斜向不规则波入、反射波分离的实验研究

斜向入射的不规则波在海岸结构物前发生反射形成入、反射波共存的波浪场,对这种物理场的入、反射波的分离是海岸工程研究的一个重要课题.改进了一种可用于斜向入射的不规则波分离的两点法,使得测波阵列的两波高仪可布置在结构物前任何方向上.将此方法应用于三维波浪水池的物理模型试验研究,试验了不同的两波高仪的组合、不同的基床高度、不同的入射方向和不同的波浪要素等各种条件对分离结果的影响,结果表明,各种情况在满足非奇异条件下可得到较好的分离结果.该方法计算简便,可以给出较准确的反射系数和入、反射波的频谱.     

分离入射波与反射波的解析方法

提出了一种新的分离入射波和反射波的解析方法（AM）。利用两点处的 波高信息，运用Hilbert变换得到波浪信号在复域内的解析表达式，不需要计算合成波高和相位差即可实现信号的分离。根据分离结果，可以精确地估计入射波与反射波的幅值以及反射系数等参数，能够获得入射波与反射波之间的相位信息，并且可方便地用于不规则波的分离。文中通过数值模拟与物理模型实验对AM法进行了检验，所得的结果与实际值非常吻合。     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

斜向入反射波分离的数值模拟研究

改进了Goda分离单向入反射波频谱的方法，给出的新方法可应用于斜向入反射波的分离，且测波仪器对的方向可按任意角度布置。当两测点在入射波方向上的投影距离为入射波半波长的倍数时，该方法会出现奇异问题。建议取两测点在入射波方向上投影距离为峰频波长的0．05－0．45倍。这时可得到较好的结果。文中采用数值模拟的方法对模拟波列进行了分离，分离出的波谱与输入的靶谱基本一致，通过分离出的入反射波频谱计算出的各波面过程与输入的各过程线也基本相近，并能较准确地给出结构的反射系数，由此说明该方法是可靠的。     

不规则波试验中入射波、反射波波形的分离

采用不规则波对斜坡式防波堤进行了试验。不仅对入射波、反射波的波谱进行了分离,而且模拟合成了入射波、反射波的波形。明确了不同特征波的反射率也不同;反射波与入射波比较,波高分布有变化且波数减少,周期变长。将入射波、反射波的波形叠加后得到的合成波形与实测合成波形吻合较好,验证了波形分离方法的正确性。     

基于间断有限元方法的三维近岸波生流数值模型建立

在三维水动力模型中引入三维辐射应力,水滚影响以及波浪附加紊动效应,并基于间断有限元方法建立了非结构化网格三维波生流数值模型。采用实验室内斜坡地形条件下正向入射波在破波带附近产生的近底回流和斜向入射波产生的沿岸流对模型进行了验证。结果表明,计算值与实测值吻合程度较好,该模型可以较好地描述三维近岸波生流。     

潜堤后高阶自由谐波的研究

基于高阶边界元方法的完全非线性数值水槽模型模拟潜堤地形上波浪的传播变形,通过与实验值进行比较,考察数学模型的正确性.采用两点法分离得到堤后高倍频自由波来研究入射波参数、水深对堤后高倍频自由波的影响.研究发现:基频波、二阶和三阶自由波幅值分别与入射波波幅成线性、二次和三次函数关系,基频波幅值基本不随波浪周期变化,而二阶和...     

开孔沉箱在斜向入射波作用下受力研究

应用透空壁内流体速度与壁两侧的压力差成正比的线性模型,研究了斜向波与无限多个开孔沉箱的相互作用.依照结构物的几何形状,把整个流域分成无限多个子域,在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法对速度势进行展开.对于沉箱内的波浪运动,引入相位差概念;在构造反射波模型时,考虑了结构物的几何形状影响.列举出物理模型实验结果与数值实验结果的比较,可以看出两者吻合较好.进一步的数值计算验证表明,当孔隙系数无限大时,开孔墙前后的速度非常接近.在低频入射波作用下,垂直于沉箱的水平力随角度的变大而减小,平行于沉箱排列方向的力则变大.     

