响水近岸海域波浪特性研究

基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料，分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性，研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性，并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间，年平均值为0.56 m；最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间，年平均值为0.93 m；平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s，年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节，波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言，通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面，本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%，且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值，其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右，高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间，分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系，发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性，但受波浪浅水变形影响，各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。     

Evaluation of two spectral wave models for wave hindcasting in the Mackenzie Delta

Climate change, reduced sea ice and increased ice-free waters over extended areas for longer summer periods potentially lead to increased wave energy in the Beaufort Sea (Wang et al., 2015; Khon et al., 2014) [1], [2], which is a major concern for coastal and offshore engineering activities. We compare two spectral wave models SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) and MIKE 21 SW (hereafter MIKE21) in simulations of storm-generated waves in the Mackenzie Delta region of the southern Beaufort Sea. SWAN model simulations are performed using two nested grids system, whereas MIKE21 uses an unstructured grid system. Forcing fields are defined by hourly hindcast winds. Moving ice edge boundaries are incorporated during storm simulations. Modelled wave spectra from four storms are shown to compare well with field observations. Two established whitecapping formulations in SWAN are investigated: one dependent on mean spectral wave steepness, and the other on local spectral steepness. For the Beaufort Sea study area, we suggest that SWAN wave simulations using the latter local spectral steepness formulation are better than those using the former mean spectral steepness formulation. MIKE21 simulations also tend to agree with SWAN results using the latter whitecapping formulation.     

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.     

宁波北仑海域风浪统计性质研究

根据宁波北仑海域的连续3a的实测风浪资料,讨论了在不同风速条件下波高分布和周期分布,以及两者的联合分布;通过与理论结果的比较,得出波高分布与Rayleigh分布基本符合,但有一些差异,周期分布与孙孚的理论周期分布较符合,而波高与周期的联合分布除了图形的形状以及大波对应的无因次周期的值与孙孚的理论值有差异外,两者吻合较好。     

Validation of the Boccotti's generalized model for large nonlinear wave heights from laboratory mixed sea states

The presented work aims at validating the generalization of the asymptotic distribution model of Boccotti for large wave heights recently proposed by Tayfun [1] to laboratory generated mixed sea states with two-peak spectra. The input wave spectra are modelled as the sum of two JONSWAP spectra describing unidirectional wave systems with different or identical directions of propagation (crossing or following mixed seas). In order to account for the effect of the energetically dominant wave system on the largest observed waves, the Boccotti's parameters were calculated at the absolute minimum of the autocorrelation function which can differ from the first minimum for some cases of mixed seas, such as those dominated by the swell or seas with comparable contribution of the two spectral components. So far the proposed model has been validated elsewhere against samples of large wave heights exceeding the significant wave height in wind seas and in mechanically generated long-crested seas, both characterized by unimodal spectra and strong third-order nonlinearities. The present study demonstrates that it can predict equally well the tail of the distributions for mixed seas, irrespective of the type of the mixed sea, particularly when the third-order statistics is relatively large. Typically, the mixed seas from the considered offshore basin experiment display such conditions as the propagation distance from the wavemaker increases, though this effect is less pronounced for mixed following than for mixed crossing wave conditions. Moreover, the generalized model remains valid irrespective of the sign of the fourth-order sum Λ which is a key parameter of the distribution. Its good predictive ability is quantified here by the root-mean-square errors between observations and theory.     

Filters for linear sea-wave prediction

Deterministic sea-wave prediction (DSWP) models are appearing in the literature designed for quiescent interval prediction in marine applications dominated by large swell seas. The approach has focused upon spectral methods which are straightforward and intuitively attractive. However, such methods have the disadvantage that while the sea is aperiodic in nature, the standard discrete spectral processing techniques force an absolutely periodic structure onto the resulting sea surface prediction models. As it is the shape of the sea surface that is important in such applications, particularly near the end of the domain which is important, the standard windowing techniques used in signal processing work to reduce leakage artifacts cannot be employed. This has necessitated the use of end matching methods that can be both inconvenient and may reduce the fraction of the time for which legitimate predictions are available. As a result, an investigation has been undertaken of the use of finite impulse response prediction filters to provide the necessary dispersive phase shifting required in DSWP systems. The present work examines the theoretical basis for such filters and explores their properties together with their application to both long and short crested swell seas. It is shown that wide band forms of such filters are only convergent in the sense of distributions having both infinite duration impulse responses and asymptotically divergent first derivatives. However, appropriate band limitation can produce useful finite impulse responses allowing implementation via standard discrete convolution methods. It is demonstrated that despite the prediction filters having a non-causal impulse response such filters can be used in practice due to a combination of the asymmetric nature of the impulse response and the fundamental nature of the prediction process. The findings are confirmed against actual sea-wave data.     

