The optimum dimensions for a long-range, autonomous, deep-diving, underwater vehicle for oceanographic research

From the results of a parameter optimization process based on a “minimum feasible volume” criterion, it is shown that the optimum shape for a transatlantic, deep-diving, autonomous submersible is a “low drag” hull shape with a displaced volume of 4.4 m³, a length of 5.97 m and a maximum diameter of 1.33 m. Calculations show that a vehicle of these dimensions, travelling in a minimum drag “cruise” configuration at a depth of 3000 m, say, and at a velocity of 2.5 m/sec could have a maximum range of 7000 km provided the “hotel” power consumption is kept low.     

The impact of shrimp trawling and associated sediment resuspension in mud dominated, shallow estuaries

To address the relative importance of shrimp trawling on seabed resuspension and bottom characteristics in shallow estuaries, a series of disturbance and monitoring experiments were conducted at a bay bottom mud site (2.5 m depth) in Galveston Bay, Texas in July 1998 and May 1999. Based on pre- and post-trawl sediment profiles of ⁷Be; pore water dissolved oxygen and sulfide concentration; and bulk sediment properties, it was estimated that the trawl rig, including the net, trawl doors, and “tickler chain,” excavate the seabed to a maximum depth of approximately 1.5 cm, with most areas displaying considerably less disturbance. Water column profile data in the turbid plume left by the trawl in these underconsolidated muds (85–90% porosity; <0.25 kPa undrained shear strength) demonstrate that suspended sediment inventories of up to 85–90 mg/cm² are produced immediately behind the trawl net; an order of magnitude higher than pre-trawl inventories and comparable to those observed during a 9–10 m/s wind event at the study site. Plume settling and dispersion caused suspended sediment inventories to return to pre-trawl values about 14 min after trawl passage in two separate experiments, indicating particles re-settle primarily as flocs before they can be widely dispersed by local currents. As a result of the passage of the trawl rig across the seabed, shear strength of the sediment surface showed no significant increase, suggesting that bed armoring is not taking place and the trawled areas will not show an increase in critical shear stress.     

Celtic and Armorican slope and shelf residual currents

Current meter data collected over the last 20 years are presented and used to describe the residual currents on the Celtic and Armorican slope and shelf regions. On the slopes, a poleward current of about 6cm s⁻¹ exists at the 500m depth contour. At mid depths, these currents are directed onslope, whereas near the bottom the flow in markedly downslope, reaching mean speeds of about 15cm s⁻¹ near 6°40′W. The downslope currents are thought to be largely tidally induced and balanced by Stokes transports. The total slope transport near 48°N is about 4Sv. On the upper slopes (<1000m depth) the transport increases poleward. On the outer Celtic shelf, a weak (2 cm s⁻¹) counter-current flowing southeastwards was observed. On the Armorican shelf, the residual flow is again nothwestwards and this coastal flow appears to continue northwards across the mouth of the English Chanel and past the Isles of Scilly with typical mean upper layer speeds of about 2cm s⁻¹. Southwest of Ireland the flow is again northwesterly. Numerical model simulations show that the eastern slope boundary current of the NE Atlantic can be driven by realistic distributions of seawater density. The simulations also show only a small wind driven barotropic response on the Celtic and Armorican shelf region and that a component of the residual shelf flows, like the slope current, may be driven by pressure distributions arising from regional differences in the distribution of seawater density, or from non local wind stress.     

Shoreline accretion and sand transport at groynes inside the Port of Richards Bay

The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m³/year and 4 600 m³/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne.     