斜向不规则波对直墙作用的实验研究

通过长峰不规则波和方向波谱对直墙作用的实验研究 ,分别给出了每延米斜向不规则波波浪力与正向力之比 ,方向波谱波浪力与斜向长峰不规则波波浪力之间的关系 ,通过与规则波实验结果的比较给出了斜向规则波与不规则波波浪力之间的相对关系 ;并对斜向不规则波的反射系数与正向波时的变化作出了分析     

不规则波浪的实验室模拟

众所周知,海浪是一种相当复杂的不规则的波动现象。现已发现不少工程课题中,如单点系泊等浮式结构的动力反应、波浪的折射与绕射、护岸越浪以及斜堤护面块体的稳定性等,都必须考虑波浪的不规则性。因此采用不规则波进行模型试验已成为当务之急.目前国内外部在大力开展这方面的研究工作,日本已正式把不规则波浪纳入新港工规范,国内不少单位已经或正在研制或引进不规则造波机。本文将系统地介绍和探讨波浪模型试验中不规则波浪的模拟方法和入射波、反射波的确定方法。     

Separation of regular waves by a transfer function method

This paper presents a transfer function method (TFM) which can separate a regular wave field into incident and reflected waves based on the linear wave theory. The TFM uses specific transfer functions and corresponding convolution integrals to separate time series data measured in a combined partial standing wave system into incident and reflected waves. After this separation, estimation of the reflection coefficient becomes very easy. All manipulations have been performed in time domain. Furthermore, this method does not involve the calculation of wave heights and/or phase differences. The present method is demonstrated through numerical sample and physical model experiments carried out in a wave flume. Compared with other methods, the TFM gives much better estimates of the incident wave heights for physical model experiments in this study.     

Decomposing damped incident and reflected waves using correlation and quasi-linearization methods

Water waves propagating over a layer of soft mud or submerged aquatic vegetation can drastically attenuate over distances comparable to several wave lengths. The attenuation in the case of mud has been found previously to be reasonably described by an exponential decay. Waves reflect from beaches and any structures that they impact. The reflected waves affect wave heights measured in the field or laboratory wave basins.Decomposition of small amplitude waves into incident and reflected waves is a linear problem. However, the presence of the exponential damping introduces nonlinearity to the decomposition problem and requires an iterative process for solving the problem. Despite considerable experimental research on attenuation of waves over mud, none of the existing methods for decomposition of incident and reflected waves have accounted for this case.Here, the Newton Algorithm was used to account for the effect of wave decay over mud by quasi-linearizing the nonlinear equations. Also, a second method using a new error function and a commercial nonlinear solver was proposed in both time and frequency domain. The performance of both methods has been verified using artificial as well as laboratory data.     

Interaction of oblique waves with infinite number of perforated caissons

An analytic solution based on the division of the fluid domain is developed for the interaction of obliquely incident waves with infinite number of perforated caissons. The whole fluid domain is firstly divided into infinite sub-domains according to the division of structures, and subsequently eigenfunction expansion is employed to represent the velocity potential in each domain. A phase relation is utilized for the analysis of wave oscillation in each caisson, and the character of structure geometry is considered in setting up the mathematical model of reflection waves. The reflection waves from the present analysis include many propagation waves traveling in different directions when the incident wave frequency is high. Benchmark examinations show that the continuous condition of water particle velocity is satisfied at the front walls of caissons, and the reflection coefficients keep agreement with the energy conservation relation very well when porous effect parameter is infinite. Numerical results show that the reflection coefficients of obliquely incident waves are smaller when the length of caissons is shorter at low frequency. The wave reflection coefficients and the wave forces normal to caissons decrease and the wave forces along caissons increase with the increase of the wave incident angle.     

Wave kinematics of partial reflection from a vertical wall

A third-order perturbation approximation for the partial reflection from a vertical wall is presented in this paper. The wave parameters are expressed in terms of the amplitude of incident waves. The reflection coefficient is defined as the ratio of the height of reflected waves to incident waves. The numerical results demonstrate the significant influences of reflected coefficient on the wave profile and wave frequency bifurcation. For example, the critical angle of wave frequency bifurcation with partial reflection is about 7.5 degrees, not 21 degrees as reported previously for fully reflection.     

