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1.
The paper concerns beach growth by trapping longshore drift to form a protective beach seaward of the principal “weather” breakwater at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island. This “spending beach” concept was aproached by evaluating downdrift extension and considerable progradation of an existing accumulation at South Beach which is a product of harbour development since 1879 and which was held in quasi-stability by ongoing extractions of the net surplus littoral drift of coarse sands and gravels (averaging 60,000 m3 yr−1).A one-line model was adapted from sand beach conditions and scaled to the morphology and processes of the mixed sand and gravel beaches at Timaru. Calibration of the model was performed from related research into the rates and temporal pattern of longshore drift on South Beach. A hundred year history of shoreline progradation against the harbour structures was utilised to verify the model.The concept offered a high benefit: cost ratio for a small engineering intervention provided shoreline forms and behaviour could be specified sufficiently for planning, statutory consent, engineering, economic and environmental impact assessment purposes. A 150 m long spur groin near the harbour entrance would trap about 12 ha of sand and gravel in about 8 years. The new shore would be better aligned to the dominant swell and storm waves than the present shore, so reducing long term net drift rates.Construction of the scheme commenced in May 1987 and progress to date is detailed.  相似文献   

2.
Erosion of the southern Gold Coast beaches (SE Queensland, Australia) was exacerbated after the extension of the Tweed River training walls in the early 1960s. To achieve the objective of restoring and maintaining beach amenity, significant nourishment works have been undertaken in Coolangatta Bay over the past 30 years. Particularly, under the Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project (TRESBP) since 1995, a number of nourishment campaigns and the implementation of a permanent sand bypass system in 2001 have resulted in significant changes of Coolangatta Bay morphology. The present case study investigates the influence of both wave climate and nourishment works on the area extending from the updrift Snapper Rocks area to downdrift Kirra Beach. SWAN spectral wave model is implemented at Coolangatta Bay area and forced by the global wave model WW3 to estimate wave forcing and the potential natural longshore drift entering in Coolangatta. Specific transects extracted from accurate bathymetric surveys are used to investigate and quantify Coolangatta Bay sedimentation for the period 1987–2005. A network of Argus video stations provides high sample rate information on the shoreline evolution. Results show that, over the past 10 years, Coolangatta Bay has infilled rapidly. Sedimentation reached up to 6 m in some areas between 1995 and 2005, with beach width increasing by 200 m at Kirra Beach. Rapid seaward shoreline migration is consistent with the intense over-pumping of sand relative to the natural potential to move sand alongshore. The nourishment strategy used during this project has successfully delivered large amounts of sand to the southern Gold Coast embayment, although it has been up to now controversial from many community perspectives. The artificial sand bypassing process proved to be much more efficient than depositing the dredged sand in the nearshore area which requires a significant period of low energy condition in order for the deposited sediment to migrate shoreward and weld to the shore. This case study confirms that, when carefully undertaken, sand bypassing is a sustainable and flexible soft engineering approach which can work in concert with natural processes.  相似文献   

3.
Beach-nearshore profiles combined with beach and surficial sediment samples were analyzed in conjunction with wave, current, littoral drift and sea-level data to determine the effect of bedrock on morphodynamic processes within the littoral zone of Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. This 14.5-km-long littoral cell is bounded by pronounced embayments and pocket beaches separated by headlands which prevent bypassing of beach sands, in effect making this cell a large, semi-closed basin. The compartmented nature of this cell acts together with the rough irregularity of the rocky seafloor to trap a thin veneer of sediment (<3 m thick), showing proportional mixing between two sedimentary provinces. A modern fine-grained sediment facies consisting of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic sand flanks most of the nearshore zone down to a depth of 8–10 m. Beyond this depth, considered to be the depth of closure, a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene coarse-grained facies composed of biogenic carbonate sand is found. Along a short section of the coastline (km 3–6), the coarser sediment also occupies the nearshore zone. Over most of the study area the two sediment types are mixed in various proportions, largest mixing coinciding with poorest sorting. Profile analyses revealed seasonal changes in sediment volume along the coast which closely follow the cyclicity of seasonal changes in wave climate. The present shoreline orientation, headlands and rough, irregular rocky seabed are reflected in the erosion/accretion pattern, sediment characteristics, and the reversibility of longshore currents and littoral drift. Although there is a marked deficiency in the sediment balance, the sand budget for this cell, including artificial material (2.339*106 m3) has increased slightly by 0.041*106 m3 year–1 as a result of engineering works carried out to widen the coastal road (Corniche). In addition to the physical properties of the bedrock (degree of induration), the accelerating sea-level rise during the Holocene and human influences, the modern morphology of the coast, the erosional seabed features in the nearshore zone, and the texture of seabed sediments are all controlled by the original geometry of the coast which consisted of an elevated subaerial ridge.  相似文献   