Statistics of Wind and Waves off Tsuyazaki, Fukuoka, in the Eastern Tsushima Strait

The variability of the sea surface wind and wind waves in the coastal area of the Eastern Tsushima Strait was investigated based on the hourly data from 1990 to 1997 obtained at a station 2 km off Tsuyazaki, Fukuoka. The annual mean wind speed was 4.84 m s⁻¹, with strong northwesterly monsoon in winter and weak southwesterly wind in summer. Significant wave heights and wave periods showed similar sinusoidal seasonal cycles around their annual means of 0.608 m and 4.77 s, respectively. The seasonal variability relative to the annual mean is maximum for wave heights, medium for wind speeds, and minimum for wave periods. Significant wave heights off Tsuyazaki turned out to be bounded by a criterion, which is proportional to the square of the significant wave period corresponding to a constant steepness, irrespective of the season or the wind speed. For terms shorter than a month, the significant wave height and the wave period were found to have the same spectral form as the inshore wind velocity: white for frequencies less than 0.2 day⁻¹ and proportional to the frequency to the −5/3 power for higher frequencies, where the latter corresponds to the inertial subrange of turbulence. The spectral levels of wave heights and wave periods in that inertial range were also correlated with those of the inshore wind velocity, though the scatter was large. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

The distribution of zero-crossing wave heights and periods in a stationary sea state

Existing theoretical distributions of wave height and period do not reflect measured joint distributions from field data. A simulation methodology is introduced to retain the essential features of the theoretical background in Gaussian random noise but to avoid further compromising assumptions in the interpretation of height and period in the amplitude domain. A joint distribution can be associated directly with an empirical or measured variance spectrum. Spectral shape appears to dominate the detail of predicted joint distributions. There is generally a much sharper decay in probability levels at higher periods than is predicted by theoretical models. For Jonswap spectra, there is a dominant central ridge and a distinct bimodal structure in the joint distribution, features that are not evident in symmetric Gaussian spectral forms. The wave height distributions for Jonswap spectra differ little from the Rayleigh distribution, except at extreme wave heights where Rayleigh overpredicts. The period distributions are strongly sensitive to spectral shape. In the conditional distribution of periods, given the height, the asymptotic median period at extreme wave heights is significantly longer than the mean period for Jonswap spectra, but not for symmetric Gaussian forms.     

双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分成５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下被高、周期的统计分布．并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。     

胶州湾双峰谱型波浪的统计特征

本文对胶州湾实测双峰海浪谱的资料进行了统计分析和谱分析，探讨了双峰谱型海浪的波要素概率分布及其群性特征，并与单峰谱型海浪进行了比较．最后通过双峰谱的合成波高、周期与实测值的比较，对采用能量迭加方式的式（９）和式（８）进行一些讨论，主要结果列于本文最后一节．     

Neural networks for wave forecasting

The physical process of generation of waves by wind is extremely complex, uncertain and not yet fully understood. Despite a variety of deterministic models presented to predict the heights and periods of waves from the characteristics of the generating wind, a large scope still exists to improve on the existing models or to provide alternatives to them. This paper explores the possibility of employing the relatively recent technique of neural networks for this purpose. A simple 3-layered feed forward type of network is developed to obtain the output of significant wave heights and average wave periods from the input of generating wind speeds. The network is trained with different algorithms and using three sets of data. The results show that an appropriately trained network could provide satisfactory results in open wider areas, in deep water and also when the sampling and prediction interval is large, such as a week. A proper choice of training patterns is found to be crucial in achieving adequate training.     

Correlation between successive wave heights and periods in mixed sea states

The degree of dependence between successive wave heights and periods is examined for sea states resulting from the combination of a remotely generated wave field and a locally generated wave system, based on simulated wave records. The sea states analysed represent situations that are swell dominated, wind–sea dominated or they have equivalent energy in the wind–sea and swell components. Results of the analysis of the simulated data have been compared with those expected from the theories for the joint distributions of consecutive wave heights and periods and with the results from a Pierson–Moskowitz target spectrum.     

