The wind field over wind-waves

The velocity fluctuations of wind over wind-waves in a wind tunnel are measured with a X-type hot-wire anemometer at some heights over the water surface.The observed vertical profiles of the wave-induced velocity fluctuations and the wave-induced Reynolds stress at the wave spectral peak frequency are different from those expected from the inviscid quasi-laminar model;i.e., the observed vertical profiles of the power spectral density of the wave-induced horizontal or vertical velocity fluctuations of wind have the minimum value at the height much heigher than the critical layer, and the value of the wave-induced Reynolds stress is negative at several heights over the water surface. From the comparison between the experimental results and the numerical solutions of a linear model of the turbulent shear flow over the wavy boundary, it is shown that the discrepancy described above can be attributed to the atmospheric turbulence.     

Investigating the impact of surface wave breaking on modeling the trajectories of drifters in the northern Adriatic Sea during a wind-storm event

An accurate numerical prediction of the oceanic upper layer velocity is a demanding requirement for many applications at sea and is a function of several near-surface processes that need to be incorporated in a numerical model. Among them, we assess the effects of vertical resolution, different vertical mixing parameterization (the so-called Generic Length Scale –GLS– set of k–ε, k–ω, gen, and the Mellor–Yamada), and surface roughness values on turbulent kinetic energy (k) injection from breaking waves.First, we modified the GLS turbulence closure formulation in the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) to incorporate the surface flux of turbulent kinetic energy due to wave breaking. Then, we applied the model to idealized test cases, exploring the sensitivity to the above mentioned factors. Last, the model was applied to a realistic situation in the Adriatic Sea driven by numerical meteorological forcings and river discharges. In this case, numerical drifters were released during an intense episode of Bora winds that occurred in mid-February 2003, and their trajectories compared to the displacement of satellite-tracked drifters deployed during the ADRIA02-03 sea-truth campaign.Results indicted that the inclusion of the wave breaking process helps improve the accuracy of the numerical simulations, subject to an increase in the typical value of the surface roughness z₀. Specifically, the best performance was obtained using α_CH = 56,000 in the Charnok formula, the wave breaking parameterization activated, k–ε as the turbulence closure model. With these options, the relative error with respect to the average distance of the drifter was about 25% (5.5 km/day). The most sensitive factors in the model were found to be the value of α_CH enhanced with respect to a standard value, followed by the adoption of wave breaking parameterization and the particular turbulence closure model selected.     

Transport of waste heat from a nuclear power plant into coastal water

A numerical and experimental modeling is presented for studying the transport of waste heat from a nuclear power plant into coastal water by using a full-field physical model with scale distortion, a local physical model with normal scale and a depth-averaged k− turbulence model with a modified second-order upwind scheme. Field investigations are also used to provide the calibration and validation of the modeling. A case study simulating the turbulent tidal flow and waste heat transport in the coastal water near Daya Bay Nuclear Power Plant in Southern China was conducted. The experimental result of the case study shows that the water temperature in coastal water was a little oversimulated near the surface and was a little undersimulated near the bottom of heated-water layer by the full-field physical model. The numerical study shows that the depth-averaged k− turbulence model presented a satisfied prediction of turbulent tidal flow and far-field temperature distribution in coastal water, although the near-field stratification due to the heated water effluent was not accounted for. The result of the effect of scale distortion on physical model shows that a full-field physical model with a scale distortion of 10 produced a satisfied result of temperature distribution in the present case study.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.     

Validating a turbulence closure against estuarine microstructure measurements

A simple k–ε turbulence closure is introduced which has no stability functions but instead a Richardson number-dependent turbulent Prandtl number. Its free parameters are determined in a comparison with microstructure observations from a stratified and sheared tidal estuary and laboratory measurements. The closure is able to simulate observed turbulent dissipation rates (ε) and turbulent length scales (l_th) in regions of strong mean shear and small gradient Richardson number (R_g) to within factors of 2–3. It fails in regions of small shear and large R_g, presumably because of the dominance of internal wave-driven mixing. Additional simulations with a k–ε closure with stability functions taken from Canuto et al. [Canuto, V.M., Howard, A., Cheng, Y., Dubovikov, M.S., 2001. Ocean turbulence I: one-point closure model. Momentum and heat vertical diffusivities. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 31, 1413–1426] and with the closure of Baumert and Peters [Baumert, H., Peters, H., 2004. Turbulence closure, steady state, and collapse into waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 34, 505–512] show poor performance. Establishing a valid 1:1 comparison of simulated and observed ε and l_th requires nudging the model velocity and density toward observed values because free model integrations quickly diverge from the observations. Steady state gradient Richardson numbers are constrained to a range of 0.18–0.25, while flux Richardson numbers are constrained to the range of 0.1–0.22. The closure output is rather insensitive to such parameter variations. The simulations are sensitive, however, to the treatment of the observed velocity and density used to nudge the model. Good closure performance requires averaging the measured tidal flow over about an hour, a time scale for which conventional numerical models of estuarine circulations should be able to match observed shears. In the closure simulations the TKE balance stays close to a production–dissipation balance. The time rate of change and vertical diffusion of TKE are small, of the same order of magnitude, and vary in magnitude relative to each other systematically across the water column.     

