Internal tides and sediment movement on Horizon Guyot,Mid-Pacific Mountains

Internal tidal currents are the likely cause of erosional features such as current ripples, sand waves, and truncated bedding horizons on the sediment cap of Horizon Guyot. Current meter data obtained over a 9 month period in 1983–1984 at about 213 m above the guyot show that the tidal currents are anomalously strong for mid-oceanic depths, probably the result of topographically induced generation of internal tidal waves. An analysis of the initiation of motion of the foraminiferal sand by the internal tidal currents indicates that these currents, particularly during the months of March–May, are likely to transport the surficial sediment and generate the observed bedforms.     

Coastline sand waves on a low-energy beach at “El Puntal” spit, Spain

Coastline sand waves have been observed at “El Puntal” spit, located on the north coast of Spain. The spit has been monitored by an Argus video system since 2003 and the formation and destruction of sand waves has been observed. Coastline data from the video images are analyzed by means of principal components analysis, obtaining a mean sand wave length of 125–150 m and a maximum amplitude of ≈ 15 m. It is also observed that sand waves reach their maximum amplitude at about 15 days. No propagation of these sand waves is noticed during the approximately two-month-long events analyzed. Sand wave formation and evolution are examined in relation with the prevailing local wave conditions during that period. Incident waves at the west end of the spit approach from the east–northeast, with a very high angle with respect to the shoreline. Field observations suggest that sand waves may result from an instability in alongshore sediment transport caused by moderate-energy waves with a high-angle incidence.     

Stability of a sand spit due to dredging in an adjacent creek

The Jatadharmohan creek lies between Mahanadi and Devi Rivers along the Orissa coast and it is separated from the sea by an elongated sand spit. It was proposed to mine a volume of 15×10⁶ m³ of sand from the creek for land filling, but maintaining the spit intact. For this, the stability of sand spit is studied with different criteria. The results confirm that the creek mouth is a near permanent zone of deposition. The model results obtained for various depth scenarios show that the magnitude of currents would increase considerably when depth is increased by 7.0 m and marginally for further increase in depth by 10.0 m. Accordingly, a dredging scheme has to be designed without affecting the spit stability. Considering the existing hydrodynamics in the creek system, it is recommended that a bed slope of 1:6 (9.5°) be maintained during dredging, which is much less than 13.75°—the evaluated critical slope at the site when seepage flow is parallel to the bed slope. It is observed during monitoring that the creek is very productive, and the sand spit is totally intact.     

Characteristics of resuspended sediment from Georges Bank collected with a sediment trap

A sediment trap was deployed 3 m from the bottom at a water depth of 62 m on the southern flank of Georges Bank (41°02·2′N, 67°33·5′W) from 30 September 1978 to 10 March 1979 to qualitatively determine the size of sediments resuspended from the bottom by winter storms and to determine if seasonal changes in the phytoplankton could be observed in the trapped sediment.Bulk X-ray analyses of the trapped sediment showed layers of distinctly different textures preserved in the collection vessel. The median grain size of sampled layers ranged from 2·7 to 6·5 φ (fine sand to silt), but all layers contained a pronounced mode in the 3 φ (fine sand) range. Nine layers containing relatively large amounts of sand were present. The sand content was 75% in the coarest layers and about 32% in the fine layers. The median grain size of bottom sediments at the deployment site was considerably coarser than the trap samples, although the dominant grain size was also 3 φ.Average bottom-current speeds during the deployment period were about 30 cm s^?1 with a range of 10 to 50 cm s^?1. Bottom stress, computed from the observed currents and waves, suggest that 11 storms caused sufficient stress to resuspend 3 φ-sized sediments, in good agreement with the nine layers of relatively coarse sediments collected in the trap. Surface waves had to be included in the calculation of bottom stress because the bottom currents alone were insufficient to cause the resuspension of 3 φ-sized sediment.The trapped sediments contain numerous diatoms and coccoliths that are typical of late fall and winter assemblages. No clear seasonal difference in the flora was noted among sampled layers, probably due to the large influx of resuspended material and a reduced primary flux during this period. An undescribed species of Thalassiosira (G. Fryxell, personal communication), and siliceous scales of unknown systematic position were observed at all levels.     