4.
粤东后江湾岸线演变模拟   总被引:5,自引:0,他引:5  
以粤东后江湾出海航道两侧拟建防波堤为工程背景,应用海岸动力学原理,建立了海岸演变的一线模型。模型考虑波浪的绕射,考虑了沿岸波高不等所引起的沿岸输沙。通过实际岸线与模拟岸线的对比分析,论证了该模型是成功的。应用该模型对粤东后江湾修筑拦沙堤后的岸线演变进行预报,其结果表明,在海湾两岬角处海滩侵蚀,湾顶堤头处海滩淤积。东北岸段拦沙堤处海滩的淤积速率为5~6m/a,西南岸段为4~5m/a。  相似文献   

5.
以山东省沿海港口为研究对象,采用基于IPCC第五次评价中RCP8.5情景的渤海、黄海海平面上升速率数据和山东省沿海地区地壳垂直运动速率数据,估算各港区自2019年到2100年相对海平面上升数据,获得以下研究结果:滨州港为0.956 m,东营港为0.794 m,潍坊港为0.47 m,龙口港为0.308 m,日照港为0.181 m,蓬莱港为0.143 m,烟台西港、烟台芝罘湾港区、威海港和青岛港均为0.14 m。结果表明,(1)相对海平面上升增大了港口航道的最大通行能力,其中,东营港、潍坊港、龙口港和滨州港最大通行能力绝对增加量大,分别为3.97×104t、3.5×104t、1.54×104t和1.54×104t;滨州港、东营港、潍坊港和龙口港相对增加量大,分别为51.21%、39.7%、35%和10.27%。(2)相对海平面上升使碎波线更接近防波堤,其中,滨州港、东营港和潍坊港,碎波线向防波堤移动距离大,分别为2 867 m、1 588 m和940 m。(3)相对海平面上升增大防波堤越浪量,其中,滨州港防波堤、东营港北防波堤和潍坊港中港区防波堤越浪量增长率高,分别为34.32%、34.17%和32.88%。(4)滨州港、东营港、潍坊港和龙口港应适时增大进、出港口轮船的最大吨位,以充分利用增大的最大通行能力的条件;滨州港、东营港和潍坊港应适时抛石或安装扭王字块来加固防波堤,以应对碎波线不断接近,激浪流冲击增强的不利影响,防止防波堤遭受破坏;滨州港应增高防波堤胸墙1 m以上,东营港北防波堤和潍坊港中港区防波堤应增加防波堤胸墙,高度分别在0.8 m以上和0.5 m以上,以防止越浪量增大对港池环境的干扰。研究结果和结论可为未来山东省沿海港口建设提供参考。  相似文献   

