波谱仪调制功率谱估计算法性能的仿真研究

基于星载波谱仪海浪方向谱探测原理，仿真了不同海况、风速下的海浪波谱仪接收信号，并采用周期图法、Welch法、AR模型法以及最小方差法共4种不同的调制谱估计方法反演出海浪谱，比较各种调制谱估计方法的海浪方向谱反演性能。仿真结果表明:对于一定方位向下的一维海浪谱反演，不同调制谱估计方法反演海浪谱性能优劣没有绝对的顺序。对于二维海浪谱反演，在成长中海浪条件下周期图法反演性能最差，其他3种方法的反演性能没有绝对优劣顺序；对于成熟风浪，最小方差法在积分能量误差、有效波高误差两个指标上的反演性能最好，在主波波向、主波波长误差上，周期图法反演性能最差，其他3种方法没有绝对优劣顺序。在涌浪条件下，AR模型法反演性能优于其他3种方法。在不同海况下，随着波谱仪中心入射角的下降，反演性能会下降。基于这些仿真结果，本文推荐最小方差法作为充分成长海浪的海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法，AR模型法作为涌浪海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法。     

基于格子Boltzmann方法的斜坡堤越浪数值模拟研究

准确确定越浪量对于斜坡堤设计有重要意义。利用格子Boltzmann方法(LBM),并采用主动吸收式速度入口造波、出流边界消波、VOF方法追踪自由表面以及静态Smagorinsky模型模拟紊流运动,建立二维数值波浪水槽,对光滑斜坡堤上规则波与不规则波越浪进行数值模拟。模拟结果与试验值及其他数值模型结果比较表明,二维LBM数值波浪水槽具有模拟斜坡堤越浪的能力,但对于破碎较为剧烈的越浪过程模拟,该模型还存在一定的不足,未来可从提高自由表面模型精度等方面进一步改善其性能。     

应用Boussinesq方程对由航道开挖所造成水深变化对波浪传播所产生的异常波况的数值研究

应用Boussinesq方程采用有限差分法建立了非线性数值波浪模式，并应用该模式对由航道开挖所造成水深变化对波浪传播产生的异常现象进行了数值模拟研究。从结果来看这种异常波浪局部增大现象是由于入射波与航道夹角过小，使波浪无法折射入航道，而在航道两侧反射叠加的结果。因此说水深的变化对波浪产生的反射现象也是不可忽视的。     

一维全非线性Green-Naghdi水波方程数值模型

建立了求解一维全非线性Green-Naghdi水波方程的中心有限体积/有限差分混合数值格式。采用结构化网格对守恒形式的控制方程进行离散和积分,界面数值通量采用有限体积法计算,剩余项则采用中心有限差分格式求解。其中,采用中心迎风有限体积格式计算控制体界面数值通量,并结合界面变量的线性重构方法,使其在空间上具有四阶精度,通过引入静压重构技术和波浪破碎指标使模型具备处理海岸水-陆动边界及波浪破碎的能力。时间积分则采用具有总时间变差减小(Total Variation Diminishing,TVD)性质的三阶龙格-库塔法进行。应用该模型对孤立波在常水深和斜坡海岸上的传播过程及规则波跨越潜堤传播的实验进行了数值模型研究,数值计算同解析解及实验数据吻合良好。     

Large Eddy Simulation for Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone

In this paper, (he large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads lo the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale mode! is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this pape     

A simple two-way coupling method of BEM and VOF model for random wave calculations

A numerical method, which combines the boundary element method (BEM) and the volume of the fluid method (VOF method), has been presented to solve wave–structure interactions; the intense wave motion at the proximity of the structure is modeled by the VOF method and the rest of the fluid region is modeled by the BEM. The combined method can considerably reduce the time-consuming VOF domain, and thus practically makes it possible to apply the VOF method for random wave calculations, in which long time computations are usually required to obtain statistically meaningful results, and therefore the use of the single-VOF model often becomes prohibitive in terms of computational time and storage memories. A VOF model CADMAS-SURF, which is based on SMAC scheme and had been constructed by a number of VOF researchers in coastal engineering in Japan, is used in the combined BEM–VOF model. The two-way coupling treatment, which enables us to deal with bidirectional wave propagations, which was originally given for the SOLA-VOF model by Yan et al. (2003a) and later improved by Kim et al. (2007), was modified for the SMAC scheme. The coupling treatments are described in detail in the paper. The validity of the combined BEM–VOF model was investigated by comparing the numerical results with the theoretical results for the propagations of Stokes 5th order waves and random waves.     