From and migration of sand waves in a large estuary,Long Island Sound

Sand waves occur in eastern Long Island Sound with heights up to 4 m and lengths to 100 m. The waves do not form if either more than 10% mud or 12% coarse sand is present in the sediment. Mud suppresses wave formation by increasing the cohesion of the sediment. Sand-wave shape is independent of the water depth, d, provided the sand-wave height, H, is smaller than 0.86 d^1.19. Both symmetric and asymmetric wave forms are present. Observation of the migration of sand waves by repeated bathymetric surveys indicates a net sand flux greater than 0.01 cm³ cm^?1 sec^?1 in the direction faced by the steep slopes of the waves (i.e. westward, into the Sound). Under this sand flux, waves more than 30 cm high will not be measurably altered by a reversal of the semidiurnal tidal current.     

Long-period waves in the vicinity of Onagawa Bay (I)

To investigate the response characteristics of a bay to tsunamis, field measurements of long-period waves have been carried out at Onagawa and Okachi Bays, both of which face the Pacific Ocean in northern Japan. In Onagawa Bay, the observed transfer function is in good agreement with the prediction based on the one-dimensional numerical model, in the period range larger than about 15 minutes. The response of shorter periods seems to be influenced by the two-dimensionality of the bay. The oscillations within Onagawa Harbor are also discussed with respect to the relative amplitude and phase at two stations inside the harbor and it is estimated that the reflection coefficient at the waterfront is about 0.7. In Okachi Bay, the oscillations in the period range larger than about 10 minutes could be explained by a Y-shaped model of the bay. The dominant oscillations offshore of these two-bays are found to be the mode with the motion predominantly in the direction normal to the shelf orientation, and the estimated power spectral density of incoming waves in deep water varies asf ^–2,f being the frequency. The waves of lateral modes, such as edge waves on the shelf, are small and of minor importance to generate bay oscillations of longer periods.     

厦门湾口外近岸陆架区海底沙波发育特征

利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响。结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10~60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°~1°;平面上沙波区呈一系列NW-SE向条带状坡地,波脊呈线性或新月形,波脊轴线为SW-NE方向,沙波波长为120~800 m,波高2~12 m,沙波指数较大(>30)。地震剖面显示,波形形态主要分为三类:近对称性沙波、非对称性沙波及叠合沙波。近对称性沙纹的波高较大,沙波指数小;非对称性沙波的波长较长,沙波指数大;稳定沙波经后期水流“改造、激活”形成叠合沙波。砂含量较高,沉积物类型以砂、粉砂质砂及砂质粉砂为主,多为细砂—中砂。厦门湾口外的近岸陆架区水动力较强,流系复杂,总体受浙闽沿岸流、南海表层流和黑潮分支的影响。本区为不正规半日潮,流速为0.3~0.7 m/s,落潮流以S向为主,涨潮流向以NNE向为主,潮流作用对沙波的发育和改造起重要影响。     

杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段近岸滩槽冲淤演变分析

以杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段边滩及海床为研究区域,利用1989—2014年实测及海图资料分析岸滩断面地形变化和岸段冲淤变化。结果表明:在该研究时段,岸段存在长期稳定的冲刷深槽;近岸海床的冲淤表现出“波动性”,5 m等深线(2014年)以浅区以淤积为主,5 m等深线以深冲淤更迭,1989年以来总体呈现冲刷态势。长江入海泥沙量变化为该岸段发生侵蚀/淤积的影响因子之一,台风大浪及海床侵蚀/淤积波的移动导致海床冲淤复杂化。     

Interannual Variations of Sea Level at the Nansei Islands and Volume Transport of the Kuroshio Due to Wind Changes

Interannual variations of sea level at the Nansei Islands and volume transport of the Kuroshio during 1967–95 are calculated by integrating variations carried by windforced Rossby waves. Effects of eddy dissipation and ocean ridges are considered. Ridge effect is inferred by comparing between the calculated and observed sea levels. The calculation is satisfactory to sea levels and Kuroshio transport for the whole period. They are mostly caused by Rossby waves forced by wind and modified by the ridges, and are due to barotropic wave primarily and the first baroclinic wave secondly. The calculated Kuroshio transport well represents variations of several-year scales with maximums in respective duration of the large meander (LM) of the Kuroshio, as well as bi-decadal variation that transport was small during the non-LM period of 1967–75 and large during the LM-dominant period of 1975–91. Mean volume transport of the subtropical gyre is estimated at 57 Sv (1 Sv = 10⁶ m³s^–1) and divided by the Nansei Shoto Ridge into those of the Kuroshio in the East China Sea (25.5 Sv) and a subsurface current east of this ridge (31.5 Sv). The Subtropical Countercurrent and a southward deep current east of the Izu-Ogasawara Ridge are estimated at 16 Sv and 7 Sv, respectively. The calculated transports of the Kuroshio and other subtropical currents reach maximums at every El Niño event due to strong excitement of upwelling barotropic Rossby wave.     

