Numerical Simulation of Wave Scour Around A Large-Scale Circular Cylinder

A numerical model is developed for estimation of local scour around a large circular cylinder under vvave action. The model includes wave diffraction around structures, bed shear stress calculation inside the vvave boundary layer and topo-graphical change model. The vvave model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth. The vvave boundary layer is calculaled by solving the integrated momentum equation over the boundary layer. The bed shear stress due to streaming, an important factor affecting the sediment transport around a large-scale cylinder, is calculated. The Lagrangian drift velocity is included in calculation of the suspended sediment transport rates. The model is implemented by a finite element method and the results from the present model, which agree well with experimental data, are com-pared vvith those from other methods.     

Simulation of three-dimensional cohesive sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay, China

Sediment transport in the Hangzhou Bay is extremely complicated due to its bathymetry and hydrodynamic conditions. The ECOMSED model is employed to simulate three-dimensional (3-D) cohesive sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay. Dynamical factors such as Coriolis force, tides, salinity, river discharges, and waves are considered in the model. The wave parameters, including the significant wave height, period, and direction, are calculated with the SWAN model. The Grant-Madsen model is introduced for the bed shear stress due to the combined effect of waves and currents. The formulation of bed shear stress used to calculate the sink/source terms is modified based on previous research that sufficiently validated the formulation with measurement data. The integrated model of the above-mentioned models is applied to simulate sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay. The results of the simulation agree well with field observations concerning the distribution of suspended sediment, indicating that the sediments are remarkably suspended in Hangzhou Bay under the action of waves and currents.     

近岸波浪和波生流环境中泥沙输运的数值模拟

Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78.     

A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast

A morphological stability analysis is carried out for a long straight coast with a longshore bar. The situation with oblique wave incidence and a wave-driven longshore current is considered. The flow and sediment transport are described by a numerical modelling system. The models comprise: (i) a wave model with depth refraction, shoaling and wave breaking, (ii) a depth integrated model for wave driven currents and (iii) a sediment transport model for the bed load transport and the suspended load transport in combined waves and current. The direction of the sediment transport is taken to be parallel to the depth integrated mean current velocity, neglecting the effects of a bed slope and secondary currents. An instability is found to develop around the bar crest. The instability is periodic in the alongshore direction, and tends to form rip channels and to steepen the offshore face of the bar between the rip channels. The alongshore wave length of the most unstable perturbation is determined for different combinations of the wave conditions and the geometry of the profile.     

潮流波浪联合输沙及海床冲淤演变的理论体系与其数学模拟

根据近岸带及河口区潮流、波浪、湍流各自物理尺度的不同,从Ｎａｖｉｅｒ－Ｓｔｏｋｅｓ方程和质量传输方程出发,利用Ｒｅｙｎｏｌｄｓ分解的方法,建立了模拟波浪 流联合输沙及海床冲淤演变的理论体系,给出了潮流作用下近岸波浪传播方程、波浪作用下潮流运动方程并通过利用波流合成底部切应力、底层湍流脉动随机特性,得出了波流联合作用下不平衡沙计算中泥沙起悬与沉降量的确定方法。本文模型应用于“广西合浦围垦工程潮流波浪     

Research on Measurement of Bed Shear Stress Under Wave-Current Interaction

The movement of sediment in estuary and on coast is directly restricted by the bed shear stress. Therefore, the research on the basic problem of sediment movement by the bed shear stress is an important way to research the theory of sediment movement. However, there is not a measuring and computing method to measure the bed shear stress under a complicated dynamic effect like wave and current. This paper describes the measurement and test research on the bed shear stress in a long launder of direct current by the new instrument named thermal shearometer based on micro-nanotechnology. As shown by the research results, the thermal shearometer has a high response frequency and strong stability. The measured results can reflect the basic change of the bed shear stress under wave and wave?current effect, and confirm that the method of measuring bed shear stress under wave?current effect with thermal shearometer is feasible. Meanwhile, a preliminary method to compute the shear stress compounded by wave?current is put forward according to the tested and measured results, and then a reference for further study on the basic theory of sediment movement under a complicated dynamic effect is provided.     

