闽粤交界的大埕湾岸滩稳定分析及岸滩防护对策

本文在实地调查的基础上，通过对大埕湾沿岸输沙率变化和岸线形态的分析，综合探讨了该海湾的泥沙来源，沿岸泥沙迁移特征，岸滩冲淤动态以及海岸的演变趋势．结果表明：该湾沿岸带形成了一股朝W向迁移的波生泥沙流，泥沙主要来自诏安湾和宫口湾；该湾海岸除东部沙坝泻湖岸段略有淤伸外，其余岸段均处于侵蚀状态：随着泥沙来源的减少，海岸内凹蚀退是今后岸线调整的自然过程．文中还对大埕湾岸滩的防侵蚀提出了相应的对策建议。     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。     

砂质海岸岸滩侵蚀演变模式探讨——以山东南部海岸侵蚀岸段的岸滩演变为例

在分析山东南部海岸几十年来的地形观测资料的基础上，运用砂质海岸等深线变化预测理论，建立该区的岸滩侵蚀演变预测模型，研究了该区域岸滩演变规律。实测资料验证表明：预测结果合理，基本反映了本区岸滩演变的特征。     

海南岛南渡江三角洲北部沿岸的泥沙转运和岸滩运动

南渡江三角洲海岸可分为东部废弃侵蚀岸，北部泥沙转运岸西部淤涨堆积岸等三个岸段，北部岸段为了边接东、西部岸段，存在大规模的，有节奏的沿岸泥沙向西和向岸转运及其相应的岸滩运动现象，涨沙主要来自南渡江干流河口及其以东的废弃侵蚀岸。文中还结合对北部岸河口和沿岸泥沙转运规律的分析，讨论了波浪优势型河口三角洲特征及其堡岛海岸的形态、动态和泥沙来源以及人类活动对该岸段的影响等问题。     

海南岛南渡江三角洲北部沿岸的泥沙转运和岸滩运动

南渡江三角洲海岸可分为东部废弃侵蚀岸、北部泥沙转运岸和西部淤涨堆积岸等三个岸段。北部岸段为了连接东、西部岸段，存在大规模的、有节奏的沿岸泥沙向西和向岸转运及其相应的岸滩运动现象，泥沙主要来自南渡江干流河口及其以东的废弃侵蚀岸。文中还结合对北部岸段河口和沿岸泥沙转运现律的分析，讨论了波浪优势型河口三角洲特征及其堡岛海岸的形态、动态和泥沙来源以及人类活动对该岸段的影响等问题。     

南渡江三角洲海岸泥沙纵向运移与岸滩演变的响应

南渡三角洲沿岸在盛行ＮＮＥ向波浪等动力条件的作用下,泥沙产生纵向运移,岸滩遭受侵蚀或堆积,岸滩演变剧烈。本文利用基于网格的波注折射绕射模型,分析南渡江三角洲海岸波浪动力过程、破波带波能与辐射应力分布及其引起的沿岸泥沙纵向运称。浴海岸动力学地貌的角度,通过三角洲沿岸波浪动力特征、泥沙运动的分析,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变。     

泉州市砂质海岸侵蚀特征及原因分析

基于泉州市沿岸岸滩侵蚀状况调查,结合海岸动力地貌学知识研究,分析泉州市沿岸岸滩侵蚀状况.调查岸段有32个,对其进行采样拍照及侵蚀现状描述,对7个岸段进行了剖面调查及沉积物分析.研究表明泉州市沙质海岸以岬控岸和沙坝--泻湖为主,岬控岸的沉积物和剖面表现为中细粒沉积和岸坡由近岸向海变平缓,而沙坝--泻湖岸则以粗粒沉积和岸坡起伏不平为特征,沉积物特征、沿岸输沙、平衡剖面及动力地貌均反映了泉州砂质海岸的侵蚀状况.在全球海平面上升的大背景下,除特大自然灾害影响,泉州近海域的人为活动恶化了海岸侵蚀的程度,其中以海砂开采最为严重.     

莱州湾东岸沿岸输沙率及冲淤演化动态分析

采用美国<海岸防护手册>的CERC公式对莱州湾东岸的沿岸输沙率进行计算;同时根据莱州湾东岸自身特征,采用岬间海湾平面平衡形态经验模型-抛物线模型对莱州湾东岸的平衡状态进行预测,结合两者分析得出莱州湾东岸的冲淤演化动态:屺姆岛南侧西端略有冲刷;龙口湾顶基本无泥沙进出;招远岸段遭受严重的侵蚀;石虎咀处于淤积状态.针对侵蚀岸段提出了防止海岸蚀退的对策.     