Wash Waves Generated by High Speed Displacement Ships

It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the required computing points. Variation of waterway bathymetry and nonlinearity in the far field cannot be included in a ship fixed process either. A coupled method combining a wave generation model and wave propagation model is then used in this paper to simulate the wash waves generated by the passing ship. A NURBS-based higher order panel method is adopted as the stationary wave generation model; a wave spectrum method and Boussinesq-type equation wave model are used as the wave propagation model for the constant water depth condition and variable water depth condition, respectively. The waves calculated by the NURBS-based higher order panel method in the near field are used as the input for the wave spectrum method and the Boussinesq-type equation wave model to obtain the far-field waves. With this approach it is possible to simulate the ship wash waves including the effects of water depth and waterway bathymetry. Parts of the calculated results are validated experimentally, and the agreement is demonstrated. The effects of ship wash waves on the moored ship are discussed by using a diffraction theory method. The results indicate that the prediction of the ship induced waves by coupling models is feasible.     

礁坪上波浪传播的数值模拟

本文基于具备间断捕捉能力的二阶全非线性Boussinesq数值模型,对规则波和随机波在礁坪地形上的传播变形进行了数值模拟。该模型采用高阶有限体积法和有限差分方法求解守恒格式的控制方程,将波浪破碎视为间断,同时采用静态重构技术处理了海岸动边界问题。重点针对礁坪上波浪传播过程中的波高空间分布和沿程衰减,礁坪上的平均水位变化,以及波浪能量频谱的移动和空间差异等典型水动力现象开展数值计算。将数值结果与实验结果对比,两者吻合情况良好,验证了模型具有良好的稳定性,具备模拟破碎波浪和海-岸动边界的能力,能较为准确地模拟波浪在礁坪地形上的传播过程中发生的各种水动力现象。     

Strength Analysis on Brace Structure for Semi-Submersible in Consideration of Wave Slamming

Slamming on bracings of column stabilized units shall be considered as a possible limiting criterion under transit condition based on the requirements in DNV-OS-C103. However, the wave slamming loads under survival condition were ignored for the strength analysis of the brace structures in many semi-submersible projects. In this paper, a method of strength analysis of brace structure is proposed based on the reconstruction and extrapolation of numerical model. The full-scale mooring system, the wind, wave and current loads can be considered simultaneously. Firstly, the model tests of the semi-submersible platform in wind tunnel and wave tanker have been carried out. Secondly, the numerical models of the platform are reconstructed and extrapolated based on the results of model tests. Then, a nonlinear numerical analysis has been conducted to study the wave slamming load on brace in semi-submersible platform through the reconstructed and extrapolated numerical model. For the randomness of wave load, ten subcases under each condition have been carried out. The value of the 90% Gumble distribution values of the ten subcases are used. Finally, the strength on brace structure has been analyzed considering the wave slamming. The wave slamming loads have been compared between the survival condition and transit condition with the method. The results indicate that wave slamming under survival condition is more critical than that under transit condition. Meanwhile, the wave slamming is significant to the structural strength of the brace. It should be overall considered in the strength analysis of the brace structure.     

A two-dimensional numerical wave flume based on SA-MPLS method

A spatially adaptive(SA) two-dimensional(2-D) numerical wave flume is presented based on the quadtree mesh system,in which a new multiple particle level set(MPLS) method is proposed to solve the problem of interface tracking,in which common intersection may be traversed by multiple interfaces.By using the adaptive mesh technique and the MPLS method,mesh resolution is updated automatically with time according to flow characteristics in the modeling process with higher resolution around the free surface and the solid boundary and lower resolution in less important area.The model has good performance in saving computer memory and CPU time and is validated by computational examples of small amplitude wave,second-order Stokes wave and cnoidal wave.Computational results also indicate that standing wave and wave overtopping are also reasonably simulated by the model.     

随机波作用下海床动态响应分析

真实的海洋波浪是随机的,而前人对海床的动态响应分析大都是选用线性波或者Stokes波理论,对海床的模拟大都采用Biot拟静力模型,忽略了流体速度及土体位移加速度的影响。联合使用Longuet-Higgins随机波模型(采用Jonswap谱)以及动力u-p形式的海床响应计算模型,使用COMSOL Multiphysics多场耦合软件的PDE模块输入方程进行有限元计算,得到随机波作用下整体海床动态响应结果。将随机波结果与一阶Stokes波和椭圆余弦波结果进行对比,并对渗透系数和饱和度进行参数分析,研究表明渗透系数和饱和度对于随机波作用下海床动态响应影响显著。     

强非线性规则波在防波堤上爬高公式研究

为了研究波浪非线性对爬高的影响,解决防波堤等工程设计的实际问题,通过对数学模型试验、物理模型试验、规范公式得到的防波堤波浪爬高对比分析,分析了非线性主要影响参数厄塞尔数、相对水深和波陡对波浪爬高的影响规律,指出规范公式计算时存在的缺陷,并对其计算公式、适用范围进行修正、拟合,得到了强非线性规则波浪爬高的计算方法,可适用于斜坡堤断面的波浪爬高计算,与物理模型试验和数学模型试验结果对比表明,新的波浪爬高计算公式具有较好的计算精度,研究结果可为防波堤等实际工程设计提供重要参考。     