Research on Measurement of Bed Shear Stress Under Wave?Current Interaction

The movement of sediment in estuary and on coast is directly restricted by the bed shear stress. Therefore, the research on the basic problem of sediment movement by the bed shear stress is an important way to research the theory of sediment movement. However, there is not a measuring and computing method to measure the bed shear stress under a complicated dynamic effect like wave and current. This paper describes the measurement and test research on the bed shear stress in a long launder of direct current by the new instrument named thermal shearometer based on micro-nanotechnology. As shown by the research results, the thermal shearometer has a high response frequency and strong stability. The measured results can reflect the basic change of the bed shear stress under wave and wave?current effect, and confirm that the method of measuring bed shear stress under wave?current effect with thermal shearometer is feasible. Meanwhile, a preliminary method to compute the shear stress compounded by wave?current is put forward according to the tested and measured results, and then a reference for further study on the basic theory of sediment movement under a complicated dynamic effect is provided.     

Numerical study on vertical structures of undertow inside and outside the surf zone

Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t...     

近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

Numerical modelling of sand beach evolution around coastal structures

I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside…     

Sand transport under combined current and wave conditions: A semi-unsteady,practical model

For the general purposes of morphodynamic computations in coastal zones, simple formula-based models are usually employed to evaluate sediment transport. Sediment transport rates are computed as a function of the bottom shear stress or the near bed flow velocity and it is generally assumed that the sediment particles react immediately to changes in flow conditions. It has been recognized, through recent laboratory experiments in both rippled and plane bed sheet flow conditions that sediment reacts to the flow in a complex manner, involving non-steady processes resulting from memory and settling/entrainment delay effects. These processes may be important in the cross-shore direction, where sediment transport is mainly caused by the oscillatory motions induced by surface short gravity waves.The aim of the present work is to develop a semi-unsteady, practical model, to predict the total (bed load and suspended load) sediment transport rates in wave or combined wave-current flow conditions that are characteristic of the coastal zone. The unsteady effects are reproduced indirectly by taking into account the delayed settling of sediment particles. The net sediment transport rates are computed from the total bottom shear stress and the model takes into account the velocity and acceleration asymmetries of the waves as they propagate towards the shore.A comparison has been carried out between the computed net sediment transport rates with a large data set of experimental results for different flow conditions (wave-current flows, purely oscillatory flow, skewed waves and steady currents) in different regimes (plane bed and rippled bed) with fine, medium and coarse uniform sand. The numerical results obtained are reasonably accurate within a factor of 2. Based on this analysis, the limits and validity of the present formulation are discussed.     

海底管道周围局部冲刷数值模拟分析

通过建立一个垂直二维紊流模型来模拟管道周围流场,建立泥沙冲刷模型来模拟海床底面变化。其中,冲刷模型同时包括悬移质输沙和推移质输沙。海床底面变化通过计算底面泥沙总输运平衡关系得到。并进行多组冲刷数值实验,分析泥沙冲刷过程,总结出一套冲刷平衡深度经验公式。     

实际气象场驱动下太湖悬浮物浓度的模拟研究

本文利用高频变化的实际气象数据, 在考虑波浪作用的前提下利用FVCOM (Finite-volume Coastal Ocean Model)模式模拟了太湖底泥再悬浮的情况。模拟结果表明, FVCOM模式在考虑波浪作用下对太湖悬浮物浓度的模拟结果与卫星反演结果吻合较好。在模拟时刻, 湖心区和西南湖区是悬浮物浓度的大值区, 其原因在于: 湖心区虽然底泥较少, 但其流场的分布总是有利于周围悬浮物向湖心区输送; 而西南湖区本身有底泥的分布, 在上升运动和流场的配合下, 一方面有悬浮物向该区域输送, 另一方面该区域有沉积物悬浮。模拟时刻切应力和悬浮物浓度的空间配置是不一致的, 说明了底部切应力并不是影响悬浮物浓度的唯一因子, 还与湖流的输移和底泥的分布有关。     

Nonuniform sediment transport under non-breaking waves and currents

Empirical formulas have been developed to calculate the fractional bed-load and suspended-load transport rates and near-bed suspended-load concentration under non-breaking waves and currents for coastal applications. The formulas relate the bed-load transport rate to the grain shear stress, the suspended-load transport rate to the energy of the flow system, and the near-bed suspended-load concentration to the bed-load transport rate, velocity and layer thickness. Adequate methods are adopted to determine the bed shear stress due to coexisted waves and currents. The hiding and exposure mechanism in nonuniform bed material is considered through a correction factor that is related to the hiding and exposure probabilities and in turn the size composition of bed material. The developed formulas have been tested using a large database of single-sized sediment transport and several sets of multiple-sized sediment transport data collected from literature, and compared with several existing formulas. The developed formulas can provide reasonably good predictions for the test cases.     