6.
Multibeam swath bathymetric data collected in 95–120 m water depth on Australia’s North West Shelf revealed two distinct populations of sand waves: a laterally extensive, low-amplitude composite form comprising superimposed dunes and ripples, and a laterally restricted form which has unusually high bedform heights and slopes. These large subaqueous sand waves comprise bioclastic ooid/peloid sand. Significantly, evidence of seabed fluid flow was detected in association with the high-amplitude sand waves. This evidence includes seabed pockmarks approximately 2–15 m in diameter imaged with side-scan sonar, tubular and massive carbonate concretions dredged from the seabed, and potential active venting of a fluid plume from the seabed observed during an underwater camera tow. Molecular and isotopic analyses of carbonate concretions collected from within pockmarks associated with the high-amplitude sand waves indicate that the fluids from which they precipitated comprise modern seawater and are not related to thermogenic fluids or microbial gases. The fluid flow is interpreted to be driven by macrotidal currents flowing over the relatively steep slopes of the high-amplitude sand waves. Pockmarks and carbonate concretions then develop where the interstitial flows are confined and focused by subsurface ‘mounds’ in a shallow seismic reflector.  相似文献   

7.
The foundations of nearshore and offshore structures are always subjected to long-term cyclic loading which is often a one-way, with low amplitude and a large number of cycles. Hence, the long-term dynamic behaviour of shoreline soils and sediments should be understood to avoid excessive deformation and liquefaction. As one of the most problematic soft soils in Melbourne, Coode Island Silt (CIS) at the northern shoreline of Port Phillip Bay contains a considerable but variable amount of sand. This paper explores the dynamic response of CIS containing different sand content subjected to a large number of cycles. To determine the liquefaction potential, and the effect of sand content on the resilient modulus and permanent strain of CIS, a series of long-term cyclic triaxial tests at a sinusoidal loading frequency of 1 Hz is performed. Based on the test results, it is found that CIS with varying sand content up to 30%, does not liquefy under the cyclic stress ratios and frequency applied in this study. Also, a sand content of 10% causes CIS to degrade more under cyclic loading. In the end, an empirical model to predict the permanent strain of CIS with a variable sand content is calibrated.  相似文献   

8.
为了解近年南海明珠项目、葫芦岛、秀英港扩建工程等人工填海工程对海口湾冲淤变化的影响,基于FVCOM海洋数值模型,对研究区人工填海前后潮流场、波浪场及冲淤变化进行了数值模拟。人工填海后,综合各条件下的冲淤情况,海口湾受潮流和波浪共同作用大部分区域处于淤积状态,年淤积量预测值为0.1~1.0 m;白沙角等局部区域处于侵蚀状态,年冲刷量预测值为0.1~0.3 m;受海口湾人工填海工程的影响,秀英港航道的水动力条件减弱,对通航条件改善有利,需加强航道的水深监测和定时的清淤工作;在南海明珠人工岛南侧波影区泥沙堆积会形成向海的舌状的突出体,其两侧海岸形成侵蚀后退带,需人工补沙等措施以保证岸线稳定。  相似文献   

9.
Surficial sediment distribution within Simpson Bay is a function of antecedent bedrock and recently deposited glacial geology, as well as active physical processes both within Simpson Bay and Prince William Sound (PWS). Simpson Bay is a turbid, outwash fjord located in northeastern PWS, Alaska. Freshwater from heavy precipitation, and the melting of high alpine glaciers enter the bay through bay head rivers and small shoreline creeks. The catchment has a high watershed/basin surface area ratio (∼8:1), and easily erodible bedrock that contribute to high sediment loads. The system can be divided into three discrete basins, each with specific morphologic and circulatory characters. Side scan sonar, swath bathymetry, and seismic profiles reveal that bathymetric highs are areas of outcropping glacial surfaces. High backscatter coupled with surface grab samples reveal these surfaces to be composed of coarse sediment and bedrock outcrops. Bathymetric lows are areas of low backscatter, and grab samples reveal these areas to be ponded deposits of organic-rich estuarine muds. The data provide evidence of terminal morainal bank systems, and glacial grounding line deposits at the mouth of the bay and rocky outcrops were identified as subsurface extensions of aerial rocky promontories. Radioisotope analyses of short cores reveal that the bay has an average accumulation rate of approx. 0.5 cm year−1, but that this varies in function of the watershed/basin surface area ratios of the different basins. The interaction of tidal currents and sediment source drives sediment distribution in Simpson Bay. Hydrographic data reveal high spatial variability in surface and bottom currents throughout the bay. Subsurface currents are tide dominated, but generally weak (5–20 cm s−1), while faster currents are found along shorelines, outcrops, and bathymetric highs. Bathymetric data reveal steep slopes with little to no modern sediment throughout the bay, suggesting lack of deposition due to tidal currents.  相似文献   

