Numerical Simulation of Waves Generated by Seafloor Movements

Waves generated by vertical seafloor movements are simulated by use of a fully nonlinear two-dimensional numerical wave tank. In the souree region, the seafloor lifts to a designated height by a generation function. The numerical tests show that the linear theory is only valid for estimating the wave behaviors induced by the seafloor movements with a small amplitude, and the fully nonlinear numerical model should be adopted in the simulation of the wave generation by the large amplitude seafloor movements. Without the background surface waves, many numerical tests on the stable maximum elevations η0^max are carried out by beth the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. The results of two models are compared and analyzed. For the fully nonlinear model, the influences of the amplitudes and the horizontal lengths on η^max are stronger than that of the characteristic duration times. Furthermore, results reveal that there are significant differences be- tween the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. When the influences of the background surface waves are considered, the corresponding numerical analyses reveal that with the fully nonlinear model the η0^max near-linearly varies with the wave amplitudes of the surface waves, and the η0^max has significant dependences on the wave lengths and the wave phases of the surface waves. In addition, the differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model are still obvious, and these differences are significantly affected by the wave parameters of the background surface waves, such as the wave amplitude, the wave length and the wave phase.     

海啸波传播的线性和非线性特征及近海陆架效应影响的数值研究

浅水方程被广泛应用于海啸预警报业务及研究,而针对线性浅水方程与非线性浅水方程在不同海区水深地形条件下的适用范围、计算效率问题是海啸研究人员急需了解的。本文应用基于浅水方程的海啸数值预报模型就海啸波在南海、东海传播的线性、非线性特征以及陆架对其传播之影响进行了数值分析研究。海啸波在深水的传播表征为强线性特征,此时线性系统对海啸波幅的模拟计算具有较高的精度和效率,而弱的非线性特征及弱的色散特征对海啸波幅的预报影响甚微,可以忽略不计。海啸波传播至浅水大陆架后受海底坡度变化、海底粗糙度等因素影响,波动的非线性效应迅速传播、积累,与线性浅水方程计算的海啸波相比表现出较大差异,主要表现为:在南海区,水深小于100m时,海啸波首波以后的系列波动非线性特征比较明显,两者波幅差别较大,但首波波幅的区别不大,因此对于该区域在不考虑海啸爬高的情况下,应用线性系统计算得到的海啸波幅也可满足海啸预警报的要求;在东海区由于陆架影响,海啸波非线性特征明显增强,水深小于100m区域,首波及其后系列波波幅均差异较大,故在该区域必须考虑海啸波非线性作用。本文就底摩擦项对海啸波首波波幅的影响进行了数值对比分析,结果表明:底摩擦作用对海啸波首波波幅影响仅作用于小于100m水深。最后,该文通过敏感性试验,初步分析了陆架宽度及陆架边缘深度对海啸波波幅的影响,得出海啸波经陆架传播共振、变形后,海啸波幅的放大或减小与陆架的宽度及陆架边缘水深有关。     

Finite Element Analysis to Two-Dimensional Nonlinear Sloshing Problems

A two-dimensional nonlinear sloshing problem is analyzed by means of the fully nonlinear theory and time domain second order theory of water waves. Liquid sloshing in a rectangular container subjected to a horizontal excitation is sim-ulated by the finite element method. Comparisons between the two theories are made based on their numerical results, It is found that good agreement is obtained for the case of small amplitude oscillation and obvious differences occur for large amplitude excitation. Even though, the second order solution can still exhibit typical nonlinear features of nonlinear wave and can be used instead of the fully nonlinear theory.     