一种利用浮标站资料改进海浪模式有效波高预报的方法

基于浮标站海浪历史数据,利用回归分析方法建立了海浪数值模式有效波高预报产品的一元二次回归方程订正统计模型。通过2017年7月1日-2018年10月10日期间业务试运行结果发现:订正方程能有效改善有效波高数值预报产品的预报精度,且预报时效越短订正效果越显著。其中,第6~11 h预报时效内的订正前后平均绝对误差值减小0.17~0. 241 m,第6~18 h预报时效内订正前后均方根误差减小幅度为0.103~0. 28 m。这说明应用订正统计模型对海浪模式输出产品进行订正,也是改进海浪模式预报准确率的一种有效途径。     

四叉树网格下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型研究

波浪是近岸海域关键的水动力因素之一。考虑到近岸地形复杂、波浪演化显著的特点,建立了四叉树网格体系下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型,采用有限体积法对模型进行数值离散,应用GPBiCG(m, n)算法求解离散后的控制方程。模型中根据波浪波长布局计算网格,生成多层次四叉树网格,对复杂计算域有较好的适应性,并且在离散和方程求解中无需引入形函数、不产生复杂的交叉项,节约了存储空间和计算时间。将模型成功应用于物理模型实验及Acapulco海湾的波浪场数值模拟,结果表明该模型能够准确、高效地模拟近岸波浪场,可为近岸波浪场的模拟提供一定的理论和技术支持。     

不规则波与开孔沉箱相互作用数值模拟

采用三步有限元法对N-S方程进行离散,同时借助CLEAR-VOF方法追踪流体自由表面,利用主动吸收式造波等手段改进了二维不规则波浪数值水槽,使得水槽中的波浪谱与目标靶谱吻合较好。进而建立了不规则波浪与开孔沉箱作用一种新的数值模式,分析研究不规则波作用下开孔沉箱的反射率,并与现有的物模结果和数模结果进行了对比,为不规则波与开孔沉箱作用问题的研究,探求了一种新的数值手段。     

Numerical analysis on random wave-induced porous seabed response

Research on the response of random wave on offshore structures has received great deal of attention of many researchers and engineers in the design of marine structures. Most previous investigations have been limited to the regular waves. In this paper, based on Longuet–Higgins random wave theory and finite element method, a numerical model for random wave-induced seabed response is established. The seabed is treated as poroelastic medium and characterized by Biot’s partly dynamic equations (u–p model). The JONSWAP spectrum is adopted in Longuet–Higgins model, which is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. Based on the numerical results, the effects of random wave on seabed response are investigated by comparing with the corresponding Stokes wave and cnoidal wave. Then, a parametric study is conducted to examine the effect of wave and soil characteristic on the seabed.     

Correlation of extreme waves and water levels using a third-generation wave model and a 3D flow model

A procedure to correlate extreme wave heights and extreme water levels in coastal waters using numerical models together with joint probability analysis has been proposed. A third-generation wave model for wave simulation and a three-dimensional flow model for water level simulation are coupled through the surface atmospheric boundary layer. The model has been calibrated and validated against wind, wave and water level data collected in the coastal waters of Hong Kong. The annual maximum wave height and the concomitant water level have been obtained by simulating the annual extreme typhoon event for 50 consecutive years. The results from bivariate extreme value analysis of the simulated data show that the commonly used empirical method may lead to underestimation of the design water level.     

A composite numerical model for wave diffraction in a harbor with varying water depth

A composite numerical model is presented for computing the wave field in a harbor. The mild slope equation is discretized by a finite element method in the domain concerned. Out of the computational domain, the water depth is assumed to be constant. The boundary element method is applied to the outer boundary for dealing with the infinite boundary condition. Because the model satisfies strictly the infinite boundary condition, more accurate results can be obtained. The model is firstly applied to compute the wave diffraction in a narrow rectangular bay and the wave diffraction from a porous cylinder. The numerical results are compared with the analytical solution, experimental data and other numerical results. Good agreements are obtained. Then the model is applied to computing the wave diffraction in a square harbor with varying water depth. The effects of the water depth in the harbor and the incoming wave direction on the wave height distribution are discussed.     

A composite numerical model for wave diffraction in a harbor with varying water depth

A composite numerical model is presented for computing the wave field in a harbor. The mild slope equation is discretized by a finite element method in the domain concerned. Out of the computational domain, the water depth is assumed to be constant. The boundary element method is applied to the outer boundary for dealing with the infinite boundary condition. Because the model satisfies strictly the infinite boundary condition, more accurate results can be obtained. The model is firstly applied to compute the wave diffraction in a narrow rectangular bay and the wave diffraction from a porous cylinder. The numerical results are compared with the analytical solution, experimental data and other numerical results. Good agreements are obtained. Then the model is applied to computing the wave diffraction in a square harbor with varying water depth. The effects of the water depth in the harbor and the incoming wave direction on the wave height distribution are discussed.     

Modeling of propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current

A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.