基于间断有限元方法的三维近岸波生流数值模型建立

在三维水动力模型中引入三维辐射应力,水滚影响以及波浪附加紊动效应,并基于间断有限元方法建立了非结构化网格三维波生流数值模型。采用实验室内斜坡地形条件下正向入射波在破波带附近产生的近底回流和斜向入射波产生的沿岸流对模型进行了验证。结果表明,计算值与实测值吻合程度较好,该模型可以较好地描述三维近岸波生流。     

Establishment,validation and discussions of a three dimensional wave-induced current model

A three-dimensional numerical model was established to simulate the wave-induced currents. The depth-varying residual momentum, surface roller, wave horizontal and vertical turbulent mixing effects were incorporated as major driving forces. A surface roller evolution model considering the energy transfer, roller density and bottom slope dissipation was developed. The expression of the wave-induced horizontal turbulent mixing coefficient proposed by Larson and Kraus (1991) was extended to three-dimensional form. Plenty of experimental cases were used to validate the established model covering the wave setup, undertow, longshore currents and rip currents. Validation results showed the model could reasonably describe the main characteristics of different wave-induced current phenomena. The incorporation of surface roller for breaking waves should not be neglected in the modeling of surfzone hydrodynamics. The wave-induced turbulent mixing affects the structures of wave-induced current either in horizontal or in vertical directions. Sensitivity analysis of the major calibration parameters in the established model was made and their ranges were evaluated.     

Extending the k–ω turbulence model towards oceanic applications

Four different two-equation turbulence models for geophysical flows are compared: The k–ϵ model, two new versions of the k–ω model, and the Mellor–Yamada model. An extension of the k–ω model for buoyancy affected and rotating flows is suggested. Model performance is evaluated for a few typical oceanic flows. First, new analytical solutions of the models for the surface layer affected by breaking surface waves are discussed. The deficiencies of earlier attempts are high-lighted, and it is demonstrated why the Mellor–Yamada model and the k–ϵ model fail. It is illustrated that only one version of the k–ω model computes correct decay rates for turbulent quantities under breaking waves. Second, it is demonstrated that all models predict almost identical mixed layer depths and profiles for the turbulent kinetic energy in a classical stratified shear-entrainment experiment if the buoyancy term in the second equation is appropriately weighted. Third, the accuracy and numerical robustness of the new k–ω model in realistic oceanic situations is confirmed by comparison with the data-set of the Ocean Weather Ship ‘Papa’.     

Turbulent structure of the subsurface layer of the sea according to the data of the <Emphasis Type="Italic">Sigma-1</Emphasis> measuring complex

We present the results of experimental investigations of the characteristics of turbulence in the layer of wave-induced mixing. The data on the fluctuations of velocity, temperature, and conductivity are obtained with the help of a Sigma-1 measuring complex. The computed values of the dissipation rate of turbulent energy are compared with different models proposed for the subsurface layer. It is shown that the available models fail to guarantee satisfactory agreement of the numerical results with the experimental data for the layer of active wave action and, in particular, in the presence of swell. This leads us to the conclusion concerning the necessity of parametrization and assimilation of more complete data on the state of the sea surface, the structure of currents, and the surface layer of the atmosphere in the models. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 2, pp. 15–28, March–April, 2007.     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced laminar boundary layers

The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress.     

Process-based model for nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport and morphological evolution in the surf and swash zones

Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change.     

A two-fluid model of turbulent two-phase flow for simulating turbulent stratified flows

In this paper, a two-fluid model of turbulent two-phase flow is used to simulate turbulent stratified flows. This is a unified multi-fluid model for the motion of each phase in the flow, whose turbulent transport is closed by a two-phase k– model. The exchanges of mass, momentum and energy between the two phases are fully accounted for in the simulation. For illustration, a case of turbulent stratified flow with strong buoyancy effects, for which extensive experimental data are available, is selected for examination. It is shown that the numerical results agree well with the experimental data.     