Separation of incident and reflected waves in wave–current flumes

A technique is developed to separate the incident and reflected waves propagating on a known current in a laboratory wave–current flume by analyzing wave records measured at two or more locations using a least squares method. It can be applied to both regular and irregular waves. To examine its performance, numerical tests are made for waves propagating on quiescent or flowing water. In some cases, to represent the signal noise and measurement error, white noise is superimposed on the numerically generated wave signal. For all the cases, good agreement is observed between target and estimation.     

Scattering of obliquely incident water waves by partially reflecting non-transmitting breakwaters

In the present paper, analytic solutions are derived for scattering of water waves obliquely incident to a partially reflecting semi-infinite breakwater or breakwater gap. In order to examine the correctness of the derived solutions, they are compared with the solutions derived by McIver (1999) and Bowen and McIver (2002) for a semi-infinite breakwater and a breakwater gap, respectively, in the case of perfect reflection. The derived analytic solutions are used to investigate the effect of reflection coefficient of the breakwater and wave incident angle upon the tranquility at harbor entrance. The tranquility is deteriorated by the reflected waves as the reflection coefficient increases and as waves are incident more obliquely.     

Tests and Applications of An Approach to Absorbing Reflected Waves Towards Incident Boundary

If the upstream boundary conditions are prescribed based on the incident wave only, the time-dependent numerical models cannot effectively simulate the wave field when the physical or spurious reflected waves become significant. This paper describes carefully an approach to specifying the incident wave boundary conditions combined with a set sponge layer to absorb the reflected waves towards the incident boundary. Incorporated into a time-dependent numerical model, whose governing equations are the Boussinesq-type ones, the effectiveness of the approach is studied in detail. The general boundary conditions, describing the down-wave boundary conditions are also generalized to the case of random waves. The numerical model is in detail examined. The test cases include both the normal one-dimensional incident regular or random waves and the two-dimensional oblique incident regular waves. The calculated results show that the present approach is effective on damping the reflected waves towards the incident wave boundary.     

Separation of incident and reflected waves over sloping bathymetry

An existing 2D method for separating incident and reflected waves over a horizontal bed [Frigaard, P., Brorsen, M., 1995. A time domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves. Coastal Eng., 24, 205–215.] is modified to account for normally incident linear waves propagating over a bed with arbitrary 2D bathymetry. Linear shoaling is used to determine the amplitude and phase change between two measurement positions; thereafter the existing technique can be applied. Comparisons between the existing and modified methods are made using numerically simulated data. Errors in the reflection coefficient are found to be small for large reflection coefficients, but may become large if reflection is low. However, if an accurate assessment of the amplitude of the incident and reflected wave trains is required, the bathymetry must be accounted for in order to avoid significant errors (up to 90% for cases considered).     

Momentum balance in shoaling gravity waves: Comment on ’shoaling surface gravity waves cause a force and a torque on the bottom’ by K. E. Kenyon

In a recent paper, Kenyon (2004) proposed that the wave-induced energy flux is generally not conserved, and that shoaling waves cause a mean force and torque on the bottom. That force was equated to the divergence of the wave momentum flux estimated from the assumption that the wave-induced mass flux is conserved. This assumption and conclusions are contrary to a wide body of observations and theory. Most importantly, waves propagate in water, so that the momentum balance generally involves the mean water flow. Although the expression for the non-hydrostatic bottom force given by Kenyon is not supported by observations, a consistent review of existing theory shows that a smaller mean wave-induced force must be present in cases with bottom friction or wave reflection. That force exactly balances the change in wave momentum flux due to bottom friction and the exchange of wave momentum between incident and reflected wave components. The remainder of the wave momentum flux divergence, due to shoaling or wave breaking, is compensated by the mean flow, with a balance involving hydrostatic pressure forces that arise from a change in mean surface elevation that is very well verified by observations.