Wave driven alongshore sediment transport and stability of the Dutch coastline

The wave-driven alongshore sediment transport is commonly supposed to smooth out the irregularities on the coastline. However, it has been shown that waves approaching the coast with a high angle with respect the shore-normal can reverse that tendency and cause the rectilinear coast to be unstable [Ashton, A., Murray, A.B., Arnault, O., 2001. Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves. Nature 414, 296–300; Falqués, A., Calvete, D., 2005. Large scale dynamics of sandy coastlines. Diffusivity and instability. J. Geophys. Res. 110, doi:10.1029/2004JC002587]. The extended one-line coastline model presented in the latter paper is here applied to investigate the stability of the Dutch coast. The main aim is testing the hypothesis that the shoreline sand waves observed along this coast could be generated by such an instability. It is found that the Dutch coast has potential for instability. This is most prominent on the Holland coast, followed by the Delta coast and is very weak on the Wadden coast. Whether the instability actually occurs or not depends on the cross-shore bathymetric profile of the shoreline waves. Under the sensible assumption that the bathymetric perturbation is just a shift of the equilibrium beach profile, the Dutch coast is stable. In this case, the mean annual coastline diffusivity is evaluated and it is found to be typically about 0.010–0.015 m² s^− 1, that is, roughly smaller by a factor 2 than that predicted by the traditional one-line model. However, the Dutch coast may be unstable with respect to coastline waves with a maximum bathymetric signal at a few hundred meters from the coast. This is shown in one case where the shoals associated with the sand wave are inside the surf zone during moderate storm waves. Thus the sand waves could result from the cross-shore redistribution of the sand associated with an alongshore series of shoals and bed depressions generated by the alongshore transport in the surf zone. While the generation or not of such shoreline waves by this instability strongly depends on their profile, its propagation once they have been created is less sensitive and is well reproduced by the present model. It is explained why the propagation is to the NE along the Delta and Wadden coasts, why it is faster on the latter and why on the Holland coast there is no clear propagation direction.     

人工岛影响下的海滩修复对策研究——以海口西海岸为例

人工岛建设在缓解滨海人地矛盾的同时带来新的环境问题。本研究聚焦人工岛建设引起的岸滩侵蚀与泥沙分配失衡问题,以海口西海岸为例,建立GENESIS岸线演变模型,探讨人工岛影响下的海滩地貌演化机制,并在此基础上提出“循环养护”的海滩修复对策。主要研究结论为:①海口湾南海明珠人工岛对邻近海滩的影响以“岛后方淤积、两侧侵蚀”为显著特征,且两侧侵蚀热点区的响应幅度存在明显差异。五源河口至新国宾馆岸段侵蚀更为强烈的主导因素为物源匮乏与岸线形态外凸。②通过人工补沙与循环养护相结合的生态修复措施,可实现岸滩泥沙的合理分配与地貌的动态平衡,有效缓解人工岛引起的海岸侵蚀问题。本研究成果可为国内相似类型海岸的岸滩修复提供良好的借鉴意义。     

Alongshore Sediment Transport Near Tidal Inlets of Chilika Lagoon; East Coast of India

ABSTRACT

Chilika, a lagoon along the east coast of India, is undergoing transformation due to frequent shoreline change near inlet(s). Shoreline change near inlet includes change in position and shape of inlet, inlet channel length, and spit growth/erosion. These variable features of lagoon inlet(s) critically depend on alongshore sediment transport (LST) and discharge (water and sediment) from the lagoon to the sea. The LST and the processes responsible for sand spit growth/erosion, considered as important attributes of inlet stability, are the subject matter of the present investigation and hence the study assumes importance. The study includes integration of observational and modeling framework. Observations include nearshore wave, bathymetry, beach profile, shoreline and sediment grain size of spits while numerical modeling includes simulation of the wave using MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model and LST simulation using LITtoral DRIFT. The results indicate that the predominant wave directions as S and SSE, which induces round the year south to north alongshore transport with significant seasonal variation in magnitude. The estimated LST closely matches with previous studies near Chilika inlet and for other locations along the Odisha coast. Besides temporal variability, the study reveals spatial variability in alongshore transport near Chilika inlet and considers it as one of the important attributes along with northward spit growth for inlet migration/closure/opening.     