A coupled numerical model for simulation of wave breaking and hydraulic performances of a composite seawall

A numerical model is developed by combining a porous flow model and a two-phase flow model to simulate wave transformation in porous structure and hydraulic performances of a composite type low-crest seawall. The structure consists of a wide submerged reef, a porous terrace at the top and an impermeable rear wall. The porous flow model is based on the extended Navier-Stokes equations for wave motion in porous media and k−ε turbulence equations. The two-phase flow model combines the water domain with the air zone of finite thickness above water surface. A unique solution domain is established by satisfying kinematic boundary condition at the interface of air and water. The free surface advection of water wave is modeled by the volume of fluid method with newly developed fluid advection algorithm. Comparison of computed and measured wave properties shows reasonably good agreement. The influence of terrace width and structure porosity is investigated based on numerical results. It is concluded that there exist optimum value of terrace width and porosity that can maximize hydraulic performances. The velocity distributions inside and in front of the structure are also investigated.     

A model on the turbulent wind field over wind-waves in curvilinear co-ordinates

The wave-induced fluctuations of wind velocity over wind-waves measured in the wind tunnel experiment (Ichikawa andImasato, 1976) are compared with the numerical results estimated by a linear model (Model II) on the turbulent wind field over a dominant component of wind-waves. In the Model II, the undulation of mean air flow is introduced by adopting the curvilinear co-ordinates, and the existence of viscous sublayer and the influence of underlying wind-waves to background atmospheric turbulence are taken into account. The numerical results estimated by the Model II are in good agreement with the experimental results. The good agreement, which was not obtained from the previous model (Model I) in the Cartesian co-ordinates, is shown to be attributed to the undulating mean flow introduced in the Model II.     

Estimating the characteristics of the vertical turbulent viscosity in the upper 200-m layer of the Black Sea

The influence of high vertical velocity gradients in the Black Sea Rim Current on the intensity of the vertical turbulent exchange is demonstrated on the basis of numerical modeling based on CTD data. The vertical turbulent exchange is confirmed by the anomalous distribution of the hydrochemical parameters in the redox layer. A system of equations for the kinetic energy of the turbulence and dissipation rate (k-? model) is used for the calculation of the coefficient of the vertical turbulent viscosity (diffusivity).     

风浪和海洋飞沫对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响

基于埃克曼理论,本文将波致应力和飞沫应力引入到海-气边界层的界面应力中,来研究海表面风浪和海洋飞沫对海-气边界层动量交换的影响,并得到修改后的埃克曼模型的理论解。波致应力是由风浪谱和波增长函数估计,并得到在中低风速下,波致应力、飞沫应力与湍流应力相比,对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响非常小。当风速高于25米/秒时,海洋飞沫通过飞沫应力对海-气界面应力的作用远高于波致应力,以至于波致应力可以忽略。海表面拖曳系数在高风速下,随着风速的增大而减小。通过采用风浪谱的不同波龄,得到海洋飞沫的产生会导致海-气边界层风速的增加。最后,理论解与现场的观察数据进行了对比。对比后的数据表明,在中高风速下,飞沫对海-气边界层的影响远大于表面风浪。     

Propagation of solitary waves over a submerged permeable breakwater

We study the interactions between a non-breaking solitary wave and a submerged permeable breakwater experimentally and numerically. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique is employed to measure instantaneous free surface displacements and velocity fields in the vicinity of a porous dike. The porous medium, consisting of uniform glass spheres, is mounted on the seafloor. Due to the limited size of each field of view (FOV) for high spatial resolution purposes, four FOVs are set in order to form a continuous flow field around the structure. Quantitative mean properties are obtained by ensemble averaging 30 repeated instantaneous measurements. The Reynolds decomposition method is then adopted to separate the velocity fluctuations for each trial to estimate the turbulent kinetic energy. In addition, a highly accurate two-dimensional model with the volume of fluid interface tracking technique is used to simulate an idealized volume-averaged porous medium. The model is based on the Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations coupled with the non-linear k–ε turbulence closure solver. Comparisons are performed between measurements and numerical results for the time histories of the free surface elevation recorded by wave gauges and the spatial distributions of free surface displacement with the corresponding velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around the permeable object imaged by the PIV system. Fairly good agreements are obtained. It is found that the measured and modeled turbulent intensities on the weather side are much larger than those on the lee side of the object, and that the magnitude of the turbulent intensity increases with increasing wave height of a solitary wave at a constant water depth. The verified numerical model is then used to estimate the energy reflection, transmission and dissipation using the energy integral method by varying the aspect ratio and the grain size of the permeable obstacle.     

Modification of the damping function in the k–ε model to analyse oscillatory boundary layers

A simple relationship has been developed between the wall coordinate y⁺ and Kolmogorov's length scale using direct numerical simulation (DNS) data for a steady boundary layer. This relationship is then utilized to modify two popular versions of low Reynolds number k–ε model. The modified models are used to analyse a transitional oscillatory boundary layer. A detailed comparison has been made by virtue of velocity profile, turbulent kinetic energy, Reynolds stress and wall shear stress with the available DNS data. It is observed that the low Reynolds number models used in the present study can predict the boundary layer properties in an excellent manner.