Side-scan sonar investigation into temporal variation in sand wave morphology: Helwick sands,Bristol Channel

The morphology and mobility of bedforms within a sand wave field having a water depth of 30 to 40 m have been studied by side-scan sonar surveys at different tidal stages and under various wave climates. Large sand waves with heights of 4 to 7 m retained their orientation throughout the survey period, Small sand waves with heights less than 2 to 3 m changed their height over a tidal cycle and their location (relative to larger sand waves) between surveys. The maximum change appeared to be related to ebb current acceleration. Megaripple wavelengths were reduced under surface wave action.     

Volume Transport Variability Southeast of Okinawa Island Estimated from Satellite Altimeter Data

A nine-year-long record of the northeastward volume transport (NVT) in the region southeast of Okinawa Island from 1992 to 2001 was estimated by an empirical relation between the volume transport obtained from the ocean mooring data and the sea surface height anomaly difference across the observation line during 270 days from November 2000. The NVT had large variations ranging from −10.5 Sv (1 Sv ≡ 10⁶ m³s⁻¹) to 30.0 Sv around its mean of 4.5 Sv with a standard deviation of 5.5 Sv. This large variation was accompanied by mesoscale eddies from the east, having a pronounced period from 106 to 160 days. After removal of the eddy, NVT was found to fluctuate from 2 Sv to 12 Sv with a quasi-biennial period.     

Changes in the hydrography of Central California waters associated with the 1997–98 El Niño

Oceanographic conditions off Central California were monitored by means of a series of 13 hydrographic cruises between February 1997 and January 1999, which measured water properties along an oceanographic section perpendicular to the California Coast. The 1997–98 El Niño event was defined by higher than normal sea levels at Monterey, which began in June 1997, peaked in November 1997, and returned to normal in March 1998. The warming took place in two distinct periods. During June and July 1997, the sea level increased as a result of stronger than normal coastal warming below 200 dbars and within 100 km of the coast, which was associated with poleward flow of saltier waters. During this period, deeper (400–1000 dbar) waters between 150–200 km from shore were also warmed and became more saline. Subsequently, sea level continued to rise through January 1998, mostly as a result of the warming above 200 dbars although, after a brief period of cooling in September 1997, waters below 200 dbar were also warmer than normal during this period. This winter warm anomaly was also coastally trapped, extending 200 km from shore and was accompanied by cooler and fresher water in the offshore California current. In March and April 1998, sea level dropped quickly to normal levels and inshore waters were fresher and warmer than the previous spring and flowed southward.The warming was consistent with equatorial forcing of Central California waters via propagation of Kelvin or coastally-trapped waves. The observed change in heat content associated with the 1997–98 El Niño was the same as that observed during the previous seasonal cycle. The warming and freshening events were similar to events observed during the 1957–58 and 1982–83 El Niños.     

Inorganic carbon in the central California upwelling system during the 1997–1999 El Niño–La Niña event

Sea surface pCO₂ was monitored during 49 cruises from February 1997 to December 1999 along a section perpendicular to the central California Coast. Continuous measurements of the ocean–atmosphere difference of pCO₂ were made on a mooring in the same region from July 1997 to December 1999. The El Niño/La Niña cycle of 1997–1999 had a significant influence on local ocean–atmosphere CO₂ transfer. During the warm anomaly associated with El Niño, upwelling was suppressed and average sea surface pCO₂ was below atmospheric level. High rainfall and river runoff in the late winter and early spring of 1998 produced areas where pCO₂ was depressed by as much as 100 μatm. A flux ranging from 0.3 to 0.7 mol C m⁻² y⁻¹ from the atmosphere into the ocean was estimated for the El Niño period from wind and ΔpCO₂ data. Temperatures and upwelling returned to near normal in the summer of 1998, but a cold anomaly developed during autumn of that year. Temperature and pCO₂ data indicate that upwelling continued throughout much of the 1998–1999 winter and intensified significantly in the spring of 1999. During strong upwelling events, the estimate of ocean to atmosphere flux approached rates of 50 mol C m⁻² y⁻¹. The estimate for the average CO₂ flux from July 1998 to July 1999 was 1.5–2.2 mol C m⁻² y⁻¹ from the ocean to the atmosphere. While the flux estimate for the El Niño time period may be applicable to a larger area, the high ocean to atmosphere fluxes during La Niña might be the result of sampling near a zone of intense upwelling.     