10.
The studies carried out by the Karpinskii All-Russia Research Institute of Geology using side-scan profiling, echo sounding, and surface sediment sampling allowed revealing the detailed structure of the underwater coastal slope in the eastern Gulf of Finland. In particular, a submarine sand terrace was found at depths of 4–5 m. An attempt at the reconstruction of the coastal evolution over the period of the Late Holocene was made using mathematical modeling in order to explain the observed morphology of the submarine coastal slope. The key assumption of the concept suggested is that, at the earlier stage, the tectonic processes played the main role, while, at the later stage, the sea-level changes were of greater importance. The tectonic block comprising the investigated area of the Gulf of Finland at first rapidly increased and then it stabilized and was influenced by the sea level’s rise. These processes resulted in the formation of a series of terraces. The earlier of those are now located on dry land, while the later terraces are observed on the submarine slope. Within the concept proposed, the coastal evolution in the Late Holocene appears as a process of the gradual erosion of the above-water terraces and the formation of new underwater terraces. During the transgressive phases, the rate of the coast’s recession reached 0.5 m year−1, while decreasing by a factor of two during the intermediate stages. The submarine terrace developed over the period of 3.2–1.2 thousand years ago, and it extended in equal measure due to the coast’s recession and the material’s accumulation near its external edge. During that period, the coast retreated by approximately 500 m, while the average accumulation rate could have been as high as 0.7 m3 m−1 year−1.  相似文献   

11.
The egg production rate (EPR) of Calanus sinicus was measured from March 2007 to April 2010 at three stations along the Korean coast of the Yellow Sea (in coastal waters off Saemangum, Yeongheungdo, and Asan Bay) to estimate in situ maximum egg production rate (MEPR) and to understand whether the females were limited in their growth or fecundity in the field. The mean EPR of C. sinicus at each sampling date ranged from 10.3–34.9 eggs female−1 d−1 (mean 23.4 eggs female−1 d−1), and the EPR of individual copepods ranged from 0–81 eggs female−1 d−1. The mean EPR was positively correlated with the body weight of female copepods. The MEPR at each sampling date ranged from 40–81 eggs female−1 d−1 (mean 50.4 eggs female−1 d−1). Over 84% of eggs spawned hatched successfully. The weight-specific growth rate (WSGR) ranged from 0.038–0.111 d−1 (mean 0.082 d−1), indicating that 3.8–11.1% of the carbon in an adult female was produced daily as female growth. The WSGR was negatively correlated with water temperature. The ratio of mean EPR to observed mean MEPR ranged from 20–70% (mean 46%), indicating that ∼54% of a female’s growth might be limited in the field. We suggest that the ratio of observed EPR to mean MEPR of copepod can be applied to understand how the copepod responds to environmental changes, as well as EPR and hatching success.  相似文献   

12.
The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m3/year and 4 600 m3/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne.  相似文献   

13.
In the course of the expedition of the Pacific Oceanological Institute in August 2007, extensive hypoxia was found in the near-bottom layer of the Amur Bay water mass. The hypoxia’s formation was immediately reflected in the values and distribution of the carbonate parameters in the near-bottom waters of the bay. The maximum values of the carbon dioxide partial pressure, the dissolved inorganic carbon, and the total alkalinity were associated with the areas of the minimum oxygen content. The microbial destruction of the dead phytoplankton greatly increased the partial pressure of carbon dioxide, which was over 2000 μatm in the hypoxia centers at a depth of about 20 m. At the same time, the carbon dioxide partial pressure in the surface waters of Amur Bay was considerably lower than that in the atmosphere. Hence, the bay’s aquatic area was a sink for the atmospheric CO2 despite its high content in the near-bottom waters. It was shown that the excess alkalinity associated with the hypoxia sites in the near-bottom layer of water was caused by the sulfate reduction proceeding in the upper layer of the sediment.  相似文献   