Magnitude and cross-shore distribution of bed return flow measured on natural beaches

Field measurements of cross-shore currents 0.25 m from the bed were made on two natural beaches under a range of incident wave conditions. The results indicated the presence of a relatively strong, offshore-directed mean current, both within and seaward of the surf zone. Typical velocities within the surf zone were of the order of 0.2–0.3 m/s. This bed return flow, or “undertow”, represents a mass conservation response, returning water seaward that was initially transported onshore in the upper water column, primarily above the trough of the incident waves. The measurements demonstrated that the bed return flow velocity increases with the incident wave height. In addition, the crossshore distribution of the bed return flow is characterised by a mid-surf zone maximum, which exhibits a strong decrease in velocity towards the shoreline and a more gradual decay in the offshore direction. Several bed return flow models based on mass continuity were formulated to predict the cross-shore distribution of the bed return flow under an irregular wave field and were compared with the field data. Best agreement was obtained using shallow water linear wave theory, after including the mass transport associated with unbroken waves. The contribution of the unbroken waves enables net offshore-directed bottom currents to persist outside the region of breaking waves, providing a mechanism, other than rip currents, to transport sediment offshore beyond the surf zone.     

Identifying soft sediments at sea using GIS-modelled predictor variables and Sediment Profile Image (SPI) measured response variables

Macrofauna composition and diversity in soft sediments are commonly used as “health indicators” in various pollution monitoring programmes worldwide. Hence, finding a modelling method for predicting the presence of soft sediments and enable production of digital maps of where soft sediments are likely to be found would be valuable for developing a cost-effective sampling design. This study presents a first-generation model that can predict where to find soft sediments in coastal areas with a complex topography and a mosaic of seabed habitat types. We used geophysical data that were quantitative, objectively defined (through GIS modelling) and integrated over time. We analysed, using a Generalised Additive Model (GAM) and the model-selection approach Akaike Information Criterion (AIC), the influence of in-situ measured depth and GIS-modelled terrain structures, wave exposure and current speed on the distribution of soft sediment measured using a Sediment Profile Image (SPI) camera. Our analyses showed that the probability of finding soft sediment was best determined by depth, terrain curvature and median current speed at the seafloor. These predictors were used to develop a spatial predictive GIS-model/-map (for parts of Skagerrak, Norway, with a spatial resolution of 25 m × 25 m) of the probability of soft seabed occurrence.     

A new view of near-shore dynamics based on observations from HF Radar

Since 1984 the OSCR HF Radar system has been used in over 50 deployments to measure near-shore surface currents for both scientific and engineering applications. The enhanced scope, resolution and accuracy of these measurements have yielded new insights into the tidal, wind and density driven dynamics of the near-shore zone.Tidal current ellipses obtained from these radar measurements have been shown to be in good aggrement with values calculated by numerical models both for the predominant constituents and also for higher harmonics. Coherent patterns of wind-forced currents ahve been determined with strong evidence of a “slab-like” surface response. In one deployment, with offshore winds blowing over relatively deep water, this “slab” rotated clockwise at near-inertial frequency. Strong (up to 20cm s⁻¹), persistent surface residual currents are commonly observed, these are almost certainly generated by (small) horizontal density gradients. These observed surface residuals provide ideal data for rigorous testing of 3-D numerical models.With a threatened rise in sea level, HF Radar is well-suited for observing the expected changes in the dynamics of near-shore regions. Continuing development of these radar systems offers exciting prospects of remote sensing of both surface waves and currents. Future applications may extend beyond the near-shore region to measurements along the shelf-edge, in oceanic gyres and for “beach-processes”.     

Towing dynamics of a liferaft and fast rescue craft in a surface wave

The equations of motion for the coupled dynamics of a small liferaft and fast rescue craft in a surface wave are formulated in two dimensions using the methods of Kane and Levinson [1985. Dynamics: Theory and Applications. McGraw-Hill Inc., New York]. It is assumed that the motion normal to the wave surface is small and can be neglected, i.e. the bodies move along the propagating wave profile. The bodies are small so that wave diffraction and reflection are negligible. A Stokes second order wave is used and the wave forces are applied using Morison's equation for a body in accelerated flow. Wind loads are similarly modelled using drag coefficients. The equations are solved numerically using the Runge–Kutta routine “ode45” of MATLAB^®. The numerical model provides guidelines for predicting the tow loads and motions of small craft in severe sea states.     