Sediment segregation by biodiffusing bivalves

The selective processing of sediment fractions (sand and mud; >63 μm and ≤63 μm median grain size) by macrofauna was assessed using two size classes of inert, UV-fluorescent sediment fraction tracers (luminophores). The luminophores were applied to the sediment surface in 16 m² replicated plots, defaunated and control, and left to be reworked by infauna for 32 days. As the macrofaunal assemblage in the ambient sediment and the control plots was dominated by the common cockle Cerastoderma edule, this species was used in an additional mesocosm experiment. The diversity, abundance and biomass of the defaunated macrobenthic assemblage did not return to control values within the experimental period. Both erosion threshold and bed elevation increased in the defaunated plots as a response to the absence of macrofauna and an increase in microphytobenthos growth. In the absence of macrobenthos, we observed an accretion of 7 mm sediment, containing ca. 60% mud. Image analysis of the vertical distribution of the different luminophore size classes showed that the cockles preferentially mobilised fine material from the sediment, thereby rendering it less muddy and effectively increasing the sand:mud ratio. Luminophore profiles and budgets of the mesocosm experiment under “no waves–no current” conditions support the field data very well.     

Depth of activation on a mixed sediment beach

The relationship between wave height and depth of sediment activation is evaluated on an estuarine beach to determine whether activation depth is less in pebbles than sand. Rods with washers were used to monitor three excavated beach plots filled with (1) pebbles with mean grain size of 11.5 mm; (2) sand and granules; and (3) sand, granules and pebbles. Plots were monitored for 26 events over 27 days. Significant wave heights ranged from 0.18 to 0.40 m and activation depths from 0.02 to 0.12 m. Activation depths in the pebble plot were less than the other two plots when waves reworked sediment not activated during previous tidal cycles. Proportionality coefficients for activation depth to wave height, when net change was < 0.02 m, were 0.24 in the pebble plot and 0.30–0.31 in the other plots when experimental fill sediments remained and 0.22 to 0.23 in all three plots over the entire monitoring period, which included activation of newly deposited native sediment. Results suggest that for similar wave heights, activation depths in pebbles is lower than in sand, granules and pebbles or sand and granules, but once waves have reworked the sediment there is little difference in activation depths.     

Fluid expulsion features associated with sand waves on Australia’s central North West Shelf

Multibeam swath bathymetric data collected in 95–120 m water depth on Australia’s North West Shelf revealed two distinct populations of sand waves: a laterally extensive, low-amplitude composite form comprising superimposed dunes and ripples, and a laterally restricted form which has unusually high bedform heights and slopes. These large subaqueous sand waves comprise bioclastic ooid/peloid sand. Significantly, evidence of seabed fluid flow was detected in association with the high-amplitude sand waves. This evidence includes seabed pockmarks approximately 2–15 m in diameter imaged with side-scan sonar, tubular and massive carbonate concretions dredged from the seabed, and potential active venting of a fluid plume from the seabed observed during an underwater camera tow. Molecular and isotopic analyses of carbonate concretions collected from within pockmarks associated with the high-amplitude sand waves indicate that the fluids from which they precipitated comprise modern seawater and are not related to thermogenic fluids or microbial gases. The fluid flow is interpreted to be driven by macrotidal currents flowing over the relatively steep slopes of the high-amplitude sand waves. Pockmarks and carbonate concretions then develop where the interstitial flows are confined and focused by subsurface ‘mounds’ in a shallow seismic reflector.     