渤海海峡沉积物输运的参数化计算

本文以2018年冬季渤海海峡两个站位的定点连续观测数据为基础，使用一维参数化方案，计算了观测站位底边界层内的水平悬浮物输运通量以及推移质输运量。在参数化方案中，简化的一维对流扩散方程被用于计算底边界层内的垂向悬浮物浓度。为了验证参数化方案的可靠性，本文基于观测数据对比了两种底剪切应力计算模型、四种临界起动剪切应力计算方法和两种一维对流扩散方程解法。对比结果表明:(1)不同模型计算的底剪切应力结果相近；(2)临界起动剪切应力受到颗粒间黏性作用的影响；(3)一维对流扩散方程的求解过程需要考虑沉积物浓度的分层效应和不同粒级颗粒临界起动剪切应力的差异。基于上述对比结果确定的最优参数化方案，进一步计算了观测站位的沉积物输运量:(1)在有再悬浮的时段，距底5 m内的水平悬浮物通量占全水深悬浮物通量的比例(T01站约为21%，T02站约为17%)显著高于相同层位水通量的占比；(2)依据参数化方案估算的冬季平均的悬浮物通量比忽略底边界层悬浮物浓度垂向变化的传统方法结果高约16%；(3)推移质输运量比悬移质输运量约低两个数量级。     

海岸悬沙运移数学模型

根据适合大范围缓变地形情况下,不恒定、非均匀流场中随机波折绕射联合数值模式及波浪作用下的二维浅水环流方程和悬沙扩散方程,建立了波浪、潮流共同作用下二维悬沙数学模型,并将该模型应用于渤海湾北部海域,进行了波、流共同作用下航道疏浚弃土的悬沙扩散、运移及海床演变的数值模拟,为工程单位决策提供科学依据     

Mechanism of local scour around submarine pipelines based on numerical simulation of turbulence model

1 IntroductionSubmarine pipelines are important ocean engi-neeringequipm ents, especiallyfortheoiland gasin-dustries. M anyresearchershavebeendedicatedtotheproblem of local scour around the submarinepipelines, butmostoftheirwork arelaboratory testsand foc…     

轴线倾斜海底管道冲刷速率试验研究

通过物理模型试验研究水流作用下轴线倾斜海底管道的三维局部冲刷问题。利用超声波探头监测管道下部冲刷沿管轴线方向的扩展过程,分析海底管道三维局部冲刷的动态发展机理。由模型沙的冲蚀试验,建立沙床面剪切应力与泥沙表观侵蚀速率之间的关系式,并引入经验公式对沙床面剪切应力放大系数、泥沙表观侵蚀速率以及远场床面剪切应力之间的关系进行表达。由倾斜管道模型试验,在分析冲刷扩展位置随时间变化数据的基础上,结合上述经验公式以及沙床面剪切应力放大系数与管道埋深的关系,建立轴线倾斜海底管道冲刷扩展速率的预测公式。     

Analysis of some key parametrizations in a beach profile morphodynamical model

A numerical process-based model to forecast beach profile morphodynamics has been developed. In the present paper, an analysis of various modelling approaches and key parametrizations involved in the estimation of the wave-driven current and the suspended sediment concentration is carried out.Several resolution techniques for the 1DV horizontal (i.e., in the x-direction perpendicular to coastline) momentum equation governing the Mean Horizontal Velocity (MHV) are analysed. In the first kind of techniques, the mean horizontal velocity is computed from the momentum equation, whereas the Mean Water Level (MWL) is computed using a parametrization of the depth-averaged momentum equation. Two boundary or integral conditions are thus needed. In the second kind, both mean horizontal velocity and mean water level gradient in the x-direction are the unknowns of the momentum equation, thus, three boundary or integral conditions are needed. Various additional conditions are discussed. We show that using a technique of the first kind is equivalent to imposing the difference between the surface and the bottom shear stresses in the 1D vertical equation. Both techniques lead to results that are in good agreement with the Delta Flume experimental data, provided the Stokes drift flow discharge is imposed as an additional condition. The influence of the breaking roller model and of the turbulent viscosity parametrization are also analysed.Suspended sediment transport by the mean current and wave-induced bedload transport are taken into account in the sediment flux. Three turbulent diffusivity parametrizations are compared for suspended sediment concentration estimations. A linear profile for the turbulent diffusivity taking into account the wave bottom shear stress and the surface wave breaking turbulence production is shown to give the best results. Using experimental data, we put forward the poor estimation of the bottom sediment concentration given by the three implemented parametrizations. We thus propose a new parametrization relying on a Shields parameter based on the breaking roller induced surface shear stress. Using this new parametrization, the bottom profile used in the tests keeps its two bars which disappear otherwise. However, the morphodynamical model still overestimates the bars offshore motion, a bias already observed in other models.