Viscosity and nonlinearity effects on the forces and waves generated by a floating twin hull under heave oscillation

Nonlinear hydrodynamics of a twin rectangular hull under heave oscillation is analyzed using numerical methods. Two-dimensional nonlinear time-domain solutions to both inviscid and viscous problems are obtained and the results are compared with linear, inviscid frequency-domain results obtained in [26] to quantify nonlinear and viscous effects. Finite-difference methods based on boundary-fitted coordinates are used for solving the governing equations in the time domain [2]. A primitive-variables based projection method [6] is used for the viscous analysis and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [11] for inviscid analysis. The algorithms are validated and the order of accuracy determined by comparing the results obtained from the present algorithm with the experimental results of Vugt [22] for a heaving rectangle in the free surface. The present study on the twin-hull hydrodynamics shows that at large and non-resonant regular frequencies, and small amplitude of body oscillation, the fluid viscosity does not significantly affect the wave motion and the radiation forces. At low frequencies however the viscosity effect is found to be significant even for small amplitude of body oscillation. In particular, the hydrodynamic force obtained from the nonlinear viscous analysis is found to be closer to the linear inviscid force than the nonlinear inviscid force to the linear inviscid force, the reason for which is attributed to the wave dampening effect of viscosity. Since the wave lengths generated at smaller frequencies of oscillation are longer and therefore the waves could have a more significant effect on the dynamic pressure on the bottom of the hulls which contribute to the heave force, the correlation between the heave force and the wave elevation is found to be larger at smaller frequencies. Because of nonlinearity, the wave radiation and wave damping force remained nonzero even at and around the resonant frequencies – with the resonant frequencies as determined in [26] using linear potential flow theory. As to be expected, the nonlinear effect on the wave force is found to be significant at all frequencies for large amplitude of oscillation compared to the hull draft. The effect of viscosity on the force, by flow separation, is also found to be significant for large amplitude of body oscillation.     

Consideration of fine-scale coastal oceanography and 3-D acoustics effects for the ESME sound exposure model

Results and recommendations for evaluating the effects of fine-scale oceanographic scattering and three-dimensional (3-D) acoustic propagation variability on the Effects of Sound on the Marine Environment (ESME) acoustic exposure model are presented. Pertinent acoustic scattering theory is briefly reviewed and ocean sound-speed fluctuation models are discussed. Particular attention is given to the nonlinear and linear components of the ocean internal wave field as a source of sound-speed inhomogeneities. Sound scattering through the mainly isotropic linear internal wave field is presented and new results relating to acoustic scattering by the nonlinear internal wave field in both along and across internal wave wavefront orientations are examined. In many cases, there are noteworthy fine-scale induced intensity biases and fluctuations of order 5-20 dB.     

小尺度海底沉积物的声衰减特性研究

为研究小尺度海底沉积物样品的声衰减特性,作者提出了用声学探针测量海底沉积物声波幅值的新方法,对沉积物样品扰动小,两个测量点的距离可小于波长,为海底沉积物微观声衰减测量提供了新手段。作者用小于波长的间隔逐点测量了沉积物的压缩波幅值,数据分析表明沿沉积物柱状样全长的声衰减满足指数衰减模型。目前主要用同轴差距衰减测量法获得海底沉积物声衰减数据,但该方法不能辨识声衰减模型,因此不同海区的测量结果难以建立联系。对此作者又提出用声吸收系数反演的幅值比与声衰减系数反演的R值(两种幅值比的比值)作评价依据,分析了垂直轴差距衰减测量法获得的南海海底沉积物声衰减测量数据,发现部分沉积物样品声衰减的R值远大于1,其声衰减不满足指数衰减模型。在声衰减满足指数衰减模型的条件下,用Hamilton的声衰减和频率经验公式预报的南海沉积物声衰减比与作者用声学探针测量海底沉积物所得的声衰减比对比,通过对R值分析得出Hamilton的声衰减和频率经验公式可以预报南海沉积物声衰减比的范围。作者提出的声学探针测量海底沉积物声衰减的方法的优点是既能获得声衰减数据又能辨识声衰减模型,不同海区测量的沉积物声衰减比可用R值建立联系。     

海水对海洋平台声发射传播特性影响研究

针对海洋平台水下钢结构无损检测的需要,研究在空气、淡水和海水作为耦合介质的情况下,声发射波在钢结构传播过程中幅值和能量的变化趋势,以及幅值和能量损失的原因。基于声发射波反射原理,分析声发射波在钢结构中传播的多径效应及波形转换特性,并解释了时域波形发生分离的原因。根据实验结果,分析了盐度对声发射波传播特性的影响。该项研究为提高海洋平台声发射检测中故障源的精确定位提供了实验依据。     

Modeling of propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current

A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.     