14.
Analysis of four historical bathymetric surveys over a 132-year period has revealed significant changes to the morphology of the San Francisco Bar, an ebb-tidal delta at the mouth of San Francisco Bay estuary. From 1873 to 2005 the San Francisco Bar vertically-eroded an average of 80 cm over a 125 km2 area, which equates to a total volume loss of 100 ± 52 million m3 of fine- to coarse-grained sand. Comparison of the surveys indicates the entire ebb-tidal delta contracted radially, with the crest moving landward an average of 1 km. Long-term erosion of the ebb-tidal delta is hypothesized to be due to a reduction in the tidal prism of San Francisco Bay and a decrease in coastal sediment supply, both as a result of anthropogenic activities. Prior research indicates that the tidal prism of the estuary was reduced by 9% from filling, diking, and sedimentation. Compilation of historical records dating back to 1900 reveals that a minimum of 200 million m3 of sediment has been permanently removed from the San Francisco Bay coastal system through dredging, aggregate mining, and borrow pit mining. Of this total, ∼54 million m3 of sand-sized or coarser sediment was removed from central San Francisco Bay. With grain sizes comparable to the ebb-tidal delta, and its direct connection to the bay mouth, removal of sediments from central San Francisco Bay may limit the sand supply to the delta and open coast beaches.  相似文献   

15.
Through 10 years of support from the Minerals Management Service Association of American State Geologists' Continental Margins Program we have mapped along the Maine coast, seaward to the 100 m isobath. In all, 1,773 bottom sample stations were occupied, 3,358 km of side-scan sonar and 5,011 km of seismic reflection profiles were gathered. On the basis of these data, a surficial sediment map was created for the Maine inner continental shelf during the Year 8 project, and cores and seismic data were collected to evaluate sand thickness during Years 9 and 10. Sand covers only 8 % of the Maine shelf, and is concentrated seaward of beaches off southern Maine in water depths less than 60 m. Sand occurs in three depositional settings: (1) in shoreface deposits connected dynamically to contemporary beaches; (2) in submerged deltas associated with lower sea-level positions; and (3) in submerged lowstand shoreline positions between 50 and 60 m. Seismic profiles over the shoreface off Saco Bay, Wells Embayment, and off the Kennebec River mouth each imaged a wedge-shaped acoustic unit which tapered off between 20 and 30 m. Cores determined that this was sand that was underlain by a variable but thin (commonly 1 m) deposit of estuarine muddy sand and a thick deposit of glacial-marine mud. Off Saco Bay, more than 55 million m3 of sand exists in the shoreface, compared with about 22 million m3 on the adjacent beach and dunes. Seaward of the Kennebec River, a large delta deposited between 13 ka and the present time holds more than 300 million m3 of sand and gravel. The best sorted sand is on the surface nearshore, with increasing amounts of gravel offshore and mud beneath the surficial sand sheet. Bedforms indicate that the surficial sand is moved by waves to at least 55 m depth. Seaward of the Penobscot River, no significant sand or gravel was encountered. Muddy estuarine sediments overlie muddy glacial-marine sediment throughout the area offshore area of this river. No satisfactory explanation is offered for lack of a sandy delta seaward of Maine's largest river. Lowstand-shoreline deposits were cored in many places in Saco Bay and off the Kennebec River mouth. Datable materials from cores indicated that the lowstand occurred around 10.5 ka off the Kennebec. Cores did not penetrate glacial-marine sediment in the lowstand deposits, and seismic profiles were ambiguous about the vertical extent of sand in these units. For these reasons, no total thickness of sand was determined from the lowstand deposits, but given the area of the surficial sand, the volume is probably in the hundreds of millions of cubic meters.  相似文献   

