Long period waves at a mouth of a bay in a basin

By a model bay with a mouth and a narrow, an experiment on long period waves is carried out to discuss the behavior of the tsunamis and storm surges. Emphasis is placed on the analysis of the characteristics of the current velocities associated with the long period waves incoming through the mouth in terms of Ursell's parameter.     

The pressure impulse in a fluid saturated crack in a sea wall

When a wave breaks against a sea wall containing a crack, such as might exist within the blockwork, pressure pulses can travel through the fluid and propagate into the crack. This can cause high stresses to act on the sides and roof of the crack and may even cause the constituent blocks to move. The Pressure Impulse, P, is used to model the effect of wave impact against a wall in which there is a fluid filled crack. A two-dimensional field equation is derived for P that is applicable in plane cracks of non-uniform, narrow width. This is solved for several geometries relating to cracks between constituent blocks of sea walls, in order to compare the impulsive forces with the gravitational force on a block. It is shown that a large block can be lifted due to the impulse exerted by the fluid in a crack beneath it.     

数据稀缺生态系统中多种类质量谱模型的构建

多种类生态模型已经被广泛应用于渔业活动影响应预测和管理措施效果评估。质量谱模型是一种基于生理过程构建的生态模型,该模型为描述鱼类群落在个体摄食变异和随个体发生的生态位迁移提供了一个可行的方法。尽管生态模型在增进生态系统认识上具有重要意义,其应用在数据稀缺的渔业中受到很大限制。作为实践基于生态系统渔业管理(EBFM)的第一步,本研究构建了海州湾鱼类群落的质量谱模型。本研究详述了数据收集和模型参数化的过程,以促进该模型在数据稀缺的生态系统中未来的应用。作为一个范例,研究展示了不同捕捞努力量对生态系统的影响,并采用一套生态指标监测其动态。群落生物量、多样性指数、W指数,大鱼指数(LFI),平均体重和群落质量谱斜率对捕捞压力的响应呈非线性,最大的捕捞强度并非总是对鱼类群落产生最强的影响。本文强调了构建谱模型在生态研究中的的价值和可行性,并讨论了模型的局限性和改进的可能。本研究旨在促进质量谱模型的广泛应用以更好地支持基于生态系统的渔业管理。     

Wave diffraction in a current over a local shoal

Applying the Green's theorem and a moving oscillating source as the Green's function, an integral equation method is developed for predicting wave height over a shoal in a weak current. The integral equation is discretized by a higher order element method and a numerical code is implemented. To validate the numerical code, comparison is made on wave run-up around a vertical cylinder with McCamy and Fuchs' analytic solution in the still water and the results in currents from numerical wave tanks. Computation has also been carried out for the wave diffraction over a parabolic shoal in a current, and numerical results are given at many sections. The numerical results from the calculation can be used for benchmark test for other methods on wave diffraction in current.     

Development of a thin diatom layer observed in a stratified embayment in Japan

The temporal evolution of a thin phytoplankton layer was observed by field measurements using a research vessel and mooring instruments in the Yatsushiro Sea, a semi-enclosed narrow embayment in Japan, in early August 2013. The subsurface chlorophyll maximum developed into a thin layer within 2 days just below the pycnocline at around 10-m depth, where turbulent mixing (the dissipation rate of turbulent kinetic energy) was weak (low). The layer persisted for 1.5 to 2 days and declined after irradiance drastically decreased at the sea surface. At the peak period, the layer thickness, which is defined as the full-width at half-maximum of the peak in chlorophyll a concentration, ranged from 0.6 to 1.4 m, and the maximum concentration reached 42.3 mg m^?3. The horizontal extent of the layer was approximately 10 km along the longitudinal axis of the bay. The phytoplankton population characterized by the layer was dominated by a chain-forming centric diatom, Chaetoceros spp. The formation mechanisms of the thin diatom layer were investigated using the observed data and a vertical one-dimensional model that includes physical and biological processes. The results suggest that the development of the thin layer was caused by in situ growth and aggregation due to nutrient-dependent sinking of the species under weak turbulence. The study highlights that continuous multidisciplinary observations and understanding species-specific physiological responses to environmental variations are necessary to elucidate drastically fluctuating phytoplankton dynamics in a coastal water.     

直墙前矩形月池水波振荡研究分析

月池内流体存在活塞和晃荡两类振荡现象。基于线性势流理论,推导了波浪斜向入射下,直墙前矩形月池辐射和绕射问题的解析解。通过分离变量法和特征函数展开法求解了速度势函数,根据边界条件来确定速度势函数中的未知系数,由速度势函数计算斜向波与矩形月池相互作用的水动力系数和波浪激励力,对它们的变化规律进行了分析讨论,研究了底部开口大小、波浪入射角度对矩形月池水动力特性的影响以及直墙远近对波浪力的影响。结果表明,月池底部开口大小对流体水平作用的影响较小,而对流体垂直作用的影响较大;波浪入射角度的变化对矩形月池横荡和横摇运动时的水动力特性有一定的影响;在一定条件下,直墙的存在会使得月池在水平方向所受到的波浪力比开敞水域中的要大。     