布容法则及其在中国海岸上的应用

布容（Ｂｒｕｕｎ）法则是预测海平面上升引起海岸侵蚀最早的方法也是最简单的方法。根据中国砂质和淤泥质海岸的情况,布容法则可定性地解释海平面上升与海岸侵蚀的关系,在满足它要求条件的海岸地段和发育时期,用它预测海岸侵蚀或许是可能的。但是,若不严格审查海岸环境和条件,把它作为海平面上升情况预测海岸侵蚀的普遍模式,有待更多的研究加以证明。     

岬间海滩泥沙输运趋势与剖面分形研究

根据1999年7月实测的粤东岬间海滩沉积与地形变化资料,采用沉积物输运概率模式(McLaren模型)对海滩沿岸泥沙运移趋势进行探讨。结果表明,在常波况条件下海滩沿岸泥沙向偏南方向运移,在高能条件下可能出现与常波况条件下相反运动的趋势。进一步利用分形分布模型研究了海滩剖面的分形性质,提出了岬间海滩剖面地形变化的短期分形预测模型。     

Forecast of coastal changes based on morphodynamical modeling

A new version of the prognostic model is suggested, which differs from the previous version by its structure and method for including long-term variables into the process of coastal modeling. A fundamental prerequisite of the model is the assumption of the quasistationary state of the coast at any arbitrary stage of its evolution. The displacement of the coast under the influence of external factors at given moment is predicted on the basis of the obtained equation for the balance of sediments. The model takes into account a number of properties of the coastline. In particular, the distinguished dependence of the coastline shape on the regime of sediment transport is used to calculate the gradient of the alongshore sediment flux. The model also uses the empirical dependence found earlier, which makes it possible to estimate the second most important component of the sediment balance for selected types of coasts — the cross-shore matter flux. Special attention is focused on adjustment of the model to Arctic conditions. The results obtained are illustrated by the example of forecasting the development of accumulative coasts of the Western Yamal. It is shown that the major part of the Sharapovy Koshki sand islands could disappear within the next 700 years due to erosion.     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。     

Beach response to a fixed sand bypassing system

Indian River Inlet is located at roughly the mid-point of the Atlantic coast of Delaware and connects the ocean to two Delaware inland bays. Jetties constructed in 1940 have maintained the inlet for navigation purposes but have also acted as a barrier to net northerly alongshore sediment transport causing downdrift erosion. A mobile, land-based bypassing system was initiated in 1990 in an effort to counteract this erosion. Beach profile data from 1985 (pre-bypassing) until 2008 are used to investigate the effect of the sand bypassing system on beaches adjacent to the inlet. The downdrift beach experienced horizontal shoreline erosion between 10 and 60 m during the pre-bypassing period but accreted 10–20 m during the bypassing period. The mean shoreline location on the updrift beach during bypassing is 10–20 m landward (erosion) of its position during the pre-bypassing period. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) amplitudes from analyses performed on mean-removed elevation surfaces during the periods of highest bypassed volume (average of 83% of design rate) showed that the influence of the bypassing system on the downdrift beach extends to about 1500 m of the inlet. An EOF analysis showed that different morphologic responses were evident following the initiation of bypass operations. Temporal variations of shoreline and beach morphology were correlated to the temporal variations in bypassing rates on the downdrift beach only. The downdrift beach response was greatest near the inlet for larger bypassing volumes. Correlation in these instances occurred with a roughly 1-year time lag suggesting that the beach quickly redistributes the bypassed sand. EOF amplitude and shoreline response are weakly correlated to bypassed volumes when the system bypassed smaller volumes (average of 56% of design rate) of sand suggesting that there is a minimum bypassing rate, regardless of yearly variability, below which the effect on the downdrift beach is obscured.     