Seakeeping performance of a containment boom section in random waves and currents

The seakeeping characteristics of various boom geometries in irregular waves and currents are investigated. The response of a floating boom section on the open sea is a function of a number of parameters, such as boom geometry, distribution of mass, buoyancy/weight ratio, and wave and current characteristics. To understand the relationship between these design parameters more clearly, a series of regular and irregular wave tests were conducted with six different 1:4 scale models for three current velocities and six different wave conditions. To simplify the problem, only rigid boom sections consisting of a buoyancy cylinder and vertical skirt were used. In parallel with this experimental program, a numerical model for the responses of two-dimensional floating boom sections in small-amplitude waves is also developed. The numerical results are compared with our large-scale experimental results. The boom effectiveness on the open sea is evaluated based on the concept of “effective draft” and “effective freeboard” assuming that drainage and oversplashing failures are the prime mechanisms of containment failure. Using the present results, a guideline for the optimum design/selection of future booms is developed.     

Deep and Bottom Currents in the Challenger Deep,Mariana Trench,Measured with Super-Deep Current Meters

The bottom currents in the Challenger Deep, the deepest in the world, were measured with super-deep current meters moored at 11°22′ N and 142°35′ E, where the depth is 10915 m. Three current meters were set at 9687 m, 10489 m and 10890 m at the station in the center of the Challenger Deep for 442 days from 1 August 1995 to 16 October 1996. Although rotor revolutions in 60 minutes of recording interval were zero for 37.5% of the time, the maximum current at the deepest layer of 10890 m was 8.1 cm s⁻¹, being composed of tidal currents, inertia motion and long period variations. Two current meters were set at 6608 m and 7009 m at a station 24.9 km north of the center for 443 days from 31 July 1995 to 16 October 1996, and two current meters at 6214 m and 6615 m at a station 40.9 km south of the center for 441 days from 2 August 1995 to 16 October 1996. The mean flow at 7009 m depth at the northern station was 0.7 cm s⁻¹ to 240°T, and that at 6615 m depth at the southern station was 0.5 cm s⁻¹ to 267°T. A westward mean flow prevailed at the stations, and no cyclonic circulation with mean flows of the opposite directions was observed in the Mariana Trench at a longitude of 142°35′ E. Power spectra of daily mean currents showed three spectral peaks at periods of 100 days, 28–32 days and 14–15 days. The peak at 100 day period was common to the power spectra.     

Transient wind drift currents in a tidal inlet: Theoretical analysis of Ekman drift current and field experiments in Suonada,the Seto Inland Sea

Time-dependent wind drift currents in a basin with finite depth have been solved analytically in order to understand their fundamental behavior in coastal waters. The drift currents due to the land/sea breeze, as a typical example of time-dependent winds, have been examined with attention to the manner of their oscillation in their vertical profiles. The theoretical analysis indicates that the drift current due to the land/sea breeze might be amplified effectively around the southern part of Japan, where the oscillating period of the wind is near to the inertial period. The analysis of the physical process of the drift current reveals the following two important aspects: the Ekman boundary layer in a rotating frame is physically consistent with the Stokes boundary layer due to oscillating currents in an inertial frame, and so the inertial motion due to the wind is dispersed to the deeper level by the vertical viscosity in a rotating frame. The harmonic analysis was performed for the residual data after removal of the four main tidal constituents, M2, S2, K1 and O1, from the raw data observed in Suonada sound, the Seto Inland Sea. The feature of the analytically solved drift currents corresponded well to the observed picture. The vertical viscosity in this field has been estimated at 10⁻³ m²/s by adjusting the harmonically analytical result of the observed data to the vertical profile of the analytically solved drift current.     