16.
17.
As the Agulhas Current flows along the south-east coast of South Africa, a number of processes operate that bring cold, deep water up onto the narrow shelf. As a consequence, upwelling along the coastline is enhanced farther southward and downstream. This situation is investigated off Algoa Bay and along the south-east coast to Port Alfred, where measurements demonstrate that marked temperature variability occurs at the coastline, particularly in summer when temperature structures are more intense and easterly-component winds more common. There is no indication that upwelling is more prevalent at Port Alfred; increasing variability farther south is evident at Woody Cape/Cape Padrone, where the coastline veers westwards, forming the eastern boundary of Algoa Bay. Here it is found that, after a wind change to north-easterly, cold water is upwelled along the shoreline between 19 hours and 2.5 days later. Such upwelling progresses north-eastwards with the movement of the wind and weather systems, although colder water also moves south-westwards into Algoa Bay. Winds, currents, sea level and sea temperatures are highly correlated, with fluctuations in sea level measuring >50 cm being associated with coastal trapped waves (CTWs). Such barotropic wind-driven CTWs are frequently active during upwelling, although it is unclear whether there is any interaction between the two phenomena.  相似文献   

18.
Through analysis of monthly in situ hydrographic, tide gauge, altimetry and Kuroshio axis data for the years 1993–2001, the intraannual variability of sea level around Tosa Bay, Japan, with periods of 2–12 months is examined together with the intraannual variability of the Kuroshio south of the bay. It is shown that the intraannual variation of steric height on the slope in Tosa Bay can account for that of sea level at the coast around the bay as well as on this slope. It is found that the steric height (or sea level) variation on the slope in this bay is mainly controlled by the subsurface thermal variation correlated with the Kuroshio variation off Cape Ashizuri, the western edge of Tosa Bay. That is, when the nearshore Kuroshio velocity south of the cape is intensified [weakened] concurrently with the northward [southward] displacement of the current axis, temperature in an entire water column decreases [increases] simultaneously, mainly due to the upward [downward] displacement of isotherms, coincident with that of the main thermocline. It follows that the steric height (or sea level) decreases [increases].  相似文献   

19.
The seasonal climatic circulation of the sea reconstructed on the basis of assimilation of new arrays of many-year average hydrological data in a model is analyzed. Five layers are discovered in the structure of climatic currents in the sea in depth: the surface Ekman layer (∼ 10 m), a layer with small vertical gradients of the kinetic energy (∼ 10–60 m), a layer with relatively high vertical gradients of the kinetic energy (∼ 60–150 m), a layer with gradual decrease in the kinetic energy and intensification (from 250–350 m) of the east cyclonic gyre and Batumi anticyclonic eddy (∼ 150–1000 m), and an abyssal layer characterized by an almost barotropic velocity (∼ 1000–2000 m). The specific features of the seasonal evolution of currents at these depths are investigated. It is shown that the key role in the formation of deep-water circulation of the sea is played by the south east flow, east cyclonic gyre, and Batumi anticyclonic eddy. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 6, pp. 28–45, November–December, 2005.  相似文献   

20.
The annual (2004–2006) series of probing using a multichannel filter-fluorimeter from the water’s surface to the bottom at fixed sites in Kaliningrad Bay and the adjacent areas were carried out. The following parameters were recorded: the water turbidity and temperature, the intensity of the fluorescence of the photosynthetic pigment (excitation at 450 nm, detection band 675–820 nm), and the intensity of the background fluorescence of the dissolved organic matter. The high levels of “red fluorescence” presumably related to the presence of photosynthetic bacterioplankton, live phytoplankton, or their mixture (which demands further biological identification) annually registered in the aphotic zone of the water column represent specific feature of the obtained data.  相似文献   

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