人工岛影响下的海滩修复对策研究——以海口西海岸为例

人工岛建设在缓解滨海人地矛盾的同时带来新的环境问题。本研究聚焦人工岛建设引起的岸滩侵蚀与泥沙分配失衡问题,以海口西海岸为例,建立GENESIS岸线演变模型,探讨人工岛影响下的海滩地貌演化机制,并在此基础上提出“循环养护”的海滩修复对策。主要研究结论为:①海口湾南海明珠人工岛对邻近海滩的影响以“岛后方淤积、两侧侵蚀”为显著特征,且两侧侵蚀热点区的响应幅度存在明显差异。五源河口至新国宾馆岸段侵蚀更为强烈的主导因素为物源匮乏与岸线形态外凸。②通过人工补沙与循环养护相结合的生态修复措施,可实现岸滩泥沙的合理分配与地貌的动态平衡,有效缓解人工岛引起的海岸侵蚀问题。本研究成果可为国内相似类型海岸的岸滩修复提供良好的借鉴意义。     

铁山港湾水下动力地貌特征及其成因

探讨了铁山港湾的潮间浅滩、潮流冲刷深槽、潮流沙脊、水下拦门浅滩、水下岸坡和海底平原等水下动力地貌的形态特征及其成因,并结合沉积物的粒度、碎屑重矿物的分布特征,阐述了泥沙来源及运移趋势。     

四川盆地中南部地区中三叠统雷口坡组沉积相研究

川中南部地区中三叠统雷口坡组划分为3个相（开阔台地相、局限台地相、蒸发台地相）、4个亚相（潮下、泻湖、潮阃坪、潮上坪）和17个微相。沉积相横向上总体变化不大，岩性较统一，蒸发岩较发育，纵向上沉积相变化具有同步性。利用单因素法和优势相法，并结合层序地层学研究成果，把雷口坡组分为7个作图单元，较精确地展示了雷口坡纽不同层段的沉积相展布和演化。研究区内雷口坡期的相对海平面升降变化和台地次级洼隆相间的古地貌共同控制着沉积相带展布和演化。雷口坡组以局限台地相为主，主要发育在雷一段1亚段的台内滩微相，为储集体有利的发育相带，多发育于潮间高处与泻湖的过渡区附近相对高能带。     

苏北、长江口海岸的演变及其动态

连云港至杭州湾北岸,海岸线长达千余公里;其海岸为一低地堆积平原岸,由于古黄河及长江的固体径流等的影响,曾经历了一个复杂的演变过程。海岸与河口面临开阔的浅海海域,经受着潮流强风浪与径流的作用,其岸滩与河口沙岛的动态具有独特之处。 对于苏北及长江口海岸的一些基本问题,不少学者先后从不同角度进行过研究,本文仅就海岸演变及其动态论述如下。     

文登近岸海域表层沉积物分布特征及影响因素

根据2013年文登近岸海域130个表层沉积物样品资料,分析了研究区表层沉积物分布特征,结合表层沉积物起动流速、波浪破碎水深和潮流数值模拟等资料,初步探讨了表层沉积物分布格局的影响因素。结果表明,研究区表层沉积物主要包括砂、粉砂、黏土质粉砂等8种类型,由岸向海粒径变细、分选变差。母猪河、昌阳河主要影响研究区东部沉积物的分布,黄垒河主要影响研究区西部沉积物的分布,河流的存在控制着研究区沉积物分布的基本格局。"波浪掀沙,潮流输沙"控制了表层沉积物的分异,形成了研究区中部颗粒较粗,东西两侧颗粒较细的沉积物分布规律。     

Spatial organisation of macrozoobenthic communities in response to environmental factors in a coastal lagoon of the NW African coast (Merja Zerga,Morocco)

Merja Zerga lagoon, located on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, is a site of international value (Ramsar Site) in terms of its ornithological diversity. However, the lagoon is heavily exploited for its clams and fishes. In an effort to further understanding of lagoon ecosystems, and thus to facilitate the management and conservation of their resources, an ecological survey of its benthic component was carried out. Benthos is a valuable food source for birds, fishes and humans. This work involved identifying the macrozoobenthic communities in the lagoon and assessing their spatial distribution. The study was based on monthly sampling of the intertidal zone and seasonal sampling in subtidal zone, over a one-year period. In the intertidal zone, salinity and median diameter and silt content of the sediment exhibited a gradient extending from the entrance to the inner lagoon, according to tidal flow. Sediment grain size characteristics reflected a gradual decrease of tidal currents from the lagoon entrance towards the inner parts of the lagoon, i.e. silt content increased with distance from the entrance. In the subtidal zone, the tidal currents were fairly strong throughout the lagoon, leading to the presence of coarser sediments than in the intertidal zone. Based on these physical, chemical and substratum characteristics, three communities were identified: (i) Cerastoderma edule and (ii) Scrobicularia plana communities were located in both the intertidal and subtidal zones; and (iii) a Tapes decussata community that was only found in the subtidal zone. The assemblages in the subtidal zone were more diverse and the mean abundances of the constituent species were higher than in the intertidal zone, which is an interesting feature for a lagoon environment. Communities were distributed along an ecological gradient, without showing a discontinuity or ecotone. The lagoon functioned like an estuary in which the community structure was controlled by edaphic factors in the intertidal zone, and by the hydrological factors in the subtidal zone.     