Transformation of a strongly nonlinear wave in a shallow-water basin

The transformation of a nonlinear wave in shallow water is investigated analytically and numerically within the framework of long-wave theory. It is shown that the nonlinearity parameter (the Mach number), which is defined as the ratio of the particle velocity in the wave to the propagation velocity, can be well above unity in a deep trough and that a jump appears initially in the trough. It is demonstrated that shockwave amplitudes at large times change in accordance with the prediction of weakly nonlinear theory. The shock front generates a reflected wave, which, in turn, transforms into a shock wave if the initial amplitude is large enough. The amplitude of the reflected wave is proportional to the cube of the initial amplitude (as predicted by weakly nonlinear theory) over a wide range of amplitudes except for the case of anomalously strong nonlinearity. When there is a sign-variable sufficiently intense initial perturbation, the basic wave transforms into a positive shock pulse (crest) and the reflected wave turns into a negative pulse (trough).     

An integral description of the propagation of steady-state perturbations of the heavy liquid surface

The system of equations of motion describing the gravity wave propagation in a perfect heavy liquid layer is transformed into a new integral equation for the free surface elevations. In the limit cases, this integral equation describes the linear and nonlinear periodic waves as well as the known types of solitary waves. In this case a dispersion equation arises because perturbations of the second and higher orders of smallness are neglected. The integral equation allows for the propagation of invariable surface perturbations of arbitrary forms if their spatial spectrum is concentrated near small wave numbers (compared to the inverse wave amplitude). Several examples of solutions are presented.     

完全非线性深水波的数值模拟

基于势流理论,并结合深水波质点运动从水面向下呈e指数衰减的特性,建立了完全非线性数值变深水槽模型,通过实时模拟活塞式造波机运动来产生波浪.采用时域高阶边界元法进行模拟,利用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法追踪流体瞬时水面,应用镜像格林函数消除了水槽两个侧面的积分,在水槽末端布置人工阻尼层来消除反射...     

A study of internal solitary waves observed on the continental shelf in the northwestern South China Sea

Based on in-situ time series data from the acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and thermistor chain in Wenchang area, a sequence of internal solitary wave (ISW) packets was observed in September 2005, propagating northwest on the continental shelf of the northwestern South China Sea (SCS). Corresponding to different stratification of the water column and tidal condition, both elevation and depression ISWs were observed at the same mooring location with amplitude of 35 m and 25 m respectively in different days. Regular arrival of the remarkable ISW packets at approximately the diurnal tidal period and the dominance of diurnal internal waves in the study area, strongly suggest that the main energy source of the waves is the diurnal tide. Notice that the wave packets were all riding on the troughs and shoulders of the internal tides, they were probably generated locally from the shelf break by the evolution of the internal tides due to nonlinear and dispersive effects.     

基于CFD-FEM的浮式结构水弹性响应数值模拟

开发并验证了一种基于CFD-FEM耦合的弹性浮体水弹性响应计算模拟方法。采用CFD方法建立黏性数值水池模拟非线性波浪，弹性浮板进行有限元离散，并在交界面进行数据交互实现耦合计算；通过与水池试验数据和三维板理论在各种波浪环境下的浮体垂向位移结果对比，证实CFD-FEM耦合方法的有效性。并进一步研究了浮板的厚度、入射波波幅和浮板的三维效应对浮板水弹性响应的影响。结论表明，波幅的增加会加剧弹性浮板的水弹性响应，浮板各点处的垂向位移随波幅的增加而增大；当浮板厚度改变时，不同厚度浮板自由端处的垂向位移差异较小，而在中部等位置处，厚度对浮板的水弹性响应有较大的影响。     

Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect: Random Waves

New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is greatly saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements.     