Effects of wave directionality on extreme response for a long end-anchored floating bridge

Reliable design codes are of great importance when constructing new civil engineering concepts such as floating bridges. Previously only a scarce number of floating bridges have been built in rough wave conditions and only limited knowledge of the extreme environmental conditions and the associated extreme response exists. To form a better design basis an increased understanding of the sensitivity in the structural response towards changes in short-crested sea parameters is needed. Furthermore, acquiring the necessary accuracy in simulated extreme response is often a computationally expensive endeavour and the number of simulations needed is often based on experience. The present study investigates the wave-induced short-term extreme response of a simplified end-anchored floating bridge concept for several wave environments with a return period of 100 years. The study includes convergence of the coefficient of variation for the extreme response for different realization lengths as well as number of realizations. The sensitivity in the structural response towards different main wave directions and spreading exponents is investigated and includes both transverse and vertical displacement response spectra and extreme Von Mises stress in the bridge girder cross-section. The extreme response is based on an accuracy of 2% in the coefficient of variation equivalent to 40 3-h realizations and a low sensitivity in the response is found for natural occurring spreading exponents and for main wave directions within 15° from beam sea.     

星载高级合成孔径雷达波模式算法及其反演数据精度验证

搭载在欧洲环境卫星(ENVISAT)上的高级合成孔径雷达(Advanced Synthetic Aperture Radar,ASAR)二级波模式数据提供了诸多海浪信息包括有效波高、波向、波长和二维海浪谱等,在海浪预报模式中具有重要作用。本文拟利用浮标观测数据对ASAR波模式算法及其反演数据精度进行对比验证。由于SAR卫星在海面的特殊成像机制,不同海况下会有不同的测量结果,通过与美国国家浮标中心(NDBC)的浮标数据对比,显示ASAR有效波高在高海况下低估和在低海况下高估的现象,在中等海况下的测量结果较优。通过研究ASAR数据集中对应的海浪谱,按照能量与方向分布可分为四种类型:单一方向海浪谱(Ⅰ类谱),180°方向模糊海浪谱(Ⅱ类谱),海浪两个方向且能量分布杂乱(Ⅲ类谱),多个传播方向且谱型杂乱海浪谱(Ⅳ类谱)。探究在不同类型下的海浪参数的精度,结果表明在单一波向正常海浪谱情况下,有效波高、波向与浮标数据一致性较好,存在180°方向模糊的对称海浪谱仅有效波高精度较高,谱型杂乱的海浪谱海浪有效波高和波向反演结果均较差。     

由模拟波面统计分析波高－周期联合分布

阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布。对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布、长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪、涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论。结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。     

大洋波浪特征：西太平洋波浪调查研究报告

本文分析了西太平洋实测的波高分布、同期分布、波高和周期的联合分布,以及波谱的分析。分析结果指出,大洋波浪的波高和周期都大于近海波浪的波高和周期。分布特征也不同于近海。波浪多属混合浪,会出现典型的双峰谱。     

Near-optimal control of a wave energy device in irregular waves with deterministic-model driven incident wave prediction

This paper investigates wave-by-wave control of a wave energy converter using incident wave prediction based on up-wave surface elevation measurement. The goal of control is to approach the hydrodynamically optimum velocity leading to optimum power absorption. This work aims to study the gains in energy conversion from a deterministic wave propagation model that accounts for a range of group velocities in deriving the prediction. The up-wave measurement distance is assumed to be small enough to allow a deterministic propagation model, and further, both wave propagation and device response are assumed to be linear. For deep water conditions and long-crested waves, the propagation process is also described using an impulse response function (e.g. [1]). Approximate low and high frequency limits for realistic band-limited spectra are used to compute the corresponding group velocity limits. The prediction time into the future is based on the device impulse response function needed for the evaluation of the control force. The up-wave distance and the duration of measurement are then determined using the group velocity limits above.A 2-body axisymmetric heaving device is considered, for which power capture is through the relative heave oscillation between the two co-axial bodies. The power take-off is assumed to be linear and ideal as well as capable of applying the necessary resistive and reactive load components on the relative heave oscillation. The predicted wave profile is used along with device impulse response functions to compute the actuator force components at each instant. Calculations are carried out in irregular waves generated using a number of uni-modal wave spectra over a range of energy periods and significant wave heights. Results are compared with previous studies based on the use of instantaneous up-wave wave-profile measurements, both without and with oscillation constraints imposed. Considerable improvements in power capture are observed with the present approach over the range of wave conditions studied.