南海北部东沙岛附近的内潮和余流特征

采用东沙岛附近的一个长达9个月的锚定潜标的观测资料对南海北部的正压潮、内潮和余流情况进行了分析,得到了当地正压潮和内潮的特征。此处正压潮流以全日潮为主,秋、冬季相对较大,春季相对较小;正压余流受海盆尺度环流和地形的限制,在潜标观测期间的秋、冬、春三季基本以偏西向的正压流为主。内潮同正压潮一样,也以全日分潮为主,潮流椭圆随水深发生旋转,在110—120m附近存在内潮非常弱的一层。斜压余流在2009年2—3月比较异常,这是由于在此其间有一个中尺度涡经过。对此潜标数据采用经验正交函数分解的方法进行分析,发现海流的各个主要EOF模态与内波的垂向模态结构有一定的关联。     

Precise Multibeam Acoustic Bathymetry

The maximum error in ocean depth measurement as specified by the International Hydrographic Organization is 1% for depth greater than 30m. Current acoustic multibeam bathymetric systems used for depth measurement are subject to errors from various sources which may significantly exceed this limit. The lack of sound speed profiles may be one significant source of error. Because of the limited ability of sound speed profile measurement, depth values are usually estimated using an assumed profile. If actual sound speed profiles are known, depth estimate errors can be corrected using ray-tracing methods. For depth measurements, the calculation of the location at which a sound pulse impinges on the sea bottom varies with the variation of the sound speed profile. We demonstrate that this location is almost unchanged for a family of sound speed profiles with the same surface value and the same area under them. Based on this observation, we can construct a simple constant-gradient equivalent sound speed profile to correct errors. Compared with ray-tracing methods, the equivalent sound speed profile method is more efficient. If a vertical depth is known (or independently measured), then depth correction for a multibeam system can be accomplished without knowledge of the actual sound speed profile. This leads to a new type of precise acoustic multibeam bathymetric system.     

Precise Multibeam Acoustic Bathymetry

The maximum error in ocean depth measurement as specified by the International Hydrographic Organization is 1% for depth greater than 30m. Current acoustic multibeam bathymetric systems used for depth measurement are subject to errors from various sources which may significantly exceed this limit. The lack of sound speed profiles may be one significant source of error. Because of the limited ability of sound speed profile measurement, depth values are usually estimated using an assumed profile. If actual sound speed profiles are known, depth estimate errors can be corrected using ray-tracing methods. For depth measurements, the calculation of the location at which a sound pulse impinges on the sea bottom varies with the variation of the sound speed profile. We demonstrate that this location is almost unchanged for a family of sound speed profiles with the same surface value and the same area under them. Based on this observation, we can construct a simple constant-gradient equivalent sound speed profile to correct errors. Compared with ray-tracing methods, the equivalent sound speed profile method is more efficient. If a vertical depth is known (or independently measured), then depth correction for a multibeam system can be accomplished without knowledge of the actual sound speed profile. This leads to a new type of precise acoustic multibeam bathymetric system.     

Moored fish cage dynamics in waves and currents

Recent work in the area of open ocean aquaculture system dynamics has focused separately upon either the response of fish cages in waves or the steady drag response due to ocean currents. In reality, however, forcing on these open ocean structures is a nonlinear, multidirectional combination of both wave and current profiles. At the University of New Hampshire-operated Open Ocean Aquaculture site, data were collected from a wave measurement buoy and a downward-looking Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler to characterize the surface elevation and water velocity profiles during an extreme northeast storm event. In addition to waves and currents, fish cage motion response in heave, surge, and pitch was inferred from accelerometer measurements during the same storm. The environmental data sets obtained during the peak of the storm were processed, analyzed, and used as input to a dynamic finite-element model. Simulations were performed using three load case scenarios: 1) in both waves and currents; 2) in waves only; and 3) in currents only. Model motion response results in both the time and frequency domain were compared with data obtained in situ . In addition to the motion response tests, the wave and current forcing influencing the mooring line tension response was also investigated. Analysis shows that in this case, the currents do not severely influence the oscillatory motion response, but do cause the cage to tilt, layback, and sink. The wave and current interaction effect did, however, influence the anchor line loads with a portion being attributed to nonlinear effects.     