潜堤后高阶自由谐波的研究

基于高阶边界元方法的完全非线性数值水槽模型模拟潜堤地形上波浪的传播变形,通过与实验值进行比较,考察数学模型的正确性.采用两点法分离得到堤后高倍频自由波来研究入射波参数、水深对堤后高倍频自由波的影响.研究发现:基频波、二阶和三阶自由波幅值分别与入射波波幅成线性、二次和三次函数关系,基频波幅值基本不随波浪周期变化,而二阶和...     

不规则波激励下磁力双稳态波浪能转换装置的能量捕获特性研究

该研究提出了一种新型磁力双稳态机构,主要由一对同向充磁的负刚度磁环,附加一对异向充磁的正刚度磁环组成,可通过调整磁环参数有效改变双稳态装置的势垒高度,从而克服传统型双稳态装置在小幅波浪激励下转换效率低的难题。基于Cummins方程建立了系统的时域非线性动力学模型,其中采用状态空间模型替代了辐射力的卷积积分项用于加快计算速度。采用四阶龙格库塔方法求解动力学方程,获得系统响应解。采用Jonswap波浪谱,研究了不规则波激励下波浪能转换装置的转换效率随双稳态结构参数以及波浪激励参数的变化规律。结果表明,新型磁力双稳态机构在合适参数下可以达到降低势垒高度和拓宽平衡点间距的效果,从而显著提高波能捕获效率,拓宽波能捕获频带,尤其是大幅提高了系统在小波高激励下的捕获宽度。     

深水波中进动共振的数值模拟研究

进动(precession)共振是一种非线性共振相互作用,2016年才有学者对这一现象进行研究。采用非静压二维自由表面流模型模拟了深水条件下重力波的进动共振现象。通过边界造波的方法产生双色波,分析了触发进动共振的初始条件;探讨了进动共振在小振幅前提条件下发生的简化初始条件。数值模拟分析两组对称测点,对不同测点的波面、能量谱进行对比分析。数值结果表明:非静压二维自由表面流模型可以模拟进动共振现象,并且可以采用双色波作为条件来研究深水五波进动共振现象,进动共振需要一定的能量转化时间,进动共振发生的条件是三波组合的进动频率等于一个系统存在的非线性频率。     

Focused Wave Properties Based on A High Order Spectral Method with A Non-Periodic Boundary

In this paper,a numerical model is developed based on the High Order Spectral(HOS) method with a non-periodic boundary.A wave maker boundary condition is introduced to simulate wave generation at the incident boundary in the HOS method.Based on the numerical model,the effects of wave parameters,such as the assumed focused amplitude,the central frequency,the frequency bandwidth,the wave amplitude distribution and the directional spreading on the surface elevation of the focused wave,the maximum generated wave crest,and the shifting of the focusing point,are numerically investigated.Especially,the effects of the wave directionality on the focused wave properties are emphasized.The numerical results show that the shifting of the focusing point and the maximum crest of the wave group are dependent on the amplitude of the focused wave,the central frequency,and the wave amplitude distribution type.The wave directionality has a definite effect on multidirectional focused waves.Generally,it can even out the difference between the simulated wave amplitude and the amplitude expected from theory and reduce the shifting of the focusing points,implying that the higher order interaction has an influence on wave focusing,especially for 2D wave.In 3D wave groups,a broader directional spreading weakens the higher nonlinear interactions.     

完全非线性孤立波的直墙反射

报道了应用边界积分方法模拟完全非线性孤立波的传播与直墙反射,给出了波形演变过程。结果表明,本模型对计算孤立波的传播与直墙反射是有效的。三阶Boussinesq方程的孤立波解比低阶方程的孤立波解更接近完全非线性的数值解.当来波波高增大时,孤立波直墙反射的相位滞后变小。若考虑大波高孤立波的直墙反射或波——波相互作用,一阶理论预报的相位滞后往往低估实际情况。