Transformation of a strongly nonlinear wave in a shallow-water basin

The transformation of a nonlinear wave in shallow water is investigated analytically and numerically within the framework of long-wave theory. It is shown that the nonlinearity parameter (the Mach number), which is defined as the ratio of the particle velocity in the wave to the propagation velocity, can be well above unity in a deep trough and that a jump appears initially in the trough. It is demonstrated that shockwave amplitudes at large times change in accordance with the prediction of weakly nonlinear theory. The shock front generates a reflected wave, which, in turn, transforms into a shock wave if the initial amplitude is large enough. The amplitude of the reflected wave is proportional to the cube of the initial amplitude (as predicted by weakly nonlinear theory) over a wide range of amplitudes except for the case of anomalously strong nonlinearity. When there is a sign-variable sufficiently intense initial perturbation, the basic wave transforms into a positive shock pulse (crest) and the reflected wave turns into a negative pulse (trough).     

Flow around a partly buried cylinder in a steady current

The flow around a cylinder, surface mounted or partly buried has been examined at Reynolds number of 1.3×10⁴ and 2.6×10⁴ by using the flow visualization method in the case of steady current. The lengths of the upstream and downstream separation regions were determined and the characteristics of the flow area were discussed for the cylinder having different burial depth to the diameter ratio (G/D). For comparsion, some numerical results obtained from the application of the FLUENT, computational fluid dynamics (CFD) software package have also been presented. Both experimental and numerical results indicated that the lengths of the separation regions near the upstream and downstream of the cylinder decreased with the increasing burial ratio (G/D=0, 0.20, 0.50). The results have significant implications both for the illustration of the potential for using CFD software and highlighting the need for data of two dimensional flow around the buried cylinder.     

Tidal eddies in a semi-enclosed basin: a model study

A modeling study has been carried out to support a Marine Management Plan for the Gulf of Kachchh, India and here the hydrodynamic part of the programme is described. The hydrodynamic model accurately predicts the tides and tidal currents present in the Gulf and these have been validated with the measured data, albeit at only a few locations. The time averaged residual currents obtained from the model for one lunar cycle clearly reproduce the complex, small-scale, topographically induced flows with several eddies. The existence of a dynamic barrier along Sikka-Mundra section, which divides the Gulf into two distinct dynamic systems, is very evident. The model is further used to predict the movement of surface floating particles launched at different locations in the Gulf, as an aid to determining floating pollutants. The results indicate that industries discharging wastes upstream of the barrier should use extreme caution, as these will remain in the vicinity for at least one lunar cycle.     

Frictionless Generation of a Tidal Eulerian Residual Flow over a Sill in a Narrow Channel

Using a vertically two-dimensional, two-layer model, we have analytically examined the generation mechanism of a nonzero Eulerian residual flow by strong tide-topography interaction in a narrow channel where the frictional effect is not included. In this case, tidally generated baroclinic disturbances are forced non-uniformly in space and time while being advected by a strong tidal flow over the non-uniform slope of the bottom topography. Consequently, nonzero Eulerian residual flow results when averaged over one tidal period. Although the time average of the velocity field is thus nonzero, the associated Eulerian residual transport in each layer is compensated by a Stokes transport so that no Lagrangian residual transport results in both layers. This warns us that simple time averaging of the velocity data obtained at a fixed mooring station might lead to a spurious material transport. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Flow and bed shear stresses in scour protections around a pile in a current

Transport of bed sediment inside and beneath the scour protection may cause deformation and sinking of the scour protection for pile foundations. This may reduce the stability of the mono pile and change the natural frequency of the dynamic response of an offshore wind turbine installed on it in an unfavourable manner. Using physical models and 3D computational fluid dynamic (CFD) numerical simulations, the velocity and bed shear stresses are investigated in complex scour protections around mono piles in steady current. In the physical model the scour protections consisted of an upper cover layer with uniformly distributed coarse stones and a lower filter layer with finer stones. For the numerical simulations, the Flow-3D software was used. The scour protection layers were simulated with different numerical approaches, namely regularly arranged spheres, porous media, or their combinations (hybrid models). Numerical simulations with one or four layers of cover stones without filter layer were first computed. Three additional simulations were then made for a scour protection with a cover layer and a single filter layer. Finally, a simulation of a full scale foundation and scour protection was made with porous media approach.Based on the physical and numerical results, a method to determine the critical stones size to prevent motion of the base sediment is established and compared to a full scale case with sinking of scour protection (Horns Rev I Offshore Wind Farm, Denmark). It is also found that the CFD simulations are capable of calculating the flow velocities when the scour protection is represented by regular arranged spheres, while the turbulence in general is underestimated. The velocity can also be calculated using porous media flow approach, but the accuracy is not as good as for spheres. The deviation is more severe for more complex scour protections. In general, computational models provide valuable information for the prediction and design of scour protections for offshore wind farms.     

Run-Up of a Nonlinear Monochromatic Wave on a Plane Beach in Presence of a Tide

Oceanology - Abstract—The nonlinear problem of run-up of a long wave on a plane beach in presence of a tide is solved within nonlinear shallow water theory using the Carrier–Greenspan...     