An estimate of water mass transformation in the southern Weddell Sea

Bottom water formation changes the characteristics of water masses entering the southern part of the Weddell Sea through atmosphere-ice-ocean interaction in which both sea and shelf ice play an important role. Modified water, in particular Weddell Sea Bottom Water, recirculates in the west. By comparing the in- and outflowing water masses we have estimated transformation rates on the basis of a data set obtained during the Winter Weddell Gyre Study from September to October 1989. This consisted of a salinity-temperature-depth (CTD) section carried out by R/V “Polarstern” from the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula to Kapp Norvegia and data from three current meter moorings maintained from 1989 to 1990 in the eastern boundary current off Kapp Norvegia. Because of the lack of sufficient direct current measurements in the interior and the western boundary current, it was necessary to derive mass transports on the basis of available data combined with physical and geometrical arguments. At the mooring site barotropic currents were measured. They were extrapolated to the interior under the assumption that wind-driven, baroclinic and barotropic current fields are of similar shape. The location of the gyre centre was determined from drifting buoy tracks and geopoten-tial anomaly. A linear current profile from the eastern boundary current to the centre of the gyre was assumed, and the western outflow was determined according to mass conservation. Different assumptions on the transition from the boundary current to the interior and the location of the centre result in a wide range of transports with most likely values between 20 and 56 Sv. The total mass transport was split into individual water masses. Differences between inflow and outflow result in a transformation rate of 3–4 Sv from Winter and Warm Deep Water to Antarctic and Weddell Sea Bottom Water. The net heat and salt transport across the transect implies heat fluxes from the ocean to the atmosphere of 3–10 W m⁻² and ice formation rates of 0.2–0.35 m year⁻¹.     

Observation of the abyssal current in the West Mariana Basin

In order to investigate long-term variations of deep sea currents and temperature in the western North Pacific, a direct current measurement was made at 12.5°N, 137°E from July 1985 to July 1986. The current meter was moored at a depth of about 4,000 m (bottom depth 4,604 m) in the West Mariana Basin, very close to the deep water passage to the North Pacific Basin. Throughout the observed period, the current flows southward with an average speed of 0.8 cm sec^–1. There are significant variations of both currents and temperature within the period of 60 days. For the shorter time scales, in addition to the tidal oscillations with one day and half day periods, there is a notable spectral peak of the current with a clockwise rotation at a period of 2.2 days, which is slightly shorter than the local inertial period of 2.3 days.The observed southward current seems to indicate that the deep sea water in the West Mariana Basin flows out through the sill which is deeper than 4,000 m and is located about 200 km southeast of the mooring point. A simple analysis of the linear plane wave indicates that the medium time-scale variation with a period of 60 days is associated with the barotropic Rossby wave whose wavelength is 390 km and whose trough direction is 30° clockwise from the north.     

An experimental investigation of hydrodynamic coefficients for a vertical truncated rectangular cylinder due to regular and random waves

The research into hydrodynamic loading on ocean structures has concentrated mostly on circular cross-section members and relatively limited work has been carried out on wave loading on other cross-sections such as rectangular sections. These find applications in many offshore structures as columns and pontoons in semi-submersibles and tension-leg platforms. The present investigation demonstrates the behaviour of rectangular cylinders subject to wave loading and also supplies the hydrodynamic coefficients for the design of these sections.This paper presents the results of wave forces acting on a surface piercing truncated rectangular cylinder set vertically in a towing tank. The experiments are carried out in a water depth of 2.2 m with regular and random waves for low Keulegan–Carpenter number up to 6. The rectangular cylinder is of 2 m length, 0.2 m breadth and 0.4 m width with a submergence depth of 1.45 m from still water level. Based on Morison equation, the relationship between inertia and drag coefficients are evaluated and are presented as a function of KC number for various values of frequency parameter β, for two aspect ratios of cylinders, equals to 1/2 and 2/1. Drag and inertia coefficients obtained through regular wave tests are used for the random wave analysis to compute the in-line force spectrum.The results of the experiments show the drag and inertia coefficients are strongly affected by the variation in the aspect ratios of the cylinder. The drag coefficients decreases and inertia coefficients increases with increase in Keulegan–Carpenter number up to the range of KC number tested. The random wave results show a good correlation between measured and computed force spectrums. The transverse forces in both regular and random waves are found to be small compared to in-line forces.