荷兰人工育滩工程Sand Motor的经验与启示

海岸侵蚀已成为砂质海岸重要灾害之一,世界各国都致力于海滩防护。荷兰由于地势低洼,在护滩工程中进行大量尝试,于2011年在代尔夫兰海岸开展创新性人工育滩工程即Sand Motor,单个工程补沙总量达2.15×107 m3。持续监测结果显示,工程建成后的沙滩形态与模拟结果基本吻合,沙量损失速度低于预期。阶段性评价结果表明,Sand Motor通过波浪、海流等向海滩缓慢输沙,稳定海岸沙滩和海岸沙丘,具有防护效果显著、成本较低、使用寿命长、增加海岸利用等优点,值得我国借鉴。     

广西万尾岛金滩沿岸输沙计算与分析

依据CERC公式,年内代表浪向作用下,广西万尾岛金滩平直岸滩中部泥沙分别向东西两侧净输沙,意味着金滩中部有淘刷趋势而两端有淤积趋势,而实际上岸滩中部滩面长年基本稳定、未有明显侵蚀现象。分析认为公式计算成果反映的输沙特征定性仍然是正确的,岸滩能够维持稳定是因为还存在自海向岸的横向输沙补给沙源。当岸滩并非平直且足够长时,应完整分析纵、横向输沙才能更为合理地反映岸滩泥沙运动特征。     

A new model for predicting three-dimensional beach changes by expanding Hsu and Evans' equation

The empirical bay shape model proposed by Hsu and Evans in 1989 for predicting the static planform of a pocket beach is expanded to enable the calculation of three-dimensional beach changes on a pocket beach with a seawall. The original formulation was developed on the basis of a second-order regression analysis. Unlike the one-line model of shoreline changes, the model of Hsu and Evans does not require repeated calculations of the wave field and shoreline position, because it was derived on the assumption of null sediment movement within a pocket beach in static equilibrium, hence without the need of applying the continuity condition of total sand volume in the calculation. The expanded model proposed by the present authors satisfies the total sand budget on a pocket beach, by taking into account the concept of depth change due to longshore sand transport. Model tests were carried out and the new model was further applied to the beach changes at Kemigawa on the northeast of Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, as well as at Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. On both locations, seawall has been installed as countermeasures against beach erosion, where wave sheltering effect of the main breakwater and beach changes in front of the seawall has also been observed. With this expansion, the present model can be applied to predict the three-dimensional beach changes on a coast with seawall on a pocket beach.     

东海岛东北部砂质岸滩年度冲淤变化及沉积物运移分析

东海岛是全国第五大岛,其东部长达28km的海滩是"中国第一长滩"。近年来因海平面上升和人类开发,该海滩局部出现较为严重的海岸侵蚀。基于高精度GPS监测结果及表层沉积物粒度测试结果,使用GSTA趋势分析模型,研究了东海岛东北部砂质岸滩的季节性冲淤变化及沉积物运移趋势,探讨了海岸侵蚀机制。结果表明,研究区岸滩沉积物的运移主要受潮流的控制,以沿岸向北运移为主。研究区南部岸滩紧邻低滩灯塔形成的波影区,沉积物供应较少,岸滩以侵蚀为主;研究区北部沿岸流搬运的沉积物能从南侧得到补给,加之向岸运移的沉积物,岸滩多处于淤积状态。     