Photoadaptation in a convective layer

Measurements of Lagrangian trajectories acquired with neutrally buoyant floats in an upper ocean mixing layer during a five-day period of nearly cloudless and calm conditions, provide an opportunity for investigating the implications of photo-adaptation of phytoplankton exposed to varying light intensities as they traverse the water column in convective plumes. The predominant convective motions develop over night and persist through the morning until giving way to thermal restratification. Despite the paucity of observed trajectories, their essential characteristics are extracted and used to generate a large number of pseudo-tracks having characteristics similar to those measured at any given depth and time of day. A Monte Carlo simulation is run for a sample set of biological variables to identify predominant features of the production. For each pseudo-trajectory the production is calculated from a photo-adaptive model in order to identify primary features of the instantaneous and accumulated production. The simulation illustrates the way in which photo-inhibition can reduce production near the surface during the morning, developing a subsurface layer of increased production that progressively deepens to approximately 12 m at noon. The surface production is suppressed during the afternoon, but subsequently recovers as light levels drop below the photo-inhibition threshold.     

Chaos in a Bose-Einstein condensate

It is demonstrated that Smale-horseshoe chaos exists in the time evolution of the one-dimensional Bose--Einstein condensate driven by time-periodic harmonic or inverted-harmonic potential. A formally exact solution of the time-dependent Gross-Pitaevskii equation is constructed, which describes the matter shock waves with chaotic or periodic amplitudes and phases.     

Occurrence probability of a freak wave in a nonlinear wave field

The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory.     

建设海湾型城市,开创厦门海洋管理新局面

在厦门市委、市政府的领导下，厦门市海洋与渔业局围绕厦门建设海湾型城市的战略目标，按照《2003年市政府工作报告》和《2003年市海洋与渔业局工作目标责任书》的要求，加强效能服务，依法行政，较好地完成了年初预定的各项任务，使全局工作出现了一个较好的局面。     

Hydroelastic optimisation of a composite marine propeller in a non-uniform wake

The purpose of this paper is to optimise the hydroelastic performance of a composite marine propeller to reduce vibration and dynamic stress. A hydroelasticity method based on the finite element method (FEM) coupled with computational fluid dynamics (CFD) is used to simulate the composite marine propeller in a non-uniform wake. Composite blades can be considered as a cantilever-like laminated structure experiencing an unsteady hydrodynamic load and centrifugal force. The objective of the improved design is to minimise the vibratory hub loads. The ply angle and stacking sequence are considered as the design variables. The nonlinear periodic transient responses and vibration hub loads of the composite blade are obtained by solving coupled equations using the Newton–Raphson numerical procedure. Compared to the starting design of the propeller, the optimum solution results in a 49.6–70.6% reduction of the 7/rev hub loads.     

Stationary Rossby-waves in a two-layer model produced by a submarine ridge

Characteristics of stationary Rossby-waves are investigated by use of equations expressing conservation of potential vorticity for a quasi-geostrophic two-layer flow of an incompressible inviscid fluid on a beta-plane. A two-dimensional problem is discussed; the basic flow is directing eastward without horizontal shear, and the stationary Rossby-waves are produced by a two-dimensional bump extending in the north-south direction which is located on a sloping bottom with a constant north-south gradient.When the slope is steep, stream-lines are scarcely displaced being influenced by the bump. When the bottom has no north-south inclination, however, there is a case where group velocity of Rossby-waves produced by the bump directs westward and the stream-lines meander sinusoidally at the west of the bump. This phenomenon is called upstream influence. These two special cases have a possibility to explain two different mean paths for the Kuroshio namely, the path along the continental slope and the path with a stationary meander at the west of the Izu-Ogasawara Ridge.     

Wave-induced seabed instability around a buried pipeline in a poro-elastic seabed

The subject of the wave–seabed–structure interaction is important for civil engineers regarding stability analysis of foundations for offshore installations. Most previous investigations have been concerned with such a problem in the vicinity of a simple structure such as a vertical wall. For more complicated structures such as a pipeline, the phenomenon of the wave–seabed–structure has not been fully understood. This paper proposes a finite-difference model in a curvilinear coordinate system to investigate the wave-induced seabed response in a porous seabed around a pipeline. Based on the present numerical model, mechanism of the wave-induced soil response is examined. Employing Mohr–Coulomb failure criterion, the wave-induced seabed instability is also estimated. The numerical results indicate the importance of the effect of pipeline on the seabed response.     

Detailed measurements during a transient front in a small subtropical estuary

High-resolution measurements of velocity and physio-chemistry were conducted before, during and after the passage of a transient front in a small subtropical system about 2.1 km upstream of the river mouth. Detailed acoustic Doppler velocimetry measurements, conducted continuously at 25 Hz, showed the existence of transverse turbulent shear between 300 s prior to the front passage and 1300 s after. This was associated with an increased level of suspended sediment concentration fluctuations, some transverse shear next to the bed and some surface temperature anomaly.