厦门海沧进港航道口门浅滩的形成与演变

本文报道了九龙江口口门浅滩地貌，沉积特征和水文泥沙特性，探讨了九龙江口口门浅滩特别是厦门海沧进港航道（即鸡屿北水道）口门浅滩的形成与演变。结果表明，厦门海沧进港航道口门浅滩是在江流，海潮，咸淡水交汇等多种因素综合作用和影响下形成的，其冲淤演变过程与屿河口沙坝不断淤积扩大有着直接的关系。     

长江口北支入海河段的衰退机制

通过不同时期海图、水下地形图对比,论述了长江北支入海河段具有沙脊发育、河槽淤浅、南涨北塌、深泓北靠并逐渐向北平移的演变特征和衰退态势。据2003年11月同步潮位、潮流、悬沙和地形资料,经单宽潮量、输沙量和断面进出潮量计算发现：黄瓜沙北水道水沙大进大出以过往为主,南水道是水沙倒灌的主通道,潮速南小北大是河道南涨北塌并向北平移的动力机制,南水道涨落潮流均携沙输向江心是江心沙脊发育、黄瓜沙淤高的物质基础,进潮量大是导致泥沙倒灌、入海河段衰退的主要原因。     

潮间带小海湾围堤对湾外水下岸坡的影响

分析了杭州湾北岸一个潮间带小海湾－炮台湾及其前沿海域的流场、含沙量分布及水下地形的变化，指出小海湾内水流主要受湾外浅水水流控制，在独特的边界地影响下，湾内在不同时段内出现历时较短的水平环流，流场变化较快，小水深时水体含沙量较高，含沙量随水深和水流和变化而急剧变化。对湾外浅水水域水流的挟沙力了计算，并讨论了炮台湾围堤后水流挟沙力的变化，给出围堤后水下岸坡剖面变动的预测，经与实测比较，结果是令人满意的     

Evidence for sediment recirculation on an ebb-tidal delta of the East Frisian barrier-island system, southern North Sea

The Otzum ebb-tidal delta, located between Langeoog and Spiekeroog islands along the East Frisian barrier-island coast, southern North Sea, was investigated with respect to its morphological evolution, sediment distribution patterns and internal sedimentary structures. Bathymetric charts reveal that, over the last 50 years, the size of the Otzum ebb-tidal delta has slightly shrunk, while sediment has accreted on the ebb-delta lobe to the east of the main inlet channel (west of Spiekeroog). Swash bars superimposed on the eastern ebb-tidal shoal (Robben Plate) have migrated south or south-eastwards, i.e. towards the inlet throat. The main ebb-delta body is composed of fine quartz sand, whereas the superimposed swash bars and the inlet channel bed consist of medium-grained quartz sand containing high proportions of coarser bioclastic material. Internal sedimentary structures in short box-cores (up to 30 cm long) are dominated by flood-oriented cross-beds. Longer vibro-cores (up to 1.5 m long) show that, at depth, the sediment is dominated by storm-generated parallel (upper plane bed) laminations with intercalated shell layers and dune cross-bedding. The cross-bedded sands in both box-cores and vibro-cores from the ebb-delta shoal predominantly dip towards the south or southeast, indicating transport towards the inlet throat by the flood current. The observations demonstrate that, contrary to previous contentions, the sediments of the highly mobile swash bars do not bypass the inlet but are instead being continually recirculated by the combined action of tidal currents and waves. In this model, the cycle begins with both fine and medium sands, including shell hash, being transported seawards in the main ebb channel until they reach the shallow ebb-delta front. From here, the sediment is pushed onto the eastern ebb-delta shoal by the flood current assisted by waves, becoming strongly size-sorted in the process. The medium sands together with the shell hash are formed into swash bars which migrate along arcuate paths over a base of fine sand back to the main ebb channel located south of the ebb delta. By the same token, the fine sand between the swash bars is transported south-eastwards by the flood current in the form of small dunes until it cascades into the large flood channel located to the west of Spiekeroog. From here, the fine sand is fed back into the main ebb channel, thus completing the cycle. No evidence was found on the ebb delta for alongshore sediment bypassing.     

琼州海峡的一个三维泥沙扩散模式

通过建立一个三维陆架海数值模式来预报近海潮流和泥沙浓度的对流扩散,并应用于琼州海峡跨海工程的前期数值预测。预测结果表明,海区潮流的涨落、岸线形状、海底地形及源强位置与泥沙在近海的输运扩散关系密切,模拟情形基本合理,表明该模式适合应用于河口、近岸等涉海海洋工程海域的流场及泥沙扩散的三维数值预测,为相关的水动力环境要素和水质影响评价提供一定的参考价值。