广西北海银滩侵蚀动力研究

广西北海银滩是一处典型的强潮海滩，以滩面宽阔、砂质纯白为特征，为当地的一处著名旅游景点。近年来银滩也出现了岸线后退、滩肩消失、沉积粗化等侵蚀迹象。为了研究银滩侵蚀的动力机制，本文对银滩海水浴场当前的滩面高程、坡度以及滩面后退距离特征进行了调查和分析。并基于2016?2018年间的滩面高程动态变化，分析了冬、春季风浪和台风期间水位、波浪特征与滩面侵蚀之间的关系，并进而探讨了最有可能造成银滩侵蚀的台风路径。研究表明，1985年以来的滩面最大后退距离为80 m，侵蚀造成海滩上部滩面坡度降低，使得海滩上部的剖面形态向上凸状转化。冬、春季节的风浪叠加高水位可能会造成一定程度的滩面侵蚀，并在海滩上部形成脊槽地貌，但是这种侵蚀会被夏季西南向涌浪导致的回淤所恢复。造成银滩侵蚀后退的主要原因是2003年以来风暴潮重现频率增加。发源于西太平洋，经海南岛北部或雷州半岛进入北部湾的台风可以导致显著的海岸增水，最易于引起强烈的海滩侵蚀事件。银滩东侧的渔港码头阻断了自东向西的泥沙沿岸净输运，也是加剧银滩侵蚀的重要因素。     

舟山岛马岙岸段海岸演变与水下岸坡冲淤动态

利用不同年份的水深地形资料进行冲淤计算,结合实测水文泥沙、现场岸滩沉积地貌观察、新老海堤分布位置及以往浅地层探测和考古等资料综合分析发现,岸滩地貌形态从大约距今7 000 a前的一个古基岩港湾经受细颗粒泥沙长期不断地充填、淤积转化为近乎平直的岸段.在自然和人类活动的共同作用下,近370 a来海岸线以5.3 m/a的速度向海推移,潮滩以0.25 cm/a的速率沉积.近40余年来水下岸坡平均冲淤速率为-3.8~2.4 cm/a,横向冲淤调整有类似砂质海岸剖面塑造的特性,泥沙经受了在横向剖面"上部微淤、下部微冲"和纵向总体"东侧微冲、中西部微淤"的交替重复调整过程,目前朝着"上部微淤、下部微冲"的均衡剖面调整方向发展.     

海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物与海滩稳定性分析

海滩是砂质海岸重要的沉积地貌单元,其沉积特征和稳定性对于海滩的开发利用与保护具有重要意义。本文根据海口湾西海岸海滩表层沉积物粒度数据,阐述了该区域海滩沉积物的时空分布规律,并通过对比滩面高程数据和水下地形数据分析了该区域的岸滩稳定性。结果表明：海口湾西海岸海滩处于滩面微蚀的轻度不稳定态,其岸外浅滩处于边坡侵蚀的轻度不稳定态。另外,根据波浪作用和泥沙来源进一步探讨了海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物动力机制及其海滩侵蚀的原因。     

厦门岛海滩剖面对9914号台风大浪波动力的快速响应

根据 9914号台风发生前后对厦门岛滨岸海滩剖面地形的重复测量结果及有关台风要素和潮位的实测资料 ,探讨了台风袭击厦门岛期间海滩的变形特征和侵蚀状态。分析得出 ,海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击普遍发生急剧变化。横向冲淤变形以东岸海滩为最剧烈 :滩肩蚀退可达 2 5m ;滩面呈上冲下淤 ,上段和滩肩的单宽冲蚀量达 30m3 /m ;下段单宽淤积量达 17m3 /m ;剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变。这种变形特点是在台风大浪波动力和潮位暴涨的双重作用下造成的。台风期间 ,沿岸输沙能力以北岸最高 ,南岸次之 ,东岸较低 ;且自南岸到东岸 ,随着沿岸输沙量减少 ,横向变形相应有增大的趋势。这是9914号台风以偏东方向袭击厦门的结果。表明不同方向海岸岸滩地形对同一台风大浪波动力作用具有不同响应特征。     

Budget of sediments and forecast of long-term coastal changes

A method for predicting the coast evolution based on the calculated estimates of the components of the sediment budget is discussed. The approaches outlined in a series of previous publications of the author [9, 10, 11] are further developed. The prerequisites and concepts used as the basis of the suggested method for forecasting are characterized. The sediment budget parameters under typical conditions are presented. The contributions of natural processes and the anthropogenic impact are compared. Different approaches for calculating the principal sediment budget components, including the cross-shore flux through the lower boundary of the coastal zone, the eolian flux of sand material through the upper limit of the coastal zone, and the alongshore sediment flux gradients, are considered. The examples of forecasting the development of coasts in the Baltic and Kara seas and the Sea of Okhotsk are given for the period from 100 to 500 years. The results obtained show that, in the case of a balanced budget of the sediments, the future behavior of the coast would be mainly governed by the variations in the sea level. This factor is capable of determining the changes in the coastline, whose recession and advancing would depend on the rate of the sea level rise. Under specific conditions, an enhanced sea level rise can trigger destructive processes (for example, the erosion of a coastal bar or the thermal abrasion of a cliff). In the case of a strong imbalance in the sediment budget, sea-level changes play a subordinate role.     

人类工程活动对秦皇岛海滩侵蚀及淤积的影响

秦皇岛地区旅游性海滩的侵蚀主要是人类所实施的以水库为主的河流水利工程而产生的海岸效应。在区域性海滩普遍遭受侵蚀状态下，沿海港口工程又通过三种不同形式第滩发育施以影响，其一是对沿岸泥沙流的拦阻，其二为在局部岸段形成完全或不完全波影区，其三为人工岬湾的形成，港工引成的海滩淤积体特征是海滩变宽、变缓及海滩砂细化。文中最后讨论了侵蚀性海滩向演化的发育空间问题。     

Rapid erosion of a small southern California beach fill

A winter storm eroded a small (160,000 m³) beach fill at Torrey Pines State Beach in southern California. The fill, constructed in April 2001, was a 600-m long flat-topped berm, extending from a highway revetment seaward about 80 m, terminating in a 2-m tall, near-vertical scarp. The size distributions of the preexisting and fill beach sand were similar (median ∼0.2 mm). A total of 56 cross-shore transects were surveyed between the revetment and 8 m water depth biweekly along 2.7 km of the beach centered on the fill area. During summer and fall, the incident significant wave heights measured 1 km offshore of the fill usually were below 1 m, the scarp was not overtopped, and the fill did not change greatly. The beach face alongshore of the fill accreted, consistent with the usual seasonal cycle in southern California. During a storm (3 m significant wave height) in late November, erosion began when wave uprushes overtopped the scarp and reached the relatively flat elevated fill, where the overwash flowed alongshore to initially small depressions that channeled the flow seawards. The offshore flow rapidly deepened and widened the channels, which maintained steep vertical faces and eroded by slumping. Thirty hours after the storm began, the shoreward end of the eroded channels had retreated to the highway revetment, leaving uneroded sand peninsulas protruding seawards ∼50 m from the revetment and elevated ∼1.75 m above the surrounding beach. Erosion of the beach adjacent to the fill was much less variable alongshore than within the fill region. During the next few days, the peninsulas eroded almost completely.     

Shoreline changes and beach-sand sorting along the northern Sinai coast of Egypt

 Changing shoreline positions along the Sinai coast of Egypt were determined by comparing aerial photographs and historical charts with present-day conditions. The analyses identify longshore patterns wherein erosion along a protruding stretch of the coast gives way to accretion in an adjacent major embayment. This pattern defines two coastal subcells consisting of source/sink couplets. There is a general correspondence between the mineral variation, grain sizes of beach sand, and the patterns of shoreline changes. Associated with erosion/ accretion shoreline change is a selective transport of different minerals according to their densities and grain sizes. Two heavy-mineral groups were obtained by applying Q-mode factor analysis on the heavy-mineral data. These two groups are influenced by transport processes, including sediment provenance from different sources: eroded Nile delta west of Sinai, relict sediments from the former Nile distributaries, and sediment supply by land valleys and from wind-blown sand. Received: 2 June 1995 / Revision received: 29 May 1996