The Rossby wave as a key mechanism of Indian Ocean climate variability

We analyze the time-longitude structure of composite cases from model-assimilated ocean data in the period 1958–1998, following on from earlier work by Huang and Kinter (J. Geophys. Res. 107(C11) (2002) 3199) that studied east–west thermocline variability in the Indian Ocean. Our analysis focuses on the Rossby wave signal along the thermocline ridge in the tropical SW Indian Ocean (10°S, 60–80°E), where wind stress curl is important. Anomalous winds in the equatorial east Indian Ocean force successive Rossby waves westward at speeds of 0.1 m s⁻¹±30%. With a wavelength of 7000 km, the period of oscillation is in the range 1.9–5.2 years. The Indian Ocean Rossby wave is partially resonant with the global influence of the El Nino–Southern Oscillation, except during quasi-biennial rhythm. The presence of the Rossby wave offers potential predictability for east–west atmospheric circulation systems and climate that affect resources in countries surrounding the Indian Ocean.     

Artificial beach growth for breakwater protection at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island, New Zealand

The paper concerns beach growth by trapping longshore drift to form a protective beach seaward of the principal “weather” breakwater at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island. This “spending beach” concept was aproached by evaluating downdrift extension and considerable progradation of an existing accumulation at South Beach which is a product of harbour development since 1879 and which was held in quasi-stability by ongoing extractions of the net surplus littoral drift of coarse sands and gravels (averaging 60,000 m³ yr⁻¹).A one-line model was adapted from sand beach conditions and scaled to the morphology and processes of the mixed sand and gravel beaches at Timaru. Calibration of the model was performed from related research into the rates and temporal pattern of longshore drift on South Beach. A hundred year history of shoreline progradation against the harbour structures was utilised to verify the model.The concept offered a high benefit: cost ratio for a small engineering intervention provided shoreline forms and behaviour could be specified sufficiently for planning, statutory consent, engineering, economic and environmental impact assessment purposes. A 150 m long spur groin near the harbour entrance would trap about 12 ha of sand and gravel in about 8 years. The new shore would be better aligned to the dominant swell and storm waves than the present shore, so reducing long term net drift rates.Construction of the scheme commenced in May 1987 and progress to date is detailed.     

Sand suspension and transport on the Middelkerke Bank (southern North Sea) by storms and tidal currents

Estimates have been made of the suspended sand transport at two sites on the Middelkerke Bank, in the southern North Sea, from suspended sand profiles and current meter measurements over a period of approximately 40 days. Sand resuspension was mainly due to waves while transport was dominated by a few hours when large waves coincided with peak flood currents. Soulsby's relationships for the stress under combined currents and waves were found to be poor predictors for the observed near-bed concentrations; the mean stress, , predicting 45% of the variance while the maximum stress, , predicted just 15%, and overestimate the effects of the waves. When the influence of the stress due to the waves is reduced, the variance explained increases to 67%. The sand transport rate on the steep slope of the bank was 10 times that of the southern end, and was up-slope at 25° to the bank axis, in the direction of the major axis of the tidal ellipse. The transport on the steep slope was mainly in the size range 100–140 μm which did not occur in any significant proportion in samples of the sea bed at that site but was advected from deeper water to the southeast. Excluding this finer component the transport rates of coarser sand (>200 μm) at the two sites were similar over the 40-day period. The up-slope transport during storms suggests that waves play an important part in the bank maintenance and are not simply the mechanism which prevents the continual growth of the sand bank due to asymmetrical transport by the tidal currents alone. The transport rates are consistent with a time-scale of 10²–10³ years for the formation of the Middelkerke Bank.     

Static stability of submerged partial revetment structures under regular and irregular waves

Physical models of submerged partial revetment structures were built on natural beach sand with a diameter of 0.35 mm and specific gravity of 2.63. The armor units, the diameter and specific gravity of which varied in the range of 8.5–67.95 mm and 1.81–2.77 respectively, were placed only on wave breaking areas. A series of experiments has been conducted on the conditions of different armor units and different wave characteristics using regular waves and irregular waves. Based on the experimental data, the effects of wave height, wave period, diameter and specific gravity of armor units, water depth in the channel, and wave types on static damage of given structures are assessed. Some empirical formulas have been suggested through regression analysis to describe static stability and stability number of submerged partial revetment structures under pure regular waves, pure irregular waves, and regular–irregular waves. The suggested formulas compared with Van der Meer’s (1988) formulas and some differences have occurred because of differences among revetment types and test conditions; therefore, proposed formulas give reasonable results for the test conditions used.