波数谱从赤道到中高纬度逐渐变陡,其斜率由–4减到–5,基本符合赤道线性波动理论和准地转湍流理论的预测。SSHA波数谱斜率存在纬向与经向差异,例如在赤道地区,纬向谱比相应的经向谱陡;而在南极绕极流区域,经向谱斜率大于纬向谱斜率。SSHA波数谱斜率的各向异性表明海洋中尺度运动受β效应影响,具有明显的经向和纬向差异。以上结果表明,海洋中尺度运动介于准二维和三维之间,不能用一个全球普适的湍流理论模型来描述。     

机载波谱仪海浪谱反演方法及其验证

为了验证波谱仪反演二维海浪谱的功能,根据海浪波谱仪的信号形成机制,总结了机载波谱仪反演海浪的流程。利用机载波谱仪回波数据,通过自相关和互相关两种功率谱估计方法,反演了二维海浪谱。最后通过与浮标测量的二维海浪谱进行对比,验证了该机载波谱仪探测二维海浪谱的有效性。结果表明,无论采用自相关函数还是互相关函数进行功率谱估计,得到的主波波长和有效波高与实际二维海浪谱基本一致。互相关函数法得到的交叉谱能去除180°模糊现象,其在计算有效波高时相对于自相关函数会稍微偏小。在计算斜率方差时可以采用5°~12°入射角范围的后向散射系数进行公式拟合,因此定标与否并不影响最后的二维海浪谱结果,未来星载波谱仪只有靠多波束联合才能实现。     

浅水海浪压力波谱换算海面波谱

前言浅水海浪谱对于近岸水工建筑是至关重要的.由于海面波浪实测资料的限制,人们往往通过压力波谱换算海面波谱.目前国内外通常按照经典的微小振幅波理论导出的水深的双曲函数对压力波各组成波谱密度进行换算.但是,这样换算的高频段谱密度值随频率增加逐渐偏大,且在低频段(0.2-0.6)所换算的海面波谱密度值与从实测波     

基于文氏改进谱二维海面的电磁散射计算与数据对比

基于文氏谱的功率谱理论,结合Donelan分布函数与文氏方向谱的对比结论,提出了一种基于文氏改进谱的二维粗糙海面模型。在经典的双尺度法计算电磁散射的基础上,将二维随机粗糙海面的电磁散射计算结果与Nathanson数据进行对比,分析了不同海况、擦地角、入射频率下,两种极化方式时文氏改进谱二维随机粗糙海面的电磁散射特性。     

溢油海面的Marangoni效应分析

溢油海面的"Marangoni"效应是指油膜对短重力波和毛细波具有一定的抑制作用,它是SAR区分溢油与清洁海面的物理基础。本文采用Fung&Lee海浪谱和Lombardiniet溢油模型,定量分析了归一化溢油因子对波高斜率均方根的影响;根据海浪的Longuet-Higgins模型,仿真了溢油海面和清洁海面的波高样本,验证了油膜对短重力波和毛细波具有一定的抑制作用。     

基于回声状态网络的海浪谱实时预报方法

为实现在非线性较强情况下的海浪谱预报,以船载测波雷达实船测量的海浪谱数据为基础,将经验模态分解(EMD)和回声状态神经网络(ESN)相结合,对海浪谱的实船实时预报方法进行了研究。所提方法利用经验模态分解对子波谱密度值时间序列进行分解,并对分解后各分量分别应用回声状态神经网络进行预报。将预报结果进行叠加,可以得到子波谱密度的预报值,进一步可合并得到整个海浪谱信息。结果表明:该方法可以有效解决非线性较强情况下预报效果变差的问题。方法可为船舶实时掌握海浪谱信息,提高船载测波雷达系统的实用性提供一定的基础。     

异常事件对EMD方法的影响及其解决方法研究

作者指出异常事件在数据中形成局部的高频信号 ,运用经验模态分解 (EMD)方法分析这种存在异常事件干扰的数据 ,就会产生本征模函数 (IMF)的频率混叠现象 ,而造成物理过程的重叠 ,使得难以用时间过程曲线表现特定的物理过程。这一问题是 EMD方法中尚未妥善解决的问题。为解决这一问题 ,作者利用干扰信号极值及其两边的极大与极小值位置与原始数据有明显对应关系的特征 ,将相关 IMF中的异常信息直接滤除 ,再用 Spline插值方法弥补滤除时段的数据 ,得到重新拟合的该 IMF数据。采用这种方法可以提取出异常信号 ,提取的精度与异常信号的时段长度有关。而且 ,拟合结果消除了异常干扰 ,可以将该 IMF与其余 IMF一起叠加成没有异常干扰的数据。将滤除了异常干扰的数据再次进行 EMD分解 ,可以得到新的 IMF系列 ,而它与不加校正的分解结果有相当大的差别 ,可靠地反映了真实物理过程。结果表明 ,只有在有效滤除异常干扰的情况下才能获得可靠的 IMF系列 ,并准确地描述各种尺度的现象 ;消除了异常干扰的 IMF可以任意单独或组合使用 ,表现各种时间尺度的变化与过程 ;所讨论的方法只适合异常时段较小的情形。对于异常时段接近或大于正常变化周期的干扰还需要探讨其他方法     

Long waves in directional seas

In recent years the group-induced long waves have received an enhanced degree of attention. Especially in nearshore regions, the long waves can be of considerable height, and consequently the influence on harbour resonance, on the operation of ship terminals, on moorings of large vessels, etc. is obviously very important. It is the grouping of natural wave fields that generates the long waves, and they are proportional to the square of the short-wave height. Therefore, the expressions for the long-wave elevations can be found to include the short-wave components of the wave field and a second-order transfer function. This function is presented in a diagram with dimensionless parameters. For practical purposes a formula for rough estimate of the long-wave height is proposed.The second-order equations show that the long waves are determined by the difference of the wave-number vectors of the short waves. This is shown to imply that the spread of the long waves is larger than that of the short waves, and that the wave lengths of the long waves are dependent on the short-wave spread. Hereby it is possible to change the long-wave lengths, which seems to be a quality of great practical importance.The long waves are also expressed in spectral terms. That is, a formula for the directional long-wave spectrum is shown to comprise the transfer function squared and the short-wave amplitudes and phases.     

Analytic study to wave scattering by a general Homma island using the explicit modified mild-slope equation

In this paper, an exact analytic solution in terms of Taylor series to the explicit modified mild-slope equation (EMMSE) for wave scattering by a general Homma island is constructed and the convergence of the series solution is analyzed. To validate the new analytic solution, comparisons are made against the existing solutions including analytic solutions to both the long-wave equation and Helmholtz equation, approximate analytic solutions to the modified mild-slope equation, numerical solutions to the mild-slope equation and experimental solutions. Because of the use of the governing equation EMMSE together with mass-conserving matching conditions along the toe of the shoal, the present model is valid for not only waves in the whole spectrum from long waves to short waves but also bathymetries with the maximal seabed slope being as high as 4.27:1. Since the general Homma island is an extension of the original Homma island, the present solution can be very conveniently used to study the effects of bottom topography on combined refraction and diffraction. It is found that the larger the shoal size is, the more significant the wave amplification against the cylinder is.     

Joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied.     

Effects of three-wave interactions in the gravity-capillary range of wind waves

The formation of the spectrum of short wind waves from the gravity-capillary and capillary ranges under the effect of three-wave interactions is considered. In order to determine the spectrum, the kinetic equation for wave packets is integrated to the point where the solution is established. Three-wave interactions are described by a collision integral without introducing any additional assumptions simplifying the problem. This calculation procedure reproduces the Zakharov-Filonenko theoretical spectra, which correspond to the cases of energy equipartition and the inertial range. It is shown that the main role of three-wave interactions lies in the energy transfer from the range of short gravity waves to waves with shorter wavelengths. This transfer is accomplished both locally in the Fourier space and as a result of interactions between short and long waves. Its characteristic features are the formation of a dip on the curvature spectrum in the region of a minimum phase velocity of waves and the formation of a secondary peak in the capillary range. The dip is filled and disappears as the wind speed increases. Taking into account the interaction between short and long waves increases the spectrum in the capillary range several times, and the balance between energy input from long waves and viscous dissipation is established in the capillary range. The energy sink caused by three-wave interactions, viscous dissipation, and wind forcing cannot give the stability of the spectrum of short gravity waves.     

Runup of the surface waves of various shapes on a sloping beach

In the long-wave approximation, we perform the numerical analysis of the plane problem of runup of waves of various shapes on a sloping beach. We study transformations of the shape of waves flooding the beach and in the course of their subsequent rundown. The dependence of maximum elevations and lowerings of the sea level on the parameters of the waves approaching the beach, the depth of the shelf, and the slope of the bottom are investigated. It is shown that the shape of waves affects the amplitude characteristics of oscillations of the coastline. The heights of the vertical runup of waves incident on a sloping beach can be several times higher than the amplitude of waves entering the shelf zone.     

Spectral evolution of surface waves in a deep sea due to the effect of wave-wave interactions

The wave-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves in a deep sea is solved numerically, using the Runge-Kutta technique. Spectral evolution of waves resulted only from their being non-linear, with no wave generation and decaying taking place. To perform computations the JONSWAP-type frequency spectra and a variety of angular wave spectra were used. The angular spectrum of waves turned out to be stable. The frequency spectrum differed from the JONSWAP spectrum in that it had a high-frequency part, which was not similar to the Phillips spectrum. The form of the high-frequency spectral slope was determined as a result of spectral evolution and proved to have the form of the ‘−6’ law. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Physical model of the spectrum of capillary-gravity waves

A model for the spectrum of capillary waves has been constructed. These waves are generated at the crests of short gravity waves and decay due to viscosity. Capillary wave generation leads to short gravity wave dissipation. Using empirical data on the short gravity wave dissipation spectrum, a relation for the capillary wave spectrum is derived from the equation of energy balance of capillary waves. The capillary wave spectrum is matched with the known Donelan-Pierson spectrum for short gravity waves. The obtained relation for the spectrum of wind-generated ripple is compared with the data of laboratory experiments. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram–Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram–Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data.     

Generation of long barotropic waves by moving baric disturbances in a system of basins connected by a channel

We consider long barotropic waves in a system of two rectangular basins connected by a channel in the case where waves are generated by the moving region of disturbances of atmospheric pressure passing above one of the basins. By using a numerical model, we compute the characteristics of the wave process for various values of the parameters of this system. The results of numerical calculations are compared with the corresponding characteristics obtained for the case of a closed basin. We also analyze the distinctive features of long-wave processes induced in